http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13703-novdec-2012-the-beginnings-of-a-climbing-team-will-roderick http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13703-novdec-2012-the-beginnings-of-a-climbing-team-will-roderick Classes have finished, and winter break is just starting. Over the past month, I’ve mostly been climbing indoors both at the gym on the Stanford campus and at Planet Granite in Sunnyvale, CA. Actually, just recently at Planet Granite, Andy Lamb and I saw Daniel Woods, Alex Johnson, and Kevin Jorgeson, who were teaching a clinic as part of Professional Climbers International. Andy and I have both been training hard, and we’ve also been taking interested students to the climbing gym. A couple days ago, we, along with another climbing buddy named Matthew, met with the director... ]]> Sat, 15 Dec 2012 05:22:00 -0500 13703 2012-12-15 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0986-1355548920.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12804-pci-clinic-san-diego-angela-payne http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12804-pci-clinic-san-diego-angela-payne Last weekend I hopped on another plane and headed West to instruct a PCI clinic at Mesa Rim Climbing Center in San Diego. This was my first time being involved in one of these events, so I was excited to see what they are all about. While the PCI (Professional Climbers International) has been around for a while, they have only started to offer youth and adult clinics in the past year. (For more info about the PCI visit www.proclimbers.com). Some of my friends had worked as instructors at a few of the first clinics,... ]]> Sun, 01 Apr 2012 19:16:00 -0400 12804 2012-04-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_photo-7-1333307794.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_photo-5-1333307794.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_photo-6-1333307794.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12633-a-piece-of-mind-sasha-digiulian http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12633-a-piece-of-mind-sasha-digiulian Last weekend I traveled to Seattle, WA to teach a PCI-operated clinic with Kevin Jorgeson and Steven Jeffery. I had never worked with PCI before so I did not know what to expect. I was impressed by their managerial and operating skills and I had a great time getting to know Kevin and Steven in the process. ]]> Tue, 14 Feb 2012 05:26:00 -0500 12633 2012-02-14 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0418-1329197180.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0372-1329197181.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0375-1329197182.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12602-pci-clinic-in-san-francisco-kevin-jorgeson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12602-pci-clinic-in-san-francisco-kevin-jorgeson Hey Bay Area Climbers! The PCI Clinic Series is coming back to San Francisco at Planet Granite! There are only a few spots left for Saturday's Youth Clinic and Adult Semi-Private lessons. Sunday is already SOLD OUT. This time, we will be having Steven Jeffery, Carlo Traversi, Beth Rodden and myself present to teach a 6-hour Youth Clinic and a 2-hour Adult Semi-Private lesson. All the details are below, but the short and sweet of it is: - The youth clinic is going to focus on competition preparation and strategy. With ABS Nationals right around... ]]> Tue, 07 Feb 2012 23:14:00 -0500 12602 2012-02-07 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_pci-sanfran-poster-jpg-1328656457.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_pci-sanfran-postcard-back-jpg-1328656458.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_pci-sanfran-postcard-front-jpg-1328656458.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12592-west-coastin-in-san-francisco-sasha-digiulian http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12592-west-coastin-in-san-francisco-sasha-digiulian This past week I have sampled some of America’s western sport climbing destinations including the VRG, Cathedral, and Moe’s Valley in Southern Utah, and also Jailhouse in the California Bay Area. I have not been at any of the areas for more than 2 days but I have really enjoyed experiencing the different crags and I know that I will certainly be returning as soon as I can. While I was at the VRG in Southern Utah I was filming with Keith Ladzinski and Andy Mann. Three Strings Media is putting together a Five Ten clip from the trip,... ]]> Sat, 04 Feb 2012 06:26:00 -0500 12592 2012-02-04 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_395272-10150658698020555-603835554-11295726-1210357276-n-1328336818.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0288-1328336818.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12539-the-adrift-project-giovanni-traversi http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12539-the-adrift-project-giovanni-traversi First, a little history. A few years back Kevin Jorgeson established one of the hardest boulder problems on the North Coast. This boulder problem is known as Stigmata, and Kevin gave it an opinion grade on 8a.nu of (V12). It was featured in Chuck Fryberger's film Pure, under the name The Blue Schist Project. The crux move of Stigmata requires grabbing a right hand quarter pad crimp and a left hand side pull, getting your feet up and making a close to full extension reach to a positive edge halfway up the 15 ft. boulder.... ]]> Sat, 21 Jan 2012 09:35:00 -0500 12539 2012-01-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12539_dscn1238-1327422703.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12539_dscn1223-1327422704.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12218-midwestern-autumn-alex-johnson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12218-midwestern-autumn-alex-johnson I briefly stopped back home in Wisconsin for a minute to attend a wedding during these last few hectic months, but the "doing" didn't quit. I saw another premier of Chuck Fryberger's newest flick "The Scene" at the Minneapolis showing. The difference this time was that my mother came along. Word of the wise to all of you out there, do not bring your mother to a movie featuring you. She will be obnoxiously proud... ]]> Thu, 27 Oct 2011 03:07:00 -0400 12218 2011-10-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG201110161356081half_1319684828.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG201110161359081half_1319684828.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12203-dawn-wall-project-on-el-cap-kevin-jorgeson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12203-dawn-wall-project-on-el-cap-kevin-jorgeson A little over a week ago, I sustained a season ending ankle injury while climbing on pitch 15 of the Dawn Wall project on El Cap. There's not much more to say than that. I'm extremely disappointed to not be on the wall right now, pursuing this dream project and supporting Tommy. ]]> Mon, 24 Oct 2011 23:14:38 -0400 12203 2011-10-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12203_2_1319498442.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12096-intro-to-autumn-2011-alex-johnson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12096-intro-to-autumn-2011-alex-johnson This Autumn for me has been the busiest one of my life. I kicked things off in early September in Sonoma, CA for a clinic instructors' course. Our goal was to tear down climbing; moves, techniques, training ideas, competition strategies, efficient teaching skills, all leading towards producing the best clinics possible. With the additional help of Beth Rodden, Emmy Surma, Rusty Klassen and Andrew McDermott we were able to come up with an incredible and unique clinic program that we could pack up and take with us like Cirque du Soleil. ]]> Mon, 03 Oct 2011 02:43:00 -0400 12096 2011-10-03 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_clinics_1317609802.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_8_1317609802.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_311722205759183929412295513633175096661101781n_1317609802.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_3109862057592879320122955136331750975127914321n_1317609802.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12065-five-ten-athlete-kevin-jorgeson-featured-on-adrenaline-lab http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12065-five-ten-athlete-kevin-jorgeson-featured-on-adrenaline-lab Discovery Channel's Adrenaline Lab recently featured Kevin Jorgeson. Kevin and Bear Grylls cover the challenges of climbing the 3000ft El Capitan and how to mentally prepare for other extreme challenges. ]]> Thu, 15 Sep 2011 19:34:01 -0400 12065 2011-09-15 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12065_degree1_1316116081.jpg