http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14091-motivation-hans-christian-montenegro http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14091-motivation-hans-christian-montenegro Motivated?What is motivation?Motivation is a psychological state that arouses an organism to action toward a desired goal. Motivation can be extrinsic or intrinsic. In the first case, you do the action because you will receive something in return. In contrast, if you do the action because you feel free and happy and not to receive any physical thing, that would be considered internal motivation.Here, I want to show what do I do when I am motivated.In this video you can see me wake up at 6:20 A.M. because the regional bus to go to Val-David leaves at 7:30. I... ]]> Mon, 20 May 2013 19:40:00 -0400 14091 2013-05-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_motivation-1369078854.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14042-pan-american-continental-championships-2013-jacqueline-harmony http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14042-pan-american-continental-championships-2013-jacqueline-harmony Dante and I had the great pleasure of attending the Pan American Continental Championships in Tucuman, Argentina. We got a chance to experience some of the best Dulce De Leche Crepes and some of the worst flooding from torrential rains in Buenos Aires before we met up with the rest of the U.S. DH team for the final leg of the journey out to the Tucuman. The race course came down a grazing, high desert, field outside the town of Tafi De Valle. It was somewhat similar to Napa Valley dirt (Excellent wines come from this region) and the... ]]> Wed, 24 Apr 2013 20:43:00 -0400 14042 2013-04-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1351-1366836204.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3668-1366836205.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1323-1366836206.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3680-1366836206.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3664-1366836207.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_149254-10151535219284394-748369400-n-1366836208.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1243-1366836209.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13981-the-ninja-spirit-guntram-joerg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13981-the-ninja-spirit-guntram-joerg Tenerife being an awesome spot for rope climbing is well known. With Bouldering we are talking about a lot of uncertainty. Doing his homework of preparation and planning GU (Guntram Joerg) quickly realized that this island had already rejected the brave ascent attempts of many strong guys and girls. It was only after short scouting-session with Walter Gollner - THE austrian-stranded-in-tenerife-local that GU realized that there still was loads of potential to crush. GU got to work and it was only a fews days that the first hits on his ticklist - some of them boulder problems that had... ]]> Thu, 28 Mar 2013 18:39:00 -0400 13981 2013-03-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_me-media-naranja-8a-1364495952.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_201302-teneriffa-1175-1364495952.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_201302-teneriffa-1068-1364495952.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13962-youth-abs-14-nationals-what-i-learned-peyton-mccallister http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13962-youth-abs-14-nationals-what-i-learned-peyton-mccallister I battled my first nationals of the year in a new division, male youth C. I ended up in 17 but learned a lot about resting between climbs and knowing when to stop to prepare for the next route. My coach said I climbed very smart. We knew nationals was going to be a struggle because I have put on 20 to 25 pounds since last year. I have gotten stockier while everyone else got taller. Since getting back from nationals I am working hard on nutrition, (eatting 5 times a day), Strength training and core/balance exercises along with... ]]> Tue, 19 Mar 2013 03:32:00 -0400 13962 2013-03-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20130301-1749-1363663924.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13942-abs-14-youth-nationals-greig-seitz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13942-abs-14-youth-nationals-greig-seitz Last weekend I competed in my first ABS national competition. This was the first national bouldering competition I had attended. Going into this competition, I knew that it would be a great experience. I also learned about what I need to improve for next year. The qualifying round as well as semi-finals went fairly well. I was trying to conserve as much energy as I could. This strategy seemed to work since I made finals with plenty of skin and energy. The finals problems were amazing. The first boulder problem was a technical slab climb. Every hold... ]]> Fri, 08 Mar 2013 18:38:00 -0500 13942 2013-03-08 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0013-1362767914.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0032-1362767916.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0012-1362767917.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0062-1362767919.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13923-la-session-de-kathy http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13923-la-session-de-kathy Val-David has become almost a home for me. I really love this place. There are many good problems, some of them easy and some very hard. But the amazing thing is that all the problems have something to teach to you. I think that’s the real reason why I climb.I don’t believe in a universal level of climbing. For example, just because someone can do a V8 doesn't necessarily mean they can do a V6 or V7. The best approach to training is not just improving a general climbing level, but improving one or two specific types of... ]]> Thu, 28 Feb 2013 15:20:00 -0500 13923 2013-02-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_session-de-kathy-1362064837.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13905-bernd-zangerl-same-samebut-different http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13905-bernd-zangerl-same-samebut-different Wanderlust… it is a strange concept. The desire to discover the unknown Same, same....but different Wanderlust… it is a strange concept. The desire to discover the unknown… far away places…What is this? It is an attraction to distant, random places on our Planet. This is an emotion that I am very familiar with. Yet, I am on the search for something very specific in these distant places. Maybe it is my inquisitive nature that is the catalyst to this desire. I am repeatedly pushed to these wonderful and alluring places. What am I really searching... ]]> Thu, 21 Feb 2013 14:14:00 -0500 13905 2013-02-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_rd-120923-bzi-009348-1361456051.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_rd-120903-bzi-000389-1-1361456051.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13903-greig-seitz-climbs-bambi-8av12-greig-seitz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13903-greig-seitz-climbs-bambi-8av12-greig-seitz Recently, I went up to Matthew’s Winter Park. The area up there has mainly two boulders; the Hillside Boulder and the Millennium Boulder. As I went up to this new area, I only had one boulder in mind. This boulder is called Bambi. Bambi is an amazing roof in Matthew’s Winter Park. This boulder consists of multiple big moves through a steep roof. The redpoint crux is a long move to a fairly shallow two finger pocket. After I climbed through the pocket, I climbed through a technical slab to top it out. I was super psyched... ]]> Wed, 20 Feb 2013 03:10:00 -0500 13903 2013-02-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bambi-v12-2-1361329844.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bambi-v12-1-1361329844.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13815-competition-climbing-2013-greig-seitz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13815-competition-climbing-2013-greig-seitz This year I have been focusing on climbing in competitions as well as climbing outside. Since I can still compete in the ABS youth series, I have been trying to stay motivated to train for gym climbing. It is hard to maintain a sense of motivation to climb inside while the temps have been so good outside. In January, I went to the ABS Youth Divisional Championship in Tucson, Arizona. During this competition, I met many awesome climbers. The excitement level was high with all my friends and competitors supporting each-other. I... ]]> Wed, 13 Feb 2013 04:42:00 -0500 13815 2013-02-13 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_photo-1-1360730563.PNG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_photo-1360730564.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13801-vertical-rock-climbing-gym-hans-christian-montenegro http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13801-vertical-rock-climbing-gym-hans-christian-montenegro This is my third competition of the season. There were 63 climbers in the open category. This time the foreign climbers came from Toronto, New Brunswick and U.S.A. I met a very nice man, Josh Larson, who is on the U.S.A. climbing team.The competition had 50 problems for the qualifying round. The qualifying round was hard because the level of the climbers was higher than the last competition. I was amazed to flash problem 50 and this made me very pleased with the qualifying round. After three hours of climbing, I completed six problems beyond problem 41. This score... ]]> Wed, 06 Feb 2013 16:11:00 -0500 13801 2013-02-06 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_vertical-1360167086.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13748-take-5-with-five-ten-athlete-andrea-cartas-colette-mcinerney http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13748-take-5-with-five-ten-athlete-andrea-cartas-colette-mcinerney Andrea Cartas is 30 years old and has lived in Madrid for seven years, though she is originally from Andalucía, where she started climbing at age 15. Andrea is involved with many facets of climbing from the competition realm, to outdoor climbing. In 2009 and 2010 she won the Gané la Copa de España and came in 2nd in 2012. Last year she ticked her hardest red-point White Zombie, 8c (14b) in the Baltzola Cave in Basque Country in Spain. To add to her already impressive tick-list, Andrea has racked up 13 routes rated 8b (13d) and harder,... ]]> Wed, 09 Jan 2013 13:59:00 -0500 13748 2013-01-09 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_120831-white-zombie-baltzola-andrea-cartas-012-1357739960.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0655-1357739960.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0662-1357739960.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0664-1357739961.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_white-carlosp-1357739961.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13740-why-is-it-important-to-share-information-hans-christian-montenegro http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13740-why-is-it-important-to-share-information-hans-christian-montenegro Some weeks ago I went to “Cour du Roi” in Val-David. I realized that there are many potential boulders to do. But, I don’t understand why people do not come to the sector “Cour du Roi.” I think the problem is due to not sharing enough information with other climbers, and they simply don’t know enough about this place.Why is it important to circulate information about a climbing sector?Improve and maintain the climbing sector.It is important that many climbers go to the sector to climb. When the people climb in the sector, the sector is cleaned, the problems and... ]]> Sun, 06 Jan 2013 17:30:00 -0500 13740 2013-01-06 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_photo-cour-du-roi-1357493408.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13668-the-competition-season-has-arrived-hans-christian-montenegro http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13668-the-competition-season-has-arrived-hans-christian-montenegro The competition season has arrived. I have decided to do five competitions. The first one was in Montreal at the gym Allez Up. There was a large number of participants. I think it was the biggest competition in the last two years or even more. In the open category there were 102 competitors. This is a huge number and the gym Allez Up managed it with no trouble. I saw some climber friends from Toronto, kingston and Ottawa. It is always nice to spend time with your friends while you climb.The competition had 60 problems for the qualifying round.... ]]> Thu, 29 Nov 2012 17:13:00 -0500 13668 2012-11-29 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_tdb-hans-2-1354209227.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13637-fear-and-loathing http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13637-fear-and-loathing A couple of months back I was bouldering in Magic Wood, Switzerland. I jumped off a boulder and landed totally normally onto relatively flat mats. As I hit the ground I heard a little snap in my leg.. It was broken. 3 months off spent training, a month just climbing on rope and I am now back bouldering. Its been a hard journey and it's still not over.... ]]> Tue, 20 Nov 2012 13:16:00 -0500 13637 2012-11-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1606small-1353417373.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1677-editsmall-1353417373.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13636-the-performance-phase-hans-christian-montenegro http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13636-the-performance-phase-hans-christian-montenegro I have finished my specific training and now I am in the performance phase. The most important part in this phase is to let muscles restore their new shape because after training, the whole body is tired and performing in this condition is not ideal. But you have to be careful because too much rest can have a negative impact on the results of your training. So, this phase is composed of rest, climbing and maintenance.Rest:For the first week, you just have to climb. You can do small climbing sessions (2 hours) and don’t try to overload your body... ]]> Tue, 20 Nov 2012 00:29:00 -0500 13636 2012-11-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_papillon-1353371361.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13601-psychedelia-2012-greg-seitz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13601-psychedelia-2012-greg-seitz October was an amazing month. The temps are finally starting to drop during October. Also, Competition season is just around the corner. During this past summer, I started training for competition season and also for climbing outside. Training anywhere from ten to twenty hours each week, I started to push through to the next level. ]]> Mon, 05 Nov 2012 21:02:00 -0500 13601 2012-11-05 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_photo-2-1352149366.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_photo-1-1352149366.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13557-specific-training-2012-hans-christian-montenegro http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13557-specific-training-2012-hans-christian-montenegro What does “specific training” mean to me? After two months of general training, I was too tired to start my specific training, so I took a week rest with small sessions of climbing. Then, I started my three weeks of specific training. What does “specific training” mean to me? For me, there is one main objective of specific training. It is to transfer the strength gained in general training to your climbing. How do you do that? I think you cannot make a direct transfer. You have to pass the force gained into your climbing... ]]> Fri, 19 Oct 2012 17:45:00 -0400 13557 2012-10-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_specific-t-1350668715.jpg