- wallclimber109If the video link on this page isnt working you can check the video out on youtube. www.youtube.com/...
- Alex FritzJacob, George has been establishing stuff in McClellan for a very long time, he is out there all the...
- JacobNot all of these lines are FA's strong people have been bouldering at mcclellen for at least 6 years...
- MeliThank you to Veephoto for the climbing picture!
- haveronglad u had a great trip!
Ryan Matson and I successfully made a two day assent of America's tallest free standing tower: the Titan. Oct 2-3, we climbed the 800ft tower, about 30% free, 20% French free, and aided the rest. Brent Cain and Hayley Ashburn hauled gear, and Brent summited with us on day 2. We used mostly tips from friends as well as a Map and Beta from George Beil's guide. Without the offsets from Luke, we'd probably still be trying to send... By the way, offsets are awesome. We heard the climb was technical, exposed, classic, and of course that the tower stood more than 800ft tall. We knew it would be a challenge to climb and jump! It was awesome to first see the Fisher towers (which were originally named the fissure towers), just to hike through and enjoy views. Towers of mud and sand, hundreds of feet tall that have been rain-and-wind-blown into massive natural sculptures. Free standing in a makeshift army formation. Each with a name. Each with a personality. Each proudly beckoning exploration. Climbing these towers is exhilarating. One, its fun heads up aid-climbing, and two, its like climbing through history. You pass pitons, and anchors from the golden era; and even clip and belay off of some. There is even old fixed gear that will put a knot in your stomach as you "just go for it." I even experienced my most exposed belay ever. In shorts and a T-shirt, clipped into a bunch of sun baked, core shot tat, equalized poorly to 4 manky bolts, on the last pitch. It's labeled "spectacular stance on arete," in the guide. The anchor you clip to is on a prow maybe 4ft wide, and it positions you back facing the 600ft+ sheer drop behind you. Not to mention the 1000ft of exposure added onto that. And the 330+ degrees of emptiness around you just keeps you in awe; and then.... the rain comes in. And the wind. And it doesn't stop for nearly 45 minutes; until we reached the summit. Apparently, I was the only one getting wet. Brent huddled up on a ledge in my tracking gear and slept, and Ryan was shielded by the upper lip of the Titan as he was on lead. Meanwhile i was doing patty-cake, and fast steps in a hanging belay failing to stay warm; even with summit fever. The summit of the Titan is spectacular. Its probably the size of a basketball court all together, but never really wider than about 20ft. You have a view of everything in the area. 360 degrees of some of the most beautiful natural terrain in the world. But somehow, even off the ledges, and faces, the top is still very intimidating. You feel like a magnet and the edge has the opposite polarization. The exposure is intense, and the fall is deadly. Even sitting down, we all kept commenting on the visuals. I knew this tower had been jumped before, but i didn't know the beta. All i knew was that the west facing diving board was perfect. It hangs right off the edge of the summit, and the cliff face under it was allowing for around a 8 second rock drop. Worst case scenario. The only dangerous factors were the wind and the landing area, or lack there of - rather. I walked my potential landing areas twice before and pretty much was happy with it just being a "safe enough" shit show. I didn't really know where i was going to open, how high i was going to be, or what my options were. On the bottom i didn't even really know which side i was jumping off of. All i knew was that the trail was pretty much the best and only option in any case. Boulders are everywhere. And if you flew too far the hike back could be heinous! Then again, if you went for the trail and shorted it... that wouldn't be much fun either. The area is packed full of canyons and towers, spires, fingers, bowls, and heaps of rock. All the unique formations just destroy any chance of really knowing what the wind is doing. From where you jump, to where you land, you could be in different climates! Lucky enough for me we got rained on the last pitches, and I scored a jumpable moment at the summit. Getting ready for the jump was nerve racking. I leaned over the edge to try to take a last look at my landing options. I realized that its really hard to see the detentions of the ground from 800ft directly above it. It all just looks flat and relatively safe to land on. Worst case scenario, i would just fly to the valley and have a terrible hike back. And if i couldn't make it because of cliffs, ryan and brent could come get me. All i could really do is either choose not to jump... or figure it out in the air. The flight was amazing. The landing was a little sketchy. But, everyone made it down safe. Wrapping down just takes a bit longer. =) We had a blast, ate our fair share of sand, pulled on a bunch of flexing awesomeness, got to the top, and even recorded a little video along the way. Enjoy the charging of the Titan!
- Added Date: Oct 05 2011
- Length: 05:28
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