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Quick Turn Around

Quick Turn Around
Quick Turn Around
Quick Turn Around
Quick Turn Around
Quick Turn Around
Quick Turn Around
Quick Turn Around
March 18, 2013 -  Nicholas Milburn    

I just realized that I had this blog post written up and I never posted it, so here we go.

The weekend before ABS Open Nationals I had a long weekend, so I capitalized on this random awesomeness and decided to go rock climbing. Mostly Tom (stepdad) planned everything and I eagerly agreed. Anyway after we debated a bit on where to go we decided to back to the southeast and climb on that sweet sandstone.  We left after I got out of school, so we didn’t make it all the way, but this worked out rather well. At about noon the next day we arrived at Rocktown then from there we would drive to Chattanooga, so everything worked out swimmingly.

My goal at Rocktown was to send The Womb. I fell on the last move a couple times during Christmas which is always a bit depressing, but still fun. After falling on the last move a couple more times I sent the thing. I suggest everyone right now drive down to Rocktown and get on The Womb… its awesome! Micheal Durenleau did some cool thing with my camera and we, mostly him though, put together a little video of the climb. We will add some more stuff to it over spring break and then we’ll stick it on web. It has a pretty awesome sound track right now.

The next day we went out to Little Rock City. I really wanted to try and send Barn Door 2000. I basically sent the whole problem… minus the hardest part. I’d say I was about 5 or 6in short of the dyno. Next Kyle Howard, Micheal Durenleau, Justin Smitty, and I got on Interplanetary Escape which has one of the coolest dyno cross hand palm thing ever! Micheal and I both sent. Tom went to Chronic and ended up sending. He did get a bit wigged out on the top, but that’s understandable. The rest of us went to Pringle Problem. I’ve never heard of it before which is unfortunate because it is an amazing line. It runs up an arête then busts out left to an undercling, you hike your feet up and do a big move to the finish jug. It’s pretty sketchy at the top which is weird because it’s really not all that tall. I also suggest driving to LRC to get on this problem… because it’s awesome.

Our third and last day of climbing was spent at Dayton. Tom went back to LRC, but Kyle, Justin and I, Micheal was lame and did homework instead of climbing, went to Dayton.  I had my best day of climbing ever this day. We went to the roof first which has a handful of problems. I warmed then got on the V5 and fell (got it next go), the flashed the V7, two V8s, a V9, a V10 and did a V11 second try. I was super psyched!!! Kyle made quick work of his anti-style project, the V10, which was awesome. I can’t remember all the names of these problems, sorry.

Justin really wanted to get on River Dance, so we walked down to it next. This boulder sits right next to the river and partially in the water. Point is that it is awesome. Anyway I did the sit to River Dance, Capoeira, and then started trying Lord of the Dance. Kyle thought Lord of the Dance was impossible until he started trying it and realized he could do the moves. After about 100 tries Justin finally sent River Dance which was awesome to see! With some of Kyle’s fancy foot beta I was able to do Lord of the Dance in two sections. I will get my revenge during spring break!!!

On the way back home I got to ride in the bed in Justin’s van which was extra soft. He has a goose down blanket! I didn’t even know they made those!

I would like to give a shout out to my old coach and friend Trey Oliver recently pasted away. He gave me my first Prana shirt at my first nationals. “Free Spirit”


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