Follow Five Ten

  • Facebook Page: 48708964129
  • Twitter: 5ten
  • Vimeo: fiveten
  • YouTube: FiveTenTV

The Pallers Free, Old School Climbing (Montserrat) - Ferran Guerrero Hervas

The Pallers Free, Old School Climbing (Montserrat) - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
The Pallers Free, Old School Climbing (Montserrat) - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
The Pallers Free, Old School Climbing (Montserrat) - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
The Pallers Free, Old School Climbing (Montserrat) - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
The Pallers Free, Old School Climbing (Montserrat) - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
The Pallers Free, Old School Climbing (Montserrat) - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
The Pallers Free, Old School Climbing (Montserrat) - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
December 30, 2012 - 

Escalating Last year, another year, another year of climbing, another year of new sensations in the rock, another year to continue enjoying what I love to do, climb.

So, what better way to finish it, in Montserrat, with two friends and fellow adventurers, Kalvin and Quo, the proposal was to go to the sector Kalvin Pallers Free Els, on the south side of Montserrat and the lower Agulles region, took life hearing stories of this sector and we had to check in situ, and all of them are not always true, because if so, nor break the rock still in some way due to lack of these would be scaled and very magnesiadas and paws. In about 25-30 min in ascension plants in a story balcony, above the Xincarro Vermell, over the long plates, below Agulles region with magnificent views and passing under many unspoiled shaped billets that make you dream and moving to a moonscape.


In the new guide on the south side and explains it well, "microdams adjusted grade (the old way).'re In a time when the cost of the 6th and truth, therefore the 6c and 7a you can imagine the "what today we would call old school, so we love it here no free lunch, nor a way magnesiada, and enjoy climbing, simply magnificent. First you have to make initial contact with the tracks of each sector, so let's go party, promise more visits to this small sector that has stolen my heart.

First contact, we:

-Outer Limits, two plates and assembly, where their neighbors have three or four plates, stamped their outfitters and the time, year 88 ', I love, all areas should be well equipped (I mean no joke ), via easy to heat, and let it clinched in the guide should see what it's all about but not yet reality shows.

-Quesrom also the year 88 ', I personally liked and I try to have missed up (Bon vivant), will be the excuse to return, input rabiosilla Sant Benet style and after long strides, good insurance positions.

-Agony, 88 ', a bit tight between track and very much obliged if you make the plate is one thing if you make alternating crack and plate is another.

Foramen Magnum-88 ', pressed for its difficulty, and thus solve yet to view any area and now would be a degree more, well secured, from the second movement to stop the meeting not tighten and squeeze on small strips fist, with a marked section between the second and third plate that makes the difference, do inhuman view, but even so falls view.

Bon rotllo-2008, much more now, in the guide comes as Agulles of 2011 and the project is still new south face as chained and I have my doubts, after a pretty good attempt to view the fissure (which I do well), you stand under the roof, and you stay there without knowing what to do, even solves the passage with an inverted and a couple of songs at the start but since I have not known what to do, two plates of the meeting, that if with joy (6 meters flying), I have my doubts that this chained, I've broken a foot, hand descascarillaba dam and no magnesium, if anyone has info is appreciated, I found very good, a good way .

Vint anys beef-2008, there is much difference between this difficulty and its neighbors, very good way to end the day, long and runs alternating spur a plate with a very peculiar wave shape, good way to end the day.

I would say that in the current South Montserrat guide there is an error in the year 1997 with Slope gift that put the project via Bon rotllo and equipped much earlier, which is the input of the crack in the guide Southern Montserrat year 2003-2004 (I think), here is the project in the 2011 guide is also Agulles project and instead locates the new route guide that team in 2008, and has already retrofitted some parabolt goes as chained, under the conditions I've seen the rock I'm not sure, it is certain that no team in 2008 (if you have partial retrofit)

The 2012 comes to a close, Ferran, Laia and small Arlet We wish you a happy 2013 full of climbing, which I do enjoy chains and many years of climbing, be happy

Photo credit: Oriol Macia

Popular Stories

Wild Bunch Dodo’s Delight (w/ Nico Favresse)
Nicolas Favresse
04-22-2015 - 
Four years after Vertical Sailing Greenland, Captain Reverend Bob Shepton (79) calls the...
Bouldering, Bolton pass Estrie, Québec
Hans Christian Montenegro
04-06-2015 - 
Here we have a new climbing park In Bolton pass Estrie, Québec. ...
La forêt magique de Fontainebleau.
Urs Moosmuller
04-20-2015 - 
There aren’t words to describe how beautiful Fontainebleau is. All the hype about...
Nic Rummel
04-01-2015 - 
I have had a blast growing as a climber and as a person...