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Getting Away From it All - Alan Cassidy

Getting Away From it All - Alan Cassidy
Getting Away From it All - Alan Cassidy
Getting Away From it All - Alan Cassidy
Getting Away From it All - Alan Cassidy
March 11, 2013 -  Alan Cassidy    

It has been another hard winter here in Scotland. The long dark nights, the rain and the work commitments have once again meant that rock activity has been limited. Same old story huh?!

Well, with a weather window coinciding with a few days off there was nothing for it but to escape the country all together.  I have never been the best boulderer and this year I am determined to turn that around. I have been seeing some progression in the training and was keen to apply it to the boulders.  Where would you go to boulder in Northern Europe if you had the choice? Font of course.

I have never really "got" Font. The few trips I have been there before have been a bit disappointing in terms of returns. The forest does not give away its secrets easily and I had, until now, never been in good weather conditions. I am desperate to consolidate my bouldering in the 8s, but with only 4 days, and low PBs in Font I was happy to make this trip more about breaking my font jinx. I wanted to understand the process of climbing there more, how far off 8A I actually am and get some ideas on how to change that.

I'll spare you the daily breakdown but each day the conditions got progressively better and my "feeling" for the climbing grew. I tried loads of problems between 7A and 8A and to be honest I probably climbed less of them than I would have hoped. But with so much frustration, the successes when they come are 10 times more gratifying.  Topping out after a grovelling mantel where all technique goes out the window or finally unlocking the nuances of the footwork after an hour of frustration and incomprehensible failure gave me a warm glow inside.   

By day 4 i had topped out on my Font nemesis from all my previous trips - Big Boss. At 7C I hadn't broken any records, not even personal ones but I had finally got a sense that I could in fact climb hard in Font. Unfortunately the holidays and skin had already come to an end. I wish I had the rest of the month to really see what I could do. All this route climber can do at the moment is think about going back for some more bouldering!


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