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The Problem with the Gegeneration Phase - Markus Eder

The Problem with the Gegeneration Phase - Markus Eder
January 09, 2015 -  Markus Eder

The saying “Rest days are the best days!” is not everyone’s opinion. I often have a big problem with these days. Certainly, these days can be used for meaningful activities – immerse oneself in different cultures, work (only if you have to…), read, drink coffee, eat good food, relax or get mind and body greedy for the next climbing day. On the other hand, these days could also be used for climbing instead of not climbing… a hard decision! On a climbing trip, I usually stick to a 2-1-rhythm, which means 2 climbing days followed by one rest...

Being Strong is not Everything. - Markus Eder

Being Strong is not Everything. - Markus Eder
September 30, 2014 -  Markus Eder

Enable all power, crimpholds tight, grit your teeth, hold your breath–being strong. These are just a few of my secrets that help me to climb through the crux of hard routes. Maybe it is also the fact, that long downward movements with acceleration of 9.81 m/s²include a bit of uncertainty and I try to avoid this. The trip to the Peak District, England, showed me, that being strong is only half of the battle (meanwhile I already insist a the fact that power is the most important).

Recalibration - Markus Eder

Recalibration - Markus Eder
August 01, 2014 -  Markus Eder

I didn’t know what to expect from a deep water soloing trip to Portugal. Equipped with the information about cliffs at Ingrina and Sesimbra I took my seat in the airplane.  

"All in" - Markus Eder

"All in" - Markus Eder
May 18, 2014 -  Markus Eder

Heard the rumor that somebody has climbed the arête“ – I always have to think about this sentence of the Rocklands bouldering guidebook when I arrived at my project in Bad Ischl. The combination of this beautiful 25 meters long, overhanging arête and the rumor that Peter Thaler climbed this route 15 years ago, makes this line something special. Since the first ascent the one and only good hold for a rest broke and all the climbers who tried went away with without success. I always glanced at this route, when I went nearby but it seemed impossible. Last...

The Problems and Projects of Bishop - Markus Eder

The Problems and Projects of Bishop - Markus Eder
January 16, 2014 -  Markus Eder

After sunset the hot spring six miles south of Bishop is the meeting point for many climbers and also some non-climbers. As well as relaxing in the warm water also highly scientific discussions are held. So a dirt biker astonishing that: “What, do you call the rocks, you want to climb, problems? What a life if these are your only problems!”“Our boulders are problems for us! If we fall in love with a line, we have to try again and again to get on top. We put all our energy and thoughts in that climb.” So in addition...

Balcony Project 9a+ - Markus Eder

Balcony Project 9a+ - Markus Eder
November 29, 2012 -  Markus Eder

I haven’t climbed on this cliff for a long time. I’ve already done most of the good lines, all other projects are wet most of the time – an excuse can always be found. Stop – there is one route left: Klem Loskot’s balcony project!I’ve tried this route three years ago but back then I had no idea how the moves could be done. Klem hasn’t done it, so maybe it’s a little bit harder…After a DWS-trip to Mallorca in 2005 I lost contact with Klem, probably caused by his climbing break and my absence because of the university....


Bouldering in Norway - Markus Eder

Bouldering in Norway - Markus Eder
June 25, 2012 -  Markus Eder
Midnight sun, elks, stockfish and mosquitos – that is how I pictured Norway. Now, after...
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