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On the Road with Wiz Fineron

On the Road with Wiz Fineron
November 27, 2012 - 

Maybe it’s something in New Zealand’s water. First there’s Mayan Gobat-Smith, who’s arguably the best female trad climber on the planet. Now, in the category of ridiculously strong young men, fellow-countryman, Wiz Fineron, is making a big splash by repeating some of the hardest routes in the Southern Hemisphere—including the iconic Punks in the Gym and, most recently, claimed one of Australia’s s most sought-after historic projects, Somalia. In between training and studying for his final exams, I caught up with Wiz to find out more about his recent climbs and background.

On the Road with Mayan Smith-Gobat

On the Road with Mayan Smith-Gobat
November 12, 2012 - 

Fresh off the first Female Ascent of Australia’s iconic Punks in the Gym, the world’s first 5.14, Mayan Smith-Gobat headed to Smith Rock State Park, Oregon. While most people would have contentedly rested on their laurels and enjoyed a few well-deserved rest days, Mayan battled freezing temperatures and snow to check out Just Do It, another world-class test piece with no female ascents. With most of the locals ducking the cold conditions by heading to warmer climes like Kentucky’s Red River Gorge or the local Bend Rock Gym, Mayan’s love of the sport and of a new challenges enticed...

On the Road with Nico Favresse

On the Road with Nico Favresse
April 16, 2012 -  Nancy Prichard-Bouchard

Winner of the 2011 Piolet d’Or, an international award given to climbers who demonstrate the modern sense of alpinism, Nico is hands-down one of the world’s most respected climbers. In a sport now dominated with bouldering, sport climbing and indoor climbing gyms, Nico epitomizes adventure climbing. Born in Brussels, Belgium, and now an international traveler, Nico’s style of climbing is that of old school. He has climbing partners, rather than the new-school “belayer,” and considers adventure more important than “world’s hardest” or a line in the Guinness Book of World Records. Most recently, Nico returned from a successful trip...

Long Weekend in Sinks Canyon, WY - Jen Vennon

Long Weekend in Sinks Canyon, WY - Jen Vennon
March 01, 2012 - 

Over President’s Day weekend I made a weekend road trip to Lander, WY. Winter has been dragging on and “life” has taken it’s toll in the last few months. Work, work, and more work . . . that’s all I feel like I do. But a three-day weekend is a rare thing and something to be taken advantage of. So we packed up the car and set out on the lonely roads that connect Colorado to Wyoming. What we found were good friends, fun times, and sunny walls to climb. Months of no climbing have left me weak and...

On The Road with Angie Payne

On The Road with Angie Payne
November 21, 2011 -  Nancy Prichard-Bouchard

Angie Payne helped to reinvent and reinvigorate women’s climbing. Born and raised in Cincinnati, Ohio, Angie began climbing indoors at the age of eleven. She moved to Boulder, Colorado in 2003 to attend the University of Colorado. Her tenure in one of the world’s top climbing destinations paid off—not only did she excel at her studies, but also won three ABS National Championships and two PCA competitions in the 2003-2004 season. Over the next four years, she added 8 top three finishes to her competitive bouldering resume. In 2011, she won the EMS Pro in Central...

On the Road with Nina Caprez

On the Road with Nina Caprez
October 27, 2011 -  Nancy Prichard-Bouchard

Nina Caprez does it all. From difficult  multipitch roped climbs to impossible bouldering, the Swiss-born Caprez is a climber’s climber. Born on November 15th, 1986 in Kueblis, Switzerland, a small town in the magnificent Praettigau Valley, Caprez quickly developed an appreciation of the outdoors. Caprez, with her two older siblings, explored the vast alpine environment. “Life took me everywhere from snowboarding and mountain biking to 4000 meter peaks,” reminisces Caprez, who also plays the flute and piano. But, she says, climbing is her great passion.

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