After the bad weather hit Magic Wood, crushing my hopes of finishing off Practice of the Wild V15 (I’ve never been so close to a boulder, and not been able to finish it!), I was psyched to find a new project close to home. Cresciano provided the answer: The Dagger V14. I finished off The Dagger V14 today on my 3rd day of effort. So f***ing psyched! Very intense on the core and the toe-hooks.
Setting For The Best and Climbing With The Best: An Infinitely Complex World Seen From Both Sides of The Wall Over the past two months, I have had the opportunity to participate as both a route setter and competitor in the Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour. This professional climbing series—serving as one of the largest media platforms for competitive climbing and unparalleled production value in North America—has armed me with two powerful tools: perspective and humility.
Around 40 degrees. Forty-five percent humidity. Slight breeze. Leaves colored like fire. And little Rumney gremlins trolling around the forest. What does all this equal? Perfect conditions. I warmed up on a few boulders for about 30 minutes, walked over to B-Boy, and sent first try of the day. On previous attempts, I felt like a thousand pounds with a ball and chain attached to my ankles. Today, I felt really light–maybe the way Daniel Woods or Adam Ondra feel when they float out of bed in the morning. Either way, I had a great time climbing this...
Upon a quick perusal of these photos, you’ll see that–once again–conditions were absolutely atrocious over here in New England. Just another repulsive day; sweatier than my pits at an 8th grade dance, and even more humid than a Columbian drug-traffic jungle. Dare I mention the teradactyl sized mosquitoes that were feverishly hunting the boulder fields for dinner? Despite such a trying atmosphere, I was able to keep the weekend flowing along with another send: Busted Shadow.
Dr. Niels trys a climb at Diablo Caves and takes a fall from 75 feet up