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My First V9 and a Trip to the Pollen Grains - Matt Grossman

My First V9 and a Trip to the Pollen Grains - Matt Grossman
My First V9 and a Trip to the Pollen Grains - Matt Grossman
My First V9 and a Trip to the Pollen Grains - Matt Grossman
February 11, 2014 -  Matt Grossman    

Over the Martin Luther King 3 day weekend a few of my teammates and I went to bishop. We climbed for 2 full days and had a lot of fun.

On the first day of the trip we went to the Sads and started the day in the Ice Caves. We did some traversing and sent Shazam V5 (6c+) as a warm-up, then started working our projects. Seth Rogers and I got on Water Hazard V9 (7c) and after a few tries we had both sent. It was my first V9! It flowed nicely for me and was a good route to check off of my tick list.

After that, I joined Nick Bradley in the Beef Cake part of the Ice Caves. He was working Beefy Gecko. He told me the beta on Beef Cake v10 (7c+) and I went to work. I was able to do all of the moves except for the big move to the jug before you go around the corner. After we worked in the Ice Caves for a while we headed over to the Pow Pow area. It was really crowded so we looked at some of the other climbs and decided to work on French Press V6 (7a+). That was short lived because Seth and I sent it quickly. It was really fun and took lots of patience and being very precise to send it. After that we headed back to Pow Pow V8 (7b+) for a while. I got all the way to the textured sloper after the cross move. Before the sun went down we went to slunk V9 (7c) and worked that for a while. Nick couldn’t work it because of his injured finger and there was a key mono that he couldn’t use. I got one hold before the finish but couldn’t send it.

On the second day we went to the buttermilks and started at Grandma and Grandpa Peabody.  After lunch I headed over to the Pollen Grains with Seth & Mirko. We started out on Suspended in Silence V5 (6c+). It’s a really cool route, that starts with a pretty big dyno and then has some mild moves up to some jugs and then finishes with some better jugs to the top. It went down pretty quickly for me so I decided to shoot video of Seth. He took a weird fall and ended up with a slightly sprained ankle.  He got the dyno and it was really cool, he stuck it one handed and held the huge swing then fell towards the top.  It sucked that he hurt himself because he is fun to climb with.

He ended up heading into town to ice his ankle and watch the 49er-Seahawk game with his dad.  Once he left, Mirko and I went to the Lidija boulders. We worked Cindy Swank V7 (7a+) and both got it after a few tries. Then we moved to Finder’s Fee V9 (7c). Mirko and I were working really well together on this route.  We traded high points and really motivated each other.  I almost stuck the crux but fell. He then got on and sent it, I tried it many times after that but just did worse and worse. It’s going to be a great project for next time. Just before it got dark, we stopped by Spectre v13 (8b) and worked it for a bit before going to dinner with everyone at the Pizza Factory.

I’m close on a lot of projects and looking forward to getting back on them.


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