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Finally Some Granite Again! - Martina Cufar

 
Finally Some Granite Again! - Martina Cufar
Finally Some Granite Again! - Martina Cufar
Finally Some Granite Again! - Martina Cufar
Finally Some Granite Again! - Martina Cufar
Finally Some Granite Again! - Martina Cufar
Finally Some Granite Again! - Martina Cufar
Finally Some Granite Again! - Martina Cufar
 
July 22, 2013 - 
 

The weather finally got better and warmer, so I took advantage of every possible day to go up on the altitude to climb in the granite of the Mont Blanc massive. No every day went as planned though; once there were 5 parties in front of us, then one day the cable car didn’t work, one day the mountain I chose was the only one in the clouds the whole day another day it was clear blue sky but freezing strong wind, not announced at all in the forecast..Well, climbing in the granite is not like going to the normal cliff, where you can climb also in the rain. Ou need a lot of patience. Even more in the peak tourist season in Chamonix, when the queue for the cable car is looong! That’s why I appreciated every day that everything went with the flow even more!

 

In the beginning of July we went with Nico back to his route in Grand Capuccin, Tresor du Romain; I wanted to see if I would find the solution for the boulder problem at the start of the Tommy 8a pitch. I was trying already when we opened it in 2010. First we were negatively surprised, because the two crucial bolts were missing! I can’t understand people who take the bolts away from this nice free line (aid line is on the right). You can’t protect with friends at this place. It took us an hour or more to replace the bolts with the one on the anchor, so we could continue. I was trying for more than hour, but unfortunately without success. The two crux moves are simply too far away. There’s another solution with the slopers on  the right, but they are always in the shade and I am not able to feel hold them when they are freezingly cold. Maybe one day when there will be really hot…I didn’t give up yet.

Last weekend I climbed together with Sylvie Drouillat;  for warming up we did one nice classic in the South Face of Aiguille du Midi, La contamine, 6c, 200m, and the next day a bit harder classic on the Trident de Tacul, Les Intouchables, 7b+, 250m.

The latter really deserves five stars! A beautiful line of the cracks from the bottom to the top, with one technical slab just under THE CRACK: a perfect splitter on a leaning tower. When opened it was bolted and graded 7c+, in the new topo it’s 7b+. That’s why I went with a huge respect in it and was surprised by good handjams. I imagine the climbers who graded it 7c+ didn’t know to jam, and they were

 

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