During a two week stint of bad weather down in southern Utah, I decided to do a bit of side work, a couple odd jobs here and there. Between route setting and guest coaching for Momentum Climbing Gym's up and coming youth climbing team, I am now able to extend my desert adventures, due to some brief hustling for extra dough. Although I'm currently without wheels, I've been fortunate enough to receive rides without having to hitchhike or to do anything drastic. Now back in the holy land of endless rock, I've had a couple days of climbing.
First day, The Hurricave. So steep at times, it almost feels as if your climbing back down towards the earth. I teamed up with my good friend Joey Kindner. After a quick motivational chat, I succeeded at getting him psyched on busting out his Bosch drill and going to work on an old line I'd been visualizing for years. After 3 days of strenuous work, sweat and pain, a new 5.14+ project was born!!
40 feet of overhanging madness, leading to a rest on finger buckets, than directly into a V10/11 boulder problem consisting of 15 giant moves on small edges. Crazy foot sequences and awkward heel hooks makes your calves burn like raw bacon on a griddle! The excitement reached at the lip encounter is so gratifying. Looking back down the massive upside down wall you have just scaled is simply bliss!
Routes like this create countless, epic nights of chaotic dreaming. Fantasizing about movement, rock texture, the perfect line and success. This is what keeps me awake at night. This and Chipotle, Blue Cheese, Bacon Burgers from Chili's! With the ground deeply saturated from the previous 2 weeks of torrential rain, bouldering has been farthest back on my list. With the soft desert sandstone so fragile, after these rain quenching storms, one must be extremely careful by treading lightly or not at all. To the Sport climbs I go and in the caves I be, lingering, dodging the wetness."
- Isaac Caldiero