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End of the Year Reflection - Kegan Minock

End of the Year Reflection - Kegan Minock
End of the Year Reflection - Kegan Minock
December 22, 2013 -  Kegan Minock    

2013 has brought so many good things that I thought I would talk about a few of them.


2013 was a huge year for me. So many events and people that made this year memorable for me.

In March, we were in Joe's Valley where I took down my project, As The Worm Turns (V11) and was able to complete a number of other double digit problems.

In April, I was fortunate to be able to compete at the CCS National Championship competition at On The Edge in Melbourne, FL where I took 2nd place.

In May, my girlfriend and I opened up the Pure Bouldering Gym in Colorado Springs and so far it has been going great. It has grown so much since we opened and we both are very thankful to our amazing members who make this place what it is.

This past summer I had stepped into new territory and established my own problem called Conscience Amputation at the Garden Of The Gods park.

These last new months feel like a blur or trying to balance school, climbing and life. It was very difficult at times and sometimes it felt like too much to handle. But here I am and I wouldn't change a thing. The semester ended last week and I am starting to enjoy my long awaited break until next semester. I was also excited to be able to attend all of the Five Ten shoe demos at all of the gyms in Colorado where I met Taylor. Taylor is a really cool guy and I always look forward to chatting with him at each gym we visit. Besides that, I was able to test out the new Team VXi's and I have to say, they are amazing. They fit me better than the "old" Teams and I am very psyched to climb in them.

At the beginning of December I was a part of the setting crew for the ABS Youth Regional Championship Competition where I got to hang out with and learn from some really cool people including Garrett Gregor, Kasia Pietras, John Gass and Paul Dusatko. It was amazing to watch some of these kids climb at the level that they do.

The highlight of the past few months has to be the closure of a project. I had tried William Shatner (V12) down in Newlin Creek Colorado a few times here and there earlier in the year but never thought it was attainable. Right around Thanksgiving, I really dedicated my time to do all of the moves and try to piece it together. After a few successful trips as well as a few not so successful sessions, the season was winding down to an end. I was lucky to get a beautiful day off of work so I headed down to the crik to try to establish some more muscle memory before winter set in. I pulled in to the parking lot alone and was a little discouraged. There was snow everywhere. nevertheless, I already drove the hour drive south to get there so I was going to climb. After the 20 minute hike (which was much appreciated despite strapping a few pads to my back, I got warm fast!) I had set my pads down and started to get my shoes on. Man was it cold. Warming up seemed to take forever. Finally I was at a point where I was able to preform at my optimal level. I had completed most of the moves but the third one. I just couldn't figure it out. I had watched all the videos I could find and had spotted a few people on it before but no beta seemed to work. After many failed attempts, something just clicked into place. I unlocked the move and set out to send. The problem sit starts with a right hand sloper and a left flat edge. The left hand bumps to a tiny crystal crimper followed by a right hand to a dead vertical flat one pad edge. Now the move that shut me down, do I throw a right heal? no no no, its a foot cross through to a decent edge. ok I got this. I pull in with my right hand as my left shoots up to another dead vertical sidepull 3/4 pad edge. Holy crap, I didn't fall. ok ive done these next moves a million times. The right heel hook locks into place and my left foot moves up to a smear of the wall. A huge move out right to a sloping edge that fits about 3 fingers comfortably (pictured). ok two moves left. my left foot jacks up high to the first crimp rail that my left hand went to. this was it, the last hard move. my left hand went up to yet another dead vertical sidepull full pad crimp and I didn't stick it. Laying there on the pad, I was upset at falling but excited at the same time. William Shatner was going to get sent today. TODAY! the day that was supposed to be a little session to retain some muscle memory so I could come back strong next season.

My next attempt was similar. everything clicked into place and before I knew it, I was at that same last hard move that I had fallen on just 15 minutes prior. I threw yet again to the left handed hold and let out a pretty awesome (if I do say so myself) and loud growl. I had stuck it! ok the deadpoint to the sloper jug and then its over. I jumped and held on. I couldn't believe it. I had done it. I had sent my project. I was on cloud 9 for the rest of the week. It was a great confidence booster. I completed my first V12 (Bambi) in November of 2012 after 7 sessions and hadn't done anything that hard all year. Now in the last week of November of 2013, I had done my second V12 in 4 session. It always feels good to see some progression. Hopefully I continue to get stronger and cant wait to see what 2014 holds for me.


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