Maybe it’s something in New Zealand’s water. First there’s Mayan Gobat-Smith, who’s arguably the best female trad climber on the planet. Now, in the category of ridiculously strong young men, fellow-countryman, Wiz Fineron, is making a big splash by repeating some of the hardest routes in the Southern Hemisphere—including the iconic Punks in the Gym and, most recently, claimed one of Australia’s s most sought-after historic projects, Somalia. In between training and studying for his final exams, I caught up with Wiz to find out more about his recent climbs and background.
Mayan Smith-Gobat made the first female ascent of the historic route Punks in the Gym at Arapiles, Australia - The first 5.14a in the world, first climbed by the legendary Wolfgang Güllich in 1985 and still considered a world class test piece. Mayan first tried the route in 2010, and has made several tips down to Arapiles since, finally succeeding after a lot of hard work, on the 28th October 2012.
The last week of my time in the Getu Valley was really amazing. Slowly the place returned to normal, there was no more waiting in a cue to climb and by end of the week it felt like we were the only foreigners left in the village. It was also awesome having the chance to climb and hang out with the 5.10 team. There was some sick sendage going down, despite us all getting sick at various times throughout the trip. Beau got some great photos, and thanks to Kevin, doing an incredible job of organizing everything for us...