Pure endurance climbing and fitness is hard to come by in the New River. Usually routes consist of hard boulder problems between stances or rests, which makes it a little more difficult to built pure endurance. So, with the Red River Gorge being so close it has become customary to make the drive and spend a few weeks at the red. Normally, I come to the Red with the intentions to climb pitches and practice on- sighting, rarely do I spend time in the Red projecting. My time here has been spent just working on building climbing...
I recently went on a weekend trip to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky! I was really psyched to head down, it was my first trip of the season. I also wanted to know where I was at, as far as training. The sport season has just begun for me, considering ABS Nationals ended just a few weeks ago. Training for rope has been intense so far, I don't have much time before Adult SCS Nationals in early April.
We arrived in the Red River Gorge on the 17th of December for a short 4 day trip. This will be my second trip to the NRG this season and I have still only seen a very small part of what the New has to offer in terms of bouldering.
Overall my first trip to the Red was fantastic, but one route in particular stands out in quality of rock and movement that parallels or exceeds the best climbs I've seen from around the world.
I remember getting bored on my first long road trips. I did my best to prepare with an arms load of books, journals, or playing cards. I would even try out new hobbies like knitting or baking or something. Usually I wouldn’t really like these hobby, the books would get read, my writing wasn’t all that notable and at the end of those long, long rest days I wanted something else to DO.
This years Rocktoberfest at the Red River Gorge was again a success. Great weather, great climbing, and a great event put on by the Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition. The purpose of the event is to help pay for the Pendergrass-Murry Recreational Preserve (AKA Muir Valley) which hosts some of the most aesthetic routes at the Red. Area legend and developer, Porter Jarrard once told me the climb Cell Block Six in the Muir Valley area is the best route he has climbed at the Red.