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V12 with a Broken Pulley - Hans Christian Montenegro

V12 with a Broken Pulley - Hans Christian Montenegro
June 22, 2013 - 

In the spring 2013, I went to Niagara Glen with some friends. It was my first time at this bouldering place. At the first moment, I didn’t have any expectation and I didn’t think that the park was so beautiful. I was lucky that my friend David invited me to go.  Now, I can not wait to come back... In this post, I will talk about the V12 problem that I did.  Next time, I will talk about the whole trip.

The first day, I was so exited because I was feeling in very good shape. But, something happened and everything changed. I didn't take good rests between the warm up problems that I did. So, my fingers became too tired. The worse thing was that I continued to push harder and harder.

The result was that two hours later, when I was trying a V10 with a small crimp and a small dyno, I broke the pulley of the left hand (annular finger). This situation arrived because I put too much pressure on the crimp. Then, I heard a weird noise and I felt my finger without force. I knew that something was wrong but I really wanted this V10. So, I continued and I finished the problem.

After that I could not crimp with the left hand. So, All my projects for the trip and the spring were gone to the garbage trash. I could not believe that my trip was a waste of time, money and energy. So, I tried to be positive. I decided to rest some minutes, I put tape on my finger and I tried a V12 close to the V10 problem that had broken my pulley (I know it was not too smart).

On my first try, I was really surprised because I was climbing without too much pain. Then, I realized that this problem didn't have any crimp move. I was very happy to realize that my trip was not finished yet. Then, I decided to work on that V12. The first day, I figured out a beta for me. The second day, I decided to rest (it was an advice from my friend David). The third and last day, in the last minute, I did the problem. It was amazing, because a try before I had fallen after the crux. So, I tried again and I did it. I was so happy and I could come back to Montreal without any regret.

Here, you can see the phoenix V12.

Thanks for reading and watching.


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