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The Small Victories Can Be The Most Important - Kegan Minock

The Small Victories Can Be The Most Important - Kegan Minock
October 14, 2013 -  Kegan Minock    

As I was talking about in my last blog post, I have been chasing the elusive garden project. My last entry ended with hope of success during the following day. That was not the case. I was once again shut down on the same move that had stumped me during my first session. I decided that it was my beta that was not working and tried a few other possible sequences.

Once midday rolled around, it became way to hot for me to be able to hold the fat pinch, let alone cut feet and swing out. Sitting impatiently under the boulder, I waited for clouds. soon, a few dark clouds came in and I was back to work figuring out what other solutions were possible to this problem. After a few humorous attempts and even some close ones, I reach my final sequence and knew exactly what to do. I chalk up and took my seat at the starting crimper.

The first left move to the opposing sloper felt easy " this is it" I thought. The big bump out left to the pinch felt hard. Not because of the swing or the pinch itself, but the crimper start hold where my right hand was desperately trying to not let go of. I fell and instantly knew something was wrong. I looked down though I knew I probably shouldn't have. There it was, the first pad on the middle finger of my right hand was close to gone. Now im not talking it was sore or a small cut. I mean, at least two thirds of my skin had torn off, leaving a massive hole of fresh skin and blood. That was it. the day was over. No tape or super glue was going to fix that, so I packed my bags and left.

After a few weeks of healing and than strengthening my finger, I was back out there and knew what had to be done. I went over the beta so many times, I felt I could do it with my eyes closed. Brushing off the holds warming up. This was going to be the day. I pulled on and everything felt easy. I'm sure this happens to many people, but after trying all of these moves so many times and knowing exactly where my body needed to be, all of these moves that shut me down for a few sessions felt EASY. Before I knew it, I was at the top. I decided to call the boulder Conscience Amputation in memory of the massive flapper I got while working it and felt it was probably in the V9 range.

Now I am really excited to go out and find new boulders to work on rather than just trying to repeat the classics.

That's all for now!


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