http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12230-first-one-day-ascent-of-scorched-earth-ammon-mcneely http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12230-first-one-day-ascent-of-scorched-earth-ammon-mcneely I just climbed my 13th first one day ascent of El Capitan! Rob Slater and Randy Leavitt climbed the first ascent of Scorched Earth on El Capitan in 1987. The route is known for its steep pitches, loose rock and hard aiding. David Allfrey, Skiy Detray and I just climbed the first one day ascent of the route in 22 hours and 28 minutes. While short-fixing, I endured a 50 foot fall on the 4th pitch when a hook blew, a carabiner got lodged in my Gri-gri the camming mechanism failed and fell all the way to the end... ]]> Mon, 31 Oct 2011 17:51:00 -0400 12230 2011-10-31 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG2844_1320083484.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG2893_1320083484.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12222-50-classic-climbsmark-and-janelle-smiley-meet-al-steck-and-knock-off-36 http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12222-50-classic-climbsmark-and-janelle-smiley-meet-al-steck-and-knock-off-36 Oct 7th was our 5 year anniversary. What better way to celebrate it than climbing the Nose on El Cap? We had been planning for this for the last few days. Buying 12 $0.79 two-liter bottles of soda for water containers, packing the haul bags, and practicing jugging where all part of the prep. Now we were ready. We walked to the base of the route only to see 11 other people on the first three pitches of the climb. We sat down and just watched. Everyone was moving very slowly, so we bailed. ]]> Thu, 27 Oct 2011 22:37:13 -0400 12222 2011-10-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12222_steck_1319755255.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12203-dawn-wall-project-on-el-cap-kevin-jorgeson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12203-dawn-wall-project-on-el-cap-kevin-jorgeson A little over a week ago, I sustained a season ending ankle injury while climbing on pitch 15 of the Dawn Wall project on El Cap. There's not much more to say than that. I'm extremely disappointed to not be on the wall right now, pursuing this dream project and supporting Tommy. ]]> Mon, 24 Oct 2011 23:14:38 -0400 12203 2011-10-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12203_2_1319498442.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12120-its-fall-in-yosemite-valley-and-love-is-in-the-air-sonnie-trotter http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12120-its-fall-in-yosemite-valley-and-love-is-in-the-air-sonnie-trotter It's important to respect your male climbing partners, some might even have "Man Crushes" for them, which is always flattering, but not entirely necessary. ha ha. And although Will Stanhope (a fellow countryman and Five Ten Athlete) does have a very nice smile and a soft approachable demeanor, I have never considered him a "man crush" before. In fact, I've never had a crush on any of my male climbing partners before. Not to say that they aren't handsome and bad-ass, just that I have never looked at it that way. What I do have for... ]]> Mon, 10 Oct 2011 16:57:17 -0400 12120 2011-10-10 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12120_stanhope1_1318266832.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12116-yosemite-trip-fall-2011-will-stanhope http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12116-yosemite-trip-fall-2011-will-stanhope Sonnie and I have been in Yosemite for a few days now. We've been fooling around on the top of El Cap, rapping in and inspecting the upper A1 beauty pitch of the Prophet. Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles established the route last year, ending a 9 year quest. ]]> Sat, 08 Oct 2011 19:34:00 -0400 12116 2011-10-08 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_5696344224496194850745694857801243514853o_1318102494.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_willysmall_1318102494.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_sunsetsmall_1318102495.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12105-second-female-free-ascent-of-the-salathe-wall-mayan-smith-gobat http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12105-second-female-free-ascent-of-the-salathe-wall-mayan-smith-gobat Second female free ascent of the Salathe Wall, first NZ free ascent of El Capitan! Free climbing El Capitan has always been a dream of mine... Something which I have always aspired to ever since I started climbing. I have always had a fascination for big walls, and loved being in exposed, beautiful places. However, until a couple years ago I did not take it on as a real goal. Then, when I when I climbed El Capitan for the first time, via the Free Rider, I realized my dream was not too far fetched and I... ]]> Wed, 05 Oct 2011 22:12:00 -0400 12105 2011-10-05 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12105_IMG1059_1317856537.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12105_3216501015037684963039651247039510118336867069121n_1317854692.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12105_3216501015037684963039651247039510118336867069121n_1317854441.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12105_30365410150376847560396512470395101183151088876999n_1317854441.jpg