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RRG! - Kyle Francis

RRG! - Kyle Francis
RRG! - Kyle Francis
RRG! - Kyle Francis
RRG! - Kyle Francis
RRG! - Kyle Francis
January 15, 2013 - 

Unfortunately due to college stuff and finals, I have neglected my blog, but I’m back! A combination of senioritis and getting accepted has resulted in a lot more time for climbing and blogging!

Back in November I went to the Red River Gorge for revenge on Southern smoke (5.14c), however, I was more out of shape than I can ever remember being. I was in mediocre bouldering shape for that matter…. I did circuit training like twice before I left… but I was optimistic! I figured it either realize pretty quick that I could or could not do the project, and if not, then just do whatever I could, I was just psyched to be back, and to be in the cold for the first time. We had five or six climbing days, and I was traveling with a buddy of mine from Dallas, Brian Antheunisse, who shared similar aspirations. So day one of climbing, we of course went to go get a feel of what we were going to do, and went to the Bob Marley crag. We warmed up on one of the 12’s in the cave, and then got on ultra-perm (13d) to re-remember some of the moves. We both ended up doing it, o we felt pretty confident.  I got on Southern Smoke first, falling only twice, and re figured out the moves, and oh man did the friction feel incredible! BA got on after me and one fell it on his first try! I tried twice more that day just for muscle memory’s sake, and got it down to one fall and a take. The next day we went back and that day I one fell it, but as soon as I fell I got right back on and went to the top. After that I felt as if I were very few tries away, I just needed that one run. Especially because when I fell, I was two hold away from the rest, then into ultra-perm, which I knew I could do. ALL of my tries after that ended with me falling inches from the rest holds, unable to feel my fingers. Obviously I was pumped, but I definitely could’ve kept going. I got so cold that for every run I had adhesive hand warmer on the outside of my boxers to keep my core warm, and them lining the wrists of my sweater to stimulate blood flow, not to mention the FOUR in my chalk bag. It got to the point where resting became jut stalling until I could feel my hands again. Unfortunately me and BA both came back empty handed, except for doing ultra perm like ten times….

We did however spend a day exploring and found a bunch of the new crags that are supposed to open, and sweet god is the RRG about to get even bigger. These walls were out of control! Can’t wait to climb them!

I’d also like to touch on the amount of sends that happened in November for the RRG. It seriously incredible what everyone did, from Ashima doing what she does, Adam flashing everyone’s projects and down rating all of them and even to Jimmy Webb taking his climbing time to bolt new routes. The Sport I think I really starting to come into its own with the array of unselfish climbers who are taking their talents to a whole other level.  It truly is an inspiration, and I cant wait to see where it goes!


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