Follow Five Ten

  • Facebook Page: 48708964129
  • Twitter: 5ten
  • Vimeo: fiveten
  • YouTube: FiveTenTV

Balcony Project 9a+ - Markus Eder

 
Balcony Project 9a+ - Markus Eder
Balcony Project 9a+ - Markus Eder
Balcony Project 9a+ - Markus Eder
Balcony Project 9a+ - Markus Eder
Balcony Project 9a+ - Markus Eder
 
November 29, 2012 -  Markus Eder    
 

I haven’t climbed on this cliff for a long time. I’ve already done most of the good lines, all other projects are wet most of the time – an excuse can always be found. Stop – there is one route left: Klem Loskot’s balcony project!

I’ve tried this route three years ago but back then I had no idea how the moves could be done. Klem hasn’t done it, so maybe it’s a little bit harder…

After a DWS-trip to Mallorca in 2005 I lost contact with Klem, probably caused by his climbing break and my absence because of the university. Last month Klem called and the silence was over. We exchanged news and fixed a date for climbing together like in old times. Where are we going to climb? Of course, we are trying the balcony project!

Klem had a perfect beta for the start and for the crux we combined our ideas. A few days more of work and Klem showed me how it should look like – for 18 years a project and now it’s done! The beer afterwards at the pub was self-evident…

One week later and two climbing days more in the route, I found myself at the pub again -I managed to put all the six moves at the bottom together and to do the crux move into the two-finger pocket. The easier upper part was a pleasure – even with cold fingers. What a great feeling!

 

Join the Community

Popular Stories

Indian Creek to the Red Rock Rendezvous and Beyond - Chris Schulte
04-08-2014 - 
Back again for another Red Rock Rendezvous, this time fresh from the Utah...
Sweet Sandstone - Nicholas Milburn
04-11-2014 - 
What is a better way to spend spring break than bouldering on sweet...
Plastic & Rock: ‘Tis the Season…for both? - Angela Payne
04-14-2014 - 
There comes a time every year when the weather begins to improve, the...
Final Days in Guadalcazar - Urs Moosmuller
Urs Moosmuller
04-11-2014 - 
Most of my trip to Mexico has been spent climbing in Guadalcazar, Mexico....