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50 Classic Climbs—Mark and Janelle Smiley meet Al Steck (and knock off #36)

50 Classic Climbs—Mark and Janelle Smiley meet Al Steck (and knock off #36)
October 27, 2011 -  Mark Smiley

Oct 7th was our 5 year anniversary. What better way to celebrate it than climbing the Nose on El Cap? We had been planning for this for the last few days. Buying 12 $0.79 two-liter bottles of soda for water containers, packing the haul bags, and practicing jugging where all part of the prep. Now we were ready. We walked to the base of the route only to see 11 other people on the first three pitches of the climb. We sat down and just watched. Everyone was moving very slowly, so we bailed.

Bugaboo Spire's East Ridge - The Smiley Project

Bugaboo Spire's East Ridge - The Smiley Project
October 03, 2011 -  Mark Smiley

The guidebook clearly states, “More people get ‘benighted’ on this [East Ridge of Bugaboo Spire] than all other routes in the area combined.” This is due to the involved traverse from the North to South summit, and then the lengthy descent.

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