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The Canadian regional bouldering 2014 - Hans Christian Montenegro

The Canadian regional bouldering 2014 - Hans Christian Montenegro
June 11, 2014 - 

The regional bouldering was at altitude Gym. The competition format was 5 minutes “in” and five minutes “out” for five problems. The isolation zone started too early (6:45am). Generally, I think that is a good idea to start early in order to finish early too, but at 6:45 is too much. Also, I was the second climber for starting the problems then I did not have enough time to warm up properly. I only did some travers and two minutes later it was my turn for the first problem.



When I saw the problem one, I recognized a big movement in a roof. I said to myself “it is ok, I can do it”. Then, I did my first try and I did the big move, I was so happy at that moment than I did not realize that there where another big move after the bonus hold. I was not ready for that and I lost my focus. Then I fell in the middle of second big move. I tried two or three more times the problem but I did not the energy to get the first big move. The result was a sad climber, without focus and no top for this problem (only a bonus).

I took five minutes of rest, and then I was ready for the second problem. I read it and it looked too easy for this competition. I flashed it and I took almost 10 minutes of rest. The third problem seems very easy too. There was only a big balance move at the top of the problem. I fell one time getting the top and I did it by my second try.

The fourth problem was too hard for everybody, I did not get the bonus and nobody get the top. The last problem was relay too easy for a regional competition. I flashed it too.

Unfortunately, I got the 17th position (almost, all the position was played by tries).
I realized that this competition format (five in five out for qualification) is a harder job (for the route setter) than the scramble competition format. Indeed, this format demands more sharp work in order to separate the competitors.

Second option! In the afternoon, the competitors who did not make finals could do a scramble competition. Then I decide to participate and my objective was to do all the problems. I did all the problems (almost 54). The only one that I did not do was the fourth problem from the morning competition. I won this second competition.
Thanks for reading.


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