http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13598-edyta-ropek-4th-in-world-cup-2012-edyta-ropek http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13598-edyta-ropek-4th-in-world-cup-2012-edyta-ropek Competition came to an end in the speed world cup 2012 series. Five Ten athlete Edyta Ropek after last event in Mokpo was classified at fourth position in WC ranking. She is the best non Russian athlete throughout the all cycle. This was also for her breaking through season, as she managed to climb in 8,90 second during WCh in Paris – it’s her personal best, and one off the countless results in the world.   ]]> Mon, 05 Nov 2012 13:48:00 -0500 13598 2012-11-05 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20121021-07-1352123332.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20121021-02-1352123333.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20121021-01-1352123333.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20121021-03-1352123334.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3871-1352123334.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13588-competition-season-emily-dudley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13588-competition-season-emily-dudley In September the ABS competition season started. I kicked off the year setting for a local competition at Miramont Lifestyle Fitness. As one of the route-setters I love comp season. ]]> Wed, 31 Oct 2012 03:24:00 -0400 13588 2012-10-31 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_crush-festa-1351653846.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dscn0914a-1351653846.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13585-comp-season-aicacia-young http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13585-comp-season-aicacia-young Comp season has officially begun! A couple weeks ago, I participated in a bouldering and sport climbing comp at UTSA. It’s a fairly small gym, but one of the walls is 54 feet tall, so it’s a nice opportunity for some endurance training. They dedicated a whole week to climbing, calling it Climbapalooza. It was a 4-day competition with about 35 routes/problems, and a complimentary showing of Reel Rock 7 halfway through the week. It was an absolute blast, and I really surprised myself with some of the problems. I’m not exceptionally dynamic or capable of utilizing slopers, but... ]]> Sun, 28 Oct 2012 22:04:00 -0400 13585 2012-10-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_665236-4869316579427-1288210707-o-1351461885.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_133248-4869644947636-459600420-o-1351461886.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13565-psychedelia-matt-lubar http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13565-psychedelia-matt-lubar Fall is here in Colorado. The leaves are changing and a chilly breeze inhabits the air. This can only mean one thing: Psychedelia is on it's way! For those of you who don't know, Psychedelia is The Spot Gym's annual halloween themed glow in the dark black light bouldering competition and the second of four comps in the Spot Bouldering Series. Every year The Spot replaces all the regular light bulbs with black lights and begins painting hundreds of holds with fluorescent paint. They also bring in a handful of people to create tape art. It's amazing what people... ]]> Wed, 24 Oct 2012 04:25:00 -0400 13565 2012-10-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_spot-psychadelia-1351052750.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_psychadelia-3-1351052750.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13544-edyta-ropek-second-in-xining-speed-world-cup http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13544-edyta-ropek-second-in-xining-speed-world-cup The fifth edition of this year’s speed World Cup was held in amazing setting for Upland of Qinghai Plateau in China. Edyta wasn’t a favorite of that event. Qualifying round was a big challeng for her, during first run as a result of bad belaying she accidentally grabbed the rope, causing a slow-down run. She obtained time 9,56 seconds. In second race she unfortunately fell off the wall. She was classified in 10th place. The final spacing is the darkest of the possible scenarios. In all final races she was spaced with the strongest athletes in... ]]> Tue, 16 Oct 2012 02:19:00 -0400 13544 2012-10-16 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20121015-01-m-1350353986.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20121015-02-m-1350353986.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20121015-03-m-1350353987.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20121015-04-m-1350353987.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20121015-05-m-1350353987.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20121015-06-m-1350353987.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20121015-07-m-1350353988.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13530-summer-sweat-fest-finale-2012-eric-sethna http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13530-summer-sweat-fest-finale-2012-eric-sethna Hello again! The 2011/2012 competition season has finally come to a close – just in time for the first Tour de Bloc of season 10! The Summer Sweat Fest season wrapped up with the finale at True North Climbing a few weeks ago. I had been looking forward to the comp for weeks after having a ton of fun at last year’s finale event. The setters and organizers also had surprises up their sleeve for the comp format this year, which both excited and intimidated me. I managed to win all the Sweat Fest comps... ]]> Thu, 11 Oct 2012 20:31:00 -0400 13530 2012-10-11 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_259062-10152101086245357-953545596-o-1-1349987480.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13529-recovery-work-erica-carlson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13529-recovery-work-erica-carlson For any athlete, recovery is incredibly important. Without it you risk injury or further worsening a pre-existing condition. Sadly, it’s the one area we all seem to actively overlook. Normally, I see a fellow climber that does my physio and some needling work. I also work with a former competitive gymnast turned climber for massage therapy. I feel it’s important to be choosy with who does your recovery work and to know what someone is working on, how they plan to work on it and why. Asking questions is the easiest way to ensure you are being given proper... ]]> Thu, 11 Oct 2012 14:28:00 -0400 13529 2012-10-11 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-20121002-00017-1349965702.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-20121002-00016-1349965703.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13527-portland-boulder-rally-oregons-got-the-psych-nina-williams http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13527-portland-boulder-rally-oregons-got-the-psych-nina-williams Out of all the competitions this season, I must say that the setting for this year's PBR earned top points for creativity and interesting vagueness. I was a little nervous after our preview since it wasn't the difficulty of the problem that was intimidating; it was figuring out how to even climb it! We weren't familiar with the sweet spots on many giant volumes that dominated the walls and there were random holds we may or may not have needed; we truly forged into the unknown! Once I was on the problems however, everything more or... ]]> Thu, 11 Oct 2012 01:17:00 -0400 13527 2012-10-11 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_pbr-nina-1349918253.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_pbr-alex-1349918253.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_pbr-fritz-1349918254.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13501-plastic-and-rock-nicholas-milburn http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13501-plastic-and-rock-nicholas-milburn Last weekend I flew out to Seattle to compete in the Unified Boulder Championship at Stone Gardens. First thing that I need to point out is how organized the UBC guys are. They emailed a packet out to the competitors that was the best comp packet I have ever seen. I didn't even know such things existed! They even gave the competitors a free Adidas jackets. Stone Gardens is a brand new gym, and its newness definitely shows. Brand new walls, brand new holds and brand new mats. The first part of the gym I saw was the isolation... ]]> Tue, 02 Oct 2012 02:55:00 -0400 13501 2012-10-02 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_seattle-1349146556.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13500-why-6th-place-is-the-best-nina-williams http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13500-why-6th-place-is-the-best-nina-williams The UBC competition last weekend was fun and a bit sentimental for me in a few ways. The producer of UBC, Pete Ward, has been putting on amazing events for the past 10+ years, including but not limited to the Gravity Brawls, the Nor’Easter, and the rooftop competitions during the OR Tradeshow in Utah. I’ve come to love how much of a show these events turn out to be with motivated crowds, creative setting, decent cash purses, entertaining lights, music, and an overall air of professionalism. The fields of these comps have always been stacked with a lot... ]]> Mon, 01 Oct 2012 22:07:00 -0400 13500 2012-10-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_girls-preview-1349129242.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nina-finals-4-1349129242.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_womens-top-3-1349129242.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_finals-lineup-1349129242.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_mens-top-3-1349129242.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nina-finals-2-1349129243.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13488-ubc-championships-sbc-pro-seattle-alex-johnson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13488-ubc-championships-sbc-pro-seattle-alex-johnson SEATTLE!!! It was awesome to have such a HUGE Pro event in the Pacific Northwest. We haven't had a Pro Bouldering Competition there in my lifetime, and it was awesome to break free from the typical geographical locations. Seattle was awesome, it's a cool city. We had GREAT weather (surprisingly enough). The Unified Bouldering Championships Competition was held at Stone Gardens, a new gym that just opened up in Seattle. I have no doubt that after we cleared all our comp mess out of the way Stone Gardens is going to be one amazing bouldering gym. There... ]]> Wed, 26 Sep 2012 19:38:00 -0400 13488 2012-09-26 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_408526-439328239446220-116700069-n-1348688325.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_419567-439327226112988-1198618567-n-1348688325.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_388968-439327436112967-4101401-n-1348688325.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13480-sbc-pro-seattle-angela-payne http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13480-sbc-pro-seattle-angela-payne This weekend I traveled to Seattle to compete in the Seattle Bouldering Challenge Pro Competition. The event was put on in collaboration with the UBC and was hosted by Stone Gardens. I had never been to this facility before, and I must say I was immediately impressed with the extensive bouldering terrain the gym had to offer. I flew to Seattle just two days after returning from Paris, so I was a bit weary from travel when day one of the comp rolled around. Qualifiers went well, however, and I (barely) managed... ]]> Mon, 24 Sep 2012 05:59:00 -0400 13480 2012-09-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_photo-14-1348466373.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13478-sbc-pro-natasha-barnes http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13478-sbc-pro-natasha-barnes Yesterday was the qualification round for the comp. Two days earlier I woke up with severe shoulder pain. I frantically searched for a sports chiro that could help before the comp. I found a fellow alumnus from Palmer at Kinetic Sports Rehab in Seattle to look at my shoulder for me. He thought that my issue was a possible partial thickness tear of supraspintus but after talking with usual chiro at home we decided it must be bursitis. I couldn't lift my arm at all the day before the comp and I thought I wouldn't be able to compete.... ]]> Sat, 22 Sep 2012 22:34:00 -0400 13478 2012-09-22 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13478_image1-1348606260.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13469-world-championship-paris-2012-toma-binter http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13469-world-championship-paris-2012-toma-binter Few days ago ended the largest and most prestigious competition of the year. I was lucky that I could be part of it. After disappointment in World Cups of this year I was decided to give my best. Definitely I went home with far better feeling about my climbing. ]]> Wed, 19 Sep 2012 18:27:00 -0400 13469 2012-09-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-8253-1348079228.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-8445-1348079228.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13435-first-at-asethetic-invitational http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13435-first-at-asethetic-invitational Last weekend I was in Irvine, California to participate in the first competition at the new Aesthetic Climbing Gym in Lake Forest. I was asked to participate in this event by a great team of organizers about a month ago and decided that it would be well worth the trip. The event took place on Sunday, the grand opening of the gym itself. There would be two rounds, a semi final in the morning (which ended up to more a qualifier) and a finals round in the evening beginning at 5 p.m. I was fresh... ]]> Wed, 05 Sep 2012 20:56:00 -0400 13435 2012-09-05 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_podium-1346878585.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1451-1346878585.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0358-1346878586.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13432-busy-summer http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13432-busy-summer I am travelling a lot lately! And I like it! I was in Squamish for one month this summer and had a super good time with a bunch of my friends. It was my 4th summer there and I managed to climb some projects of my own. I started my trip by trying the crimpy test piece When Harry Met. A v12 problem consisting of only few moves on super thin holds. It gave me some trouble since it’s not a type of problem I’m use to do. After trying it for a couple sessions I had... ]]> Tue, 04 Sep 2012 23:06:00 -0400 13432 2012-09-04 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_defender-1346799965.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_defender-1346799965.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_ride-1346799965.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_imga0056-1346799965.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_imga0061-1346799966.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_imga0028-1346799967.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_imga0027-1346799968.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13425-beach-boulder-fest-francesca-metcalf http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13425-beach-boulder-fest-francesca-metcalf Not long ago was the Beach and Boulder Fest at MetroRock North in Newburyport. It was a regular, small comp- with a twist. The redpoint at the beginning went as usual, with some interesting problems and some psyched local climbers. It was great being able to climb with my sisters again as well as see many of the climbers that I grew up with that I hadn't been able to see all year. It was a pretty chill comp- my favorite kind- where everyone works together to get psyched and send. I was really excited to hear that both... ]]> Sun, 02 Sep 2012 20:26:00 -0400 13425 2012-09-02 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_beach-boulder-1346617560.jpeg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13423-goodbye-summer-hello-sendtember-dustin-glasner http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13423-goodbye-summer-hello-sendtember-dustin-glasner Well hello there! This is my first blog post here on the Five Ten community site, and I'm stoked to be here. First, a quick introduction. My name is Dustin Glasner, and I'm a climber from the DC Metro Area. I'm 24 years old and have been climbing for about two years, and I got serious about it and started training about a year ago. I work at Earth Treks in Rockville, and I climb there 5 or 6 times a week. I also work a full time job as a biologist, but that's a different story.... ]]> Sun, 02 Sep 2012 02:17:00 -0400 13423 2012-09-02 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_287902-3479741712165-507119959-o-1346552265.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_p8050696-1346552265.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13399-training-for-paris-delaney-miller http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13399-training-for-paris-delaney-miller 15 more days! Then I leave for Paris to compete in this year’s Climbing World Championship! I have been climbing 5-6 days a week and cross training by running almost every day. It’s been tough, but all I can think about is the possibility of making semis this year. ]]> Sun, 26 Aug 2012 23:28:00 -0400 13399 2012-08-26 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_p8253742-1346023680.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13392-prepping-for-the-2012-2013-comp-season-erica-carlson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13392-prepping-for-the-2012-2013-comp-season-erica-carlson I’ve spent a lot of time lately thinking about the upcoming comp season. This past year was hugely successful for me. I placed 8th in the Canadian National Bouldering Championship, 8th overall in Canada and got to attend my first world cup event. (Oh, and of course joined the Five Ten Team!!!) I learned a lot from my coach and teammates that I trained with. The biggest success of all was that I worked really hard at being open to listening to others and what they felt I was doing wrong. Constructive criticism. When I was having a hard... ]]> Fri, 24 Aug 2012 16:30:00 -0400 13392 2012-08-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_vir-3474-1345825809.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_421268-10150627720928421-1604528538-n-1345825810.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_466270-10150908983297961-704284807-o-1345825810.jpg