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Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope climb Yosemite’s Prophet (5.13.d)

Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope climb Yosemite’s Prophet (5.13.d)
November 21, 2011 - 

BREAKING NEWS: One year after Leo's legendary first ascent of the Prophet (5.13d R), Canadian climbers and fellow Five Ten Athletes, Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope climb one of Yosemite’s boldest and hardest free climbs. Sonnie managed to free every pitch, with only 1 fall in all 13 pitches, while Will climbed everything but the final crux clean. An outstanding effort on their part, especially considering this was Sonnie's first El Cap route EVER. The duo spent their birthday’s on the climb (November 15 and 16), starting up on November 14th, what a gift they...

Superhero Sonnie - Will Stanhope

Superhero Sonnie - Will Stanhope
November 12, 2011 - 

Sonnie and I are still tinkering away on the Prophet. Trotter is leading the charge. I think it’s really interesting to look at how the very best trad climbers operate on the sharp end. I would put Sonnie in a really small group of people I’ve climbed with that are truly built for hard, scary rock climbing. Skill plays a huge part. Strength plays a huge part. But an innate positivity is the biggest factor, I think. When the house of cards begins to collapse for me, I start losing the optimistic edge, and everything seems to spiral towards...

Five Ten Stowaway Tour Update - Mayan Smith-Gobat

Five Ten Stowaway Tour Update - Mayan Smith-Gobat
November 02, 2011 - 

A week ago I left a perfect October in Yosemite for an epic trip to China, to partake in the Petzl Roctrip in the Getu Valley. What a crazy contrast, after about 40 hours of travel I ended up in rural China, staying in a tiny village surrounded by an amazing amount of incredible limestone walls.

Back from Yosemite! - Nicolas Favresse

Back from Yosemite! - Nicolas Favresse
November 01, 2011 - 

I am just back from Yosemite. I can't believe 3 years passed since the last time I was in Yosemite valley. It's funny how every time it's the same feeling: It's even more beautiful than what I had remembered. Even after having climbed in so many places all over the world, Yosemite remains this unbypassable mecca for big wall climbing and I will always come back to it. This last fall I spent 1month and half in the valley which still felt way too short. El cap was the main target. I had a very fun trip so here...

First One Day Ascent of Scorched Earth - Ammon McNeely

First One Day Ascent of Scorched Earth - Ammon McNeely
October 31, 2011 - 

I just climbed my 13th first one day ascent of El Capitan! Rob Slater and Randy Leavitt climbed the first ascent of Scorched Earth on El Capitan in 1987. The route is known for its steep pitches, loose rock and hard aiding. David Allfrey, Skiy Detray and I just climbed the first one day ascent of the route in 22 hours and 28 minutes. While short-fixing, I endured a 50 foot fall on the 4th pitch when a hook blew, a carabiner got lodged in my Gri-gri the camming mechanism failed and fell all the way to the end...

50 Classic Climbs—Mark and Janelle Smiley meet Al Steck (and knock off #36)

50 Classic Climbs—Mark and Janelle Smiley meet Al Steck (and knock off #36)
October 27, 2011 -  Mark Smiley

Oct 7th was our 5 year anniversary. What better way to celebrate it than climbing the Nose on El Cap? We had been planning for this for the last few days. Buying 12 $0.79 two-liter bottles of soda for water containers, packing the haul bags, and practicing jugging where all part of the prep. Now we were ready. We walked to the base of the route only to see 11 other people on the first three pitches of the climb. We sat down and just watched. Everyone was moving very slowly, so we bailed.

 

Dawn Wall project on El Cap - Kevin Jorgeson

Dawn Wall project on El Cap - Kevin Jorgeson
October 24, 2011 - 
A little over a week ago, I sustained a season ending ankle injury while climbing...

It's Fall in Yosemite Valley and Love Is In The Air - Sonnie Trotter

It's Fall in Yosemite Valley and Love Is In The Air - Sonnie Trotter
October 10, 2011 - 
It's important to respect your male climbing partners, some might even have "Man Crushes" for...

Yosemite Trip Fall 2011 - Will Stanhope

Yosemite Trip Fall 2011 - Will Stanhope
October 08, 2011 - 
Sonnie and I have been in Yosemite for a few days now. We've been fooling...

Second female free ascent of the Salathe Wall - Mayan Smith-Gobat

Second female free ascent of the Salathe Wall - Mayan Smith-Gobat
October 05, 2011 - 
Second female free ascent of the Salathe Wall, first NZ free ascent of El Capitan!...
 
 
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