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Bouldering in Norway - Markus Eder

Bouldering in Norway - Markus Eder
Bouldering in Norway - Markus Eder
Bouldering in Norway - Markus Eder
Bouldering in Norway - Markus Eder
Bouldering in Norway - Markus Eder
June 25, 2012 -  Markus Eder    

Midnight sun, elks, stockfish and mosquitos – that is how I pictured Norway. Now, after a six week roadtrip throuh this beautiful land, I know that it has plenty of other things to offer, amongst others the best granite climbing I have seen so far

We skipped the area around Oslo because we already knew the climbing there and headed to Trøndelag, the district around Trondheim. The village and crag of Hell has not only an extraordinary name, also the rock is special - granite conglomerate! The steep, powerful routes really fitted my style and I made some quick repeats from classics like ‘Nih Minh Wang’, ‘Tvangstrøya’, ‘Link up’en’ and flashed ‘Klassikeren’ and ‘Tvangstanker’. Going to Hell is really a must do if you are in this area!


On Fosen, the peninsula north of Trondheim, you can find the bouldering areas Harbak and Vingsand. The bouldering is located on blocs and in caves next to the see and offers five stars lines. The surface of the rock is smooth and the boulders are sometimes more like routes than boulders. Another advantage: the fantastic landscape and swimming possibilities made the restdays as enjoyable as the climbing days.

Further to the east we discovered the massive granite cave of Flatanger. I have never seen a place with such a potential for hard routes before. Only a few lines are already established, each of them is a true pearl and the bolting process is just getting started – this is going to be the summer location of the future! The shape of the rock offers steep, juggy, endurance climbing where every single climb is a pleasure. My personal highlight of Flatanger was the route ‘Flaggermusmannen’, with a crazy dyno and a ‘no hand rest’ in bat style.

Next stop - Lofoten! The way up there is long and exhausting but it’s worth it. Plenty of granite walls, up to 1000 meters elevation surrounded by boulders on the beach and superb sportclimbing with midnight sun – a dreamy place I would say.
Scattered snowfall every day, temperatures between 0 and 10 degrees and lots of snow in the walls showed us that it’s too early in the season. So skipping the long climbs and focus on bouldering and sportclimbing in Eggum made our days. 24 hours of daylight (which should be sun in the best case), was something special what we really enjoyed.

Part two of our ‘Climb Now – Work Later’ journey is now over. The following week will be spent in the gym to gain finger strength for the showdown in the Rocklands!


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