http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13698-petzl-roc-trip-and-beyond-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13698-petzl-roc-trip-and-beyond-jon-cardwell I just arrived in the States after a three week stint in South America. There were two plans layed out for this trip, the first being the 10th annual Petzl Roc Trip. I was fortunate enough to have been part of developing the Piedra Parada for the event back in March. I joined a small group from Petzl and others from Argentina to discover, bolt and clean new lines in the various rock formations that surround the Piedra. That first trip, even though not my first visit to South America, taught me a lot about myself and the unique... ]]> Wed, 12 Dec 2012 21:54:00 -0500 13698 2012-12-12 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_ba-from-the-air-1355349282.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_critter-friend-1-1355349282.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_2012-10-red-8141-1355349283.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_rrg-petzl-2-1355349283.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_esquel-childern-1355349283.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_-m3c7856-1355349283.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_rrg-1-1355349284.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13435-first-at-asethetic-invitational http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13435-first-at-asethetic-invitational Last weekend I was in Irvine, California to participate in the first competition at the new Aesthetic Climbing Gym in Lake Forest. I was asked to participate in this event by a great team of organizers about a month ago and decided that it would be well worth the trip. The event took place on Sunday, the grand opening of the gym itself. There would be two rounds, a semi final in the morning (which ended up to more a qualifier) and a finals round in the evening beginning at 5 p.m. I was fresh... ]]> Wed, 05 Sep 2012 20:56:00 -0400 13435 2012-09-05 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_podium-1346878585.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1451-1346878585.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0358-1346878586.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13357-the-life-of-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13357-the-life-of-cardwell Five Ten Elite Athlete Jon Cardwell epitomizes what it means to be a climber under the banner “Brand of the Brave”. Follow Cardwell through a day in his life as he talks about his deep passion for climbing and crushes a V13 in Mathew Winters Park. ]]> Tue, 14 Aug 2012 23:27:00 -0400 13357 2012-08-14 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13357_the-life-of-cardwell-01-1344987044.png http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13357_the-life-of-cardwell-02-1344987045.png http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13357_the-life-of-cardwell-03-1344987046.png http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13357_the-life-of-cardwell-04-1344987047.png http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13357_the-life-of-cardwell-05-1344987047.png http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13357_the-life-of-cardwell-06-1344987048.png http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13082-bad-girls-club-514d-fourth-ascent-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13082-bad-girls-club-514d-fourth-ascent-jon-cardwell In 2010 Joe Kinder bolted a line in the Wicked cave which he dubbed Bad Girls Club. I first tried the route last June with Dave Graham. At first we were skeptical, but then after a couple days we had the moves figured out. For one reason or another I left it unfinished for the season; the boulders at RMNP and different crags were calling my name. Shortly after, young Matty Hong completed the route for its first ascent and suggested 9a (5.14d)which would make it the first of its grade in the canyon.... ]]> Tue, 22 May 2012 18:23:00 -0400 13082 2012-05-22 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bgc-1337711035.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_lungfish-direct-1337711035.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12980-clear-creek-canyon-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12980-clear-creek-canyon-jon-cardwell I've been climbing in Clear Creek Canyon lately. The weather has been almost perfect everyday since I returned from Argentina so I've been taking advantage. Last week I spent most of my time at the New River Wall. This crag is mostly known for the classic Daniel Wood's boulder Dark Waters V13 and an older 5.13a route Sonic Youth. However, during the last couple years the wall has been revisited by Brian Kimball. He worked hard throughout the course of two? season to develop a number of classic routes that climb throughout the overhang... ]]> Thu, 19 Apr 2012 18:32:00 -0400 12980 2012-04-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3593-1334860323.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3619-1334860323.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3322-1334860324.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12858-circadian-rhythm-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12858-circadian-rhythm-jon-cardwell I've known about Circadian Rhythm ever since I've been visiting Colorado for climbing. Its notorious for its intricate and technical moves leading to a large, powerful jump to the lip on Swiss-Style granite. Located in the middle of the popular 420 boulders it remained a project for years until a young first-ascent-maestro David Graham stumbled upon it in 2001. He solved the moves and claimed the first ascent naming it Circadian Rhythm for one reason or another, perhaps for completing the last obvious line on the boulder. None the less, it has stood the test... ]]> Tue, 17 Apr 2012 03:10:00 -0400 12858 2012-04-17 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_circadian-1334632250.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12841-argentina-part-one-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12841-argentina-part-one-jon-cardwell I first got word from some climbers about Argentina a few years ago.  One of them is my friend Cameron Maier from Colorado.  He traveled there a couple years ago mostly to explore the beautiful country and experience the culture.  He said the mix of big mountains, small vintage villages, and daily asados (BBQ's) was more than worth the visit.  It wasn't until this January, aside from seeing news about Cerro Torre, that I heard about Argentina and its mass potential for climbing. ]]> Wed, 11 Apr 2012 23:36:00 -0400 12841 2012-04-11 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_valle-in-afternoon-1334187393.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_piedra-parada-in-afternoon-1334187393.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_buenos-aires-1334187394.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_valle-2-1334187394.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nick-and-marcos-2-1334187394.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_buenos-aires-2-1334187394.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12776-climb-so-ill-jamie-emerson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12776-climb-so-ill-jamie-emerson Five Ten athlete Jon Cardwell and I made a quick trip to an amazing new facility in St. Louis, Missouri a few weeks ago. I had received a phone call from a friend of mine, David Chancellor, about coming out and helping get Climb So Ill up and running. Setting jobs like this are always enjoyable because I get to share and teach my skill to a younger generation of climbers. Jon is one of the best setters in the country in my opinion, and it is always a pleasure to work with someone who shares the same... ]]> Fri, 23 Mar 2012 22:09:00 -0400 12776 2012-03-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0798-1332540561.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0805-1332540562.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0814-1332540563.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12719-abs-13-nationals-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12719-abs-13-nationals-jon-cardwell After a six-year hiatus from competing in the ABS National I decided in January that I would set aside some time to prepare for the event. I took time off competing in the event for a number of reasons, the main being that I simply don’t take training in the gym serious enough. To be honest, I’ve tried to regain focus in the past but I’m easily distracted and like many in my position I bailed. For example, bouldering outside even if it’s snowing or climbing in Spain since I’m in Spain, etc. were always more... ]]> Fri, 09 Mar 2012 21:11:00 -0500 12719 2012-03-09 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_abs-nationals-1331327501.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12691-backstage-at-the-2012-bouldering-nationals-chris-schulte http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12691-backstage-at-the-2012-bouldering-nationals-chris-schulte The 2012 Bouldering Nationals, held in Colorado Springs, Colorado, saw one of the strongest fields that North America could have provided. I was fortunate enough to score a press pass for the event, and got a pretty edifying, behind-the-scenes perspective on what is going through the minds of a number of Five Ten athletes as they line up time and effort for the annual showdown. ]]> Fri, 02 Mar 2012 22:06:00 -0500 12691 2012-03-02 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12691_cs-2-1330731146.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12199-2011-yank-n-yard-in-albuquerque-nm-carlo-traversi http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12199-2011-yank-n-yard-in-albuquerque-nm-carlo-traversi Last weekend I had the opportunity to take a break from setting Spot Bouldering Series comps and finally compete in a bouldering event.  My schedule for the last 6 months didn’t allow me to compete in any of the UBC events, so it was nice to finally throw down with a little competition pressure. ]]> Mon, 24 Oct 2011 04:47:00 -0400 12199 2011-10-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_GSM2290_1319431664.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_gsm1034_1319431665.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_gsm1492_1319431665.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_gsm1861_1319431665.jpeg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12196-five-ten-in-china-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12196-five-ten-in-china-jon-cardwell Right now, I'm enjoying the last moments for a few weeks at my apartment in Boulder, Colorado. I'm about to drive to Denver to catch a flight to California to meet up with Five Ten's own Kevin Newell and Beau Kahler. Final destination, the Getu Valley China for the annual Petzl Roctrip. I've posted about the trip before but only in the last few hours has it hit me that I am actually traveling to Asia. I've only been once, or twice I suppose, when I traveled to Turkey in 2005 and 2008, but I... ]]> Sat, 22 Oct 2011 20:46:00 -0400 12196 2011-10-22 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_2946101015088466558059469759559321252364339575262n_1319316375.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12185-15th-annual-yank-n-yard-in-albuquerque-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12185-15th-annual-yank-n-yard-in-albuquerque-jon-cardwell Last weekend I headed down to Albuquerque for the 15th Annual Yank-N-Yard competition.  I remember competing in this event in my first few years of climbing.  I feel like it was this event in the past that shaped my idea of competition climbing long before USA Climbing, the pca and UBC.  I guess everyone has their own first real competition experience, professional or not at the time, this was mine. ]]> Thu, 20 Oct 2011 04:26:00 -0400 12185 2011-10-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12185_gsm2146edit_1319216365.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12169-reno-take-2-and-lead-wc-alex-johnson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12169-reno-take-2-and-lead-wc-alex-johnson I thought I submitted a post about Reno, but something went wrong! So here I am writing the whole thing again... Which is alright, because I've done a few more things since Reno, anyways. :) ]]> Mon, 17 Oct 2011 04:05:00 -0400 12169 2011-10-17 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_30146310150462713216102788821101108705821351132671n_1318824314.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG201110011917221_1318824314.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_302407260422420659927131164916919012680216240132643n_1318824314.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_2991222604260506595641311649169190126803001908463002n_1318824314.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_310772260426390659530131164916919012680309322658512n_1318824314.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12122-commrow-grand-opening-in-reno-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12122-commrow-grand-opening-in-reno-jon-cardwell Last weekend I was in Reno for the grand opening of one of the most unique climbing facilities I have ever seen. The building, CommRow hosts the world tallest outdoor climbing wall. Formally a casino called The Fitzgerald, CommRow renovated the building into an entertainment facility complete with multiple restaurants, bars, coffee shops and even a venue for music. On the second floor there is large room filled with two high quality freestanding boulders built by Vertical Solutions, the same company who constructed the walls for the UBC and ABS National competitions. The lead wall was... ]]> Tue, 11 Oct 2011 05:36:00 -0400 12122 2011-10-11 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_31682110150462718906102788821101108706641611700954n_1318311419.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_3156681015046271546110278882110110870611628450586n_1318311419.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_3129102018520232186041139919886712754700551001012889n_1318311419.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_30777110150462722866102788821101108707412114058955a_1318311419.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_30146310150462713216102788821101108705821351132671n_1318311419.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_300125193724104031396113991988671275446747155487303n_1318311419.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12106-commrow-grand-opening-and-tahoe-climbing http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12106-commrow-grand-opening-and-tahoe-climbing This past weekend I traveled up to Reno, Nevada to attend the grand opening of a new gym called CommRow. Boasting one of the best bouldering areas in the country, (thanks to our good friends over at Vertical Solutions) the only official 15 meter speed climbing wall in North America, and the tallest climbing wall in the world, (over 165 feet of vertical climbing) this gym definitely lives up to its expectations as one of the top climbing gyms in the world. ]]> Thu, 06 Oct 2011 00:17:00 -0400 12106 2011-10-06 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_3403702049421362416061071815626843315322791320511172o_1317860235.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12091-commrow-opens-on-oct-1-with-climbing-demos-clinics-live-music-and-food http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12091-commrow-opens-on-oct-1-with-climbing-demos-clinics-live-music-and-food RENO, Nev. - Presenting the world’s tallest climbing wall on Saturday, October 1 is just one component of the Grand Opening celebration for CommRow, Reno’s first “Urban Adventure Destination”. Downtown’s first nonsmoking, nongaming, pet-friendly property will showcase many entertainment facets, full schedule below. Please Note: North Virginia Street will be closed between 2nd Street and Commercial Row between 8 a.m. and 11 p.m. Saturday, October 1 ]]> Thu, 29 Sep 2011 21:13:45 -0400 12091 2011-09-29 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12091_WallLoRes_1317331081.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12091_Wall929_1317331082.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12091_BouldersLoRes_1317331082.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12091_KarlClimb_1317331083.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12003-the-island-part-1-dave-graham-and-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12003-the-island-part-1-dave-graham-and-jon-cardwell Five Ten athletes Dave Graham and Jon Cardwell give a little climbing instruction in Rifle, CO, in this first behind the scenes look at The Island. ]]> Thu, 25 Aug 2011 22:43:00 -0400 12003 2011-08-25 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_TheIslandPart1_1314312201.jpg