I am just back from Yosemite. I can't believe 3 years passed since the last time I was in Yosemite valley. It's funny how every time it's the same feeling: It's even more beautiful than what I had remembered. Even after having climbed in so many places all over the world, Yosemite remains this unbypassable mecca for big wall climbing and I will always come back to it. This last fall I spent 1month and half in the valley which still felt way too short. El cap was the main target. I had a very fun trip so here...

I just climbed my 13th first one day ascent of El Capitan! Rob Slater and Randy Leavitt climbed the first ascent of Scorched Earth on El Capitan in 1987. The route is known for its steep pitches, loose rock and hard aiding. David Allfrey, Skiy Detray and I just climbed the first one day ascent of the route in 22 hours and 28 minutes. While short-fixing, I endured a 50 foot fall on the 4th pitch when a hook blew, a carabiner got lodged in my Gri-gri the camming mechanism failed and fell all the way to the end...

Oct 7th was our 5 year anniversary. What better way to celebrate it than climbing the Nose on El Cap? We had been planning for this for the last few days. Buying 12 $0.79 two-liter bottles of soda for water containers, packing the haul bags, and practicing jugging where all part of the prep. Now we were ready. We walked to the base of the route only to see 11 other people on the first three pitches of the climb. We sat down and just watched. Everyone was moving very slowly, so we bailed.

A little over a week ago, I sustained a season ending ankle injury while climbing on pitch 15 of the Dawn Wall project on El Cap. There's not much more to say than that. I'm extremely disappointed to not be on the wall right now, pursuing this dream project and supporting Tommy.

It's important to respect your male climbing partners, some might even have "Man Crushes" for them, which is always flattering, but not entirely necessary. ha ha. And although Will Stanhope (a fellow countryman and Five Ten Athlete) does have a very nice smile and a soft approachable demeanor, I have never considered him a "man crush" before. In fact, I've never had a crush on any of my male climbing partners before. Not to say that they aren't handsome and bad-ass, just that I have never looked at it that way. What I do have for...

Sonnie and I have been in Yosemite for a few days now. We've been fooling around on the top of El Cap, rapping in and inspecting the upper A1 beauty pitch of the Prophet. Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles established the route last year, ending a 9 year quest.