http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13908-rope-season-nick-bradley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13908-rope-season-nick-bradley The best part of the year is back: Rope season. It's finally time to start training for sport to get out to this year's IFSC World Youth Championships. This year should be good because last year was such an improvement, and I'm a lot more motivated to take back my National Champion title. This year I have decided to take more effort in trying actual routes at local crags, and hop on some 14's whether they look possible or not, just to help with sequencing on harder routes. A local crag called Jailhouse is about 2 hours away from... ]]> Fri, 22 Feb 2013 06:51:00 -0500 13908 2013-02-22 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_665639-435922116464281-1718176446-o-1361515867.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13907-competition-nutrition-abs-nationals-14-aicacia-young http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13907-competition-nutrition-abs-nationals-14-aicacia-young Although bouldering is a high-intensity power sport, bouldering competitions often also require a great deal of endurance. For this reason, it’s best to prepare for bouldering comps the same way you would for a marathon or triathlon, via carbohydrate loading. The main things to consider before any sporting event are what to eat before, during and after exercise. ]]> Thu, 21 Feb 2013 21:17:00 -0500 13907 2013-02-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-20120523-101654-1361481435.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13905-bernd-zangerl-same-samebut-different http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13905-bernd-zangerl-same-samebut-different Wanderlust… it is a strange concept. The desire to discover the unknown Same, same....but different Wanderlust… it is a strange concept. The desire to discover the unknown… far away places…What is this? It is an attraction to distant, random places on our Planet. This is an emotion that I am very familiar with. Yet, I am on the search for something very specific in these distant places. Maybe it is my inquisitive nature that is the catalyst to this desire. I am repeatedly pushed to these wonderful and alluring places. What am I really searching... ]]> Thu, 21 Feb 2013 14:14:00 -0500 13905 2013-02-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_rd-120923-bzi-009348-1361456051.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_rd-120903-bzi-000389-1-1361456051.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13903-greig-seitz-climbs-bambi-8av12-greig-seitz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13903-greig-seitz-climbs-bambi-8av12-greig-seitz Recently, I went up to Matthew’s Winter Park. The area up there has mainly two boulders; the Hillside Boulder and the Millennium Boulder. As I went up to this new area, I only had one boulder in mind. This boulder is called Bambi. Bambi is an amazing roof in Matthew’s Winter Park. This boulder consists of multiple big moves through a steep roof. The redpoint crux is a long move to a fairly shallow two finger pocket. After I climbed through the pocket, I climbed through a technical slab to top it out. I was super psyched... ]]> Wed, 20 Feb 2013 03:10:00 -0500 13903 2013-02-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bambi-v12-2-1361329844.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bambi-v12-1-1361329844.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13902-getting-out-claire-bell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13902-getting-out-claire-bell Wiley and Romany, my two children had birthdays this week. When Wiley turned 4 a few years ago I got a glimmer of how much easier going climbing as a family would be once the kids were older. Ro was still a baby then so we still had a few years to go before the fun could really start. We made it! Romany just turned 4 and Wiley 8. To celebrate we started with a birthday trip to Stone Fort and a quick gym session thrown in for me. Here's... ]]> Tue, 19 Feb 2013 18:40:00 -0500 13902 2013-02-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc01648-1361299208.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-2139-1361299209.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc01584-1361299211.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc01640-1361299211.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc01604-1361299212.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc01663-1361299213.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-2113-1361299214.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13901-second-8c-andrea-cartas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13901-second-8c-andrea-cartas Was so nice... the wind was cold, temperature was perfect, the sun coming down...and I flew on this route, like warming up...so easy...I love this feeling!! I've fallen in the last crux many times, six times exactly, but this time, my mind was relaxed and I did the crux like floating... Few minutes after, Adam Ondra sends his proyect, La Dura Dura, so easy too. Nice job Dud!! We were having dinner in a Restaurant in Oliana, with a lot of wine and good friends. Great week after this, sending very fast nice routes like... ]]> Mon, 18 Feb 2013 17:36:00 -0500 13901 2013-02-18 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0195-1361208978.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13900-recap-of-the-last-weeks-sebastien-lazure http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13900-recap-of-the-last-weeks-sebastien-lazure Where to start… During the last few weeks I’ve been competing a lot while trying to figure out how I would manage to do all my school works… Finally, I just finished everything and I’m now packing up for Hueco Tanks! Can’t be more psyched!! ]]> Mon, 18 Feb 2013 14:48:00 -0500 13900 2013-02-18 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_vinceshaefer2-dhc-1361198901.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13899-feats-of-strength-8-and-preparing-for-nationals-isabelle-faus http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13899-feats-of-strength-8-and-preparing-for-nationals-isabelle-faus Yesterday was the Feats of Strength comp in New York. This comp beat me up, the quali round was four hours long, really brutal. The problems were really fun tho, and I was psyched to give them solid efforts. The finals round had three problems, I was able to flash the first.. topped the second on my third try, and got about half way through the endurance style 3rd problem. This comp was the first time I competed with Ashima Shiraishi, and needless to say she is a very impressive climber. Not only can she crush... ]]> Mon, 18 Feb 2013 00:58:00 -0500 13899 2013-02-18 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_563406-603251276355077-1028497137-n-1361149082.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13815-competition-climbing-2013-greig-seitz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13815-competition-climbing-2013-greig-seitz This year I have been focusing on climbing in competitions as well as climbing outside. Since I can still compete in the ABS youth series, I have been trying to stay motivated to train for gym climbing. It is hard to maintain a sense of motivation to climb inside while the temps have been so good outside. In January, I went to the ABS Youth Divisional Championship in Tucson, Arizona. During this competition, I met many awesome climbers. The excitement level was high with all my friends and competitors supporting each-other. I... ]]> Wed, 13 Feb 2013 04:42:00 -0500 13815 2013-02-13 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_photo-1-1360730563.PNG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_photo-1360730564.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13814-mineral-del-chico-new-v13-in-the-aztec-land-diego-lopez-montull http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13814-mineral-del-chico-new-v13-in-the-aztec-land-diego-lopez-montull After being in peñoles for two months, now I'm back in Mexico city, with the idea of being here for a few days. As always it is a great change to be in Peñoles, a place without a lot of people. It's very quiet compared to the city of Mexico. It's a radical change. Almost always when I'm here i finish, climbing in the climbing gym or going to sport climbing routes, sometimes equipping new routes too. But the last two years I began to develop a boulder área, one was abandoned for many years. Last year I make... ]]> Wed, 13 Feb 2013 00:55:00 -0500 13814 2013-02-13 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_3monstruov13-1360716941.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_4monstruov13-1360716942.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_2monstruov13-1360716942.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_1grabancito-1360716943.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_2garbancito-1360716943.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_1monstruov13-1360716944.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13813-the-year-mason-earle http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13813-the-year-mason-earle Its probably a bit late for a 2012 recap, but with most of North America still in the grip of winter, I figured those of us who live in snowy states need a reminder of what it is like to climb in a t-shirt!  ]]> Tue, 12 Feb 2013 21:53:00 -0500 13813 2013-02-12 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_gopr1575-1360705982.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13811-ibex-bishop-giovanni-traversi http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13811-ibex-bishop-giovanni-traversi I recently just got home from an amazing trip to Ibex, Ut. And Bishop, Ca. I returned to Ibex with one goal in mind, to send Wing Chun (v13) on the immaculate Red Monster boulder. Ibex is not your typical bouldering crag, in fact it is the complete opposite. Out in the middle of nowhere, and yes, i mean the middle of nowhere, the closest "town" is 45 miles away on the loneliest road in America. Highway 6/50. These boulders are home to some of the best, and most unique bouldering in the US. The boulders... ]]> Mon, 11 Feb 2013 10:31:00 -0500 13811 2013-02-11 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3222-1360578689.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3225-1360578691.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3177-1360578692.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3172-1360578693.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3178-1360578695.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3175-1360578696.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13809-dark-horse-tour-de-bloc-and-nationals-isabelle-faus http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13809-dark-horse-tour-de-bloc-and-nationals-isabelle-faus Currently I am in South Hadley, Massachusetts waiting out the blizzard Nemo. The entire place is covered in snow, we may have gotten around 2 feet. Today I was supposed to go to the Power Struggle comp in Connecticut, but the snow has delayed the comp to tomorrow. I have been competing a lot these days, the first comp of 2013 was the DarkHorse championship; the last comp in a 4 round series. I won the first round, and got 2nd and 3rd in next two comps. Going into the last round I was really excited. Myself and some... ]]> Sat, 09 Feb 2013 15:57:00 -0500 13809 2013-02-09 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_406083-10200442400286315-1044338225-n-1360425423.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_isabelle-p-4a-1360425423.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_734692-4957816500004-33116076-n-1360425424.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_isabelle-p-2c-1360425424.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_isabelle-p-4c-1360425424.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13808-t-town-pull-down-francesca-metcalf http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13808-t-town-pull-down-francesca-metcalf Last weekend, we kicked off the 2013 Collegiate Climbing Series with the T-Town Pull Down at the University of Alabama. I, as well as eight other Georgia Tech Climbing Club members took the short drive to Tuscaloosa to compete with climbers from all over the South East. For many of our climbers, it was their first time competing in years, or ever, and it was great to see the excitement of a competition through their eyes. I enjoyed explaining to them the ins and outs of competing, things that I have known for so long, that I forgot that... ]]> Sat, 09 Feb 2013 01:51:00 -0500 13808 2013-02-09 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0277-1360374700.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0176-1360374700.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0382-1360374700.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13804-take-five-with-five-ten-athlete-sasha-digiulian-colette-mcinerney http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13804-take-five-with-five-ten-athlete-sasha-digiulian-colette-mcinerney Sasha DiGiulian’s name is bound to ring a bell with just about anyone who has grazed the edges of the climbing scene in the past two years. With her groundbreaking tick-list of 5.14d redpoints and 5.14 onsights, coupled by a brutal competition year (for her competitors that is), Sasha’s last years in the climbing arena has put her pro-climbing career in full swing. Her poster girl image has gone beyond the climbing mags and graced the pages of more traditional media outlets like Vogue Magazine and The Washington Post. Sasha graciously “took five” with me amidst her new and... ]]> Thu, 07 Feb 2013 08:57:00 -0500 13804 2013-02-07 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-7496-1360227443.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_sashcli-1360227443.png http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_sashacl2-1360227443.png http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-7376-1360227444.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-8791-1360227444.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_sash4-1360227444.png http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13802-international-expedition-achieves-first-ascent-of-new-antarctic-route http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13802-international-expedition-achieves-first-ascent-of-new-antarctic-route An international team has succeeded in the first ascent of a major new route on the north east ridge of the remarkable Antarctic mountain, Ulvetanna (2930m). Widely considered to be the most demanding peak on the harshest continent, the mile long ridge has been described as one of "the last great climbs". The team, organized by Leo Houlding (UK), included Sean Leary (USA), Jason Pickles (UK), David Reeves (South Africa), Chris Rabone (UK) and award winning film-maker Alastair Lee (UK).Ulvetanna (“the wolf’s tooth” in Norwegian) is the jewel in the crown of the FenrisKjefeten ("the wolf's jaw")... ]]> Wed, 06 Feb 2013 22:06:00 -0500 13802 2013-02-06 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_back-row-leo-houlding-left-sean-leary-us-front-row-jason-pickles-left-chris-rabone-alastair-lee-revelling-in-summit-glory-photo-berghaus-alastair-lee-1360188378.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_aescent2-1360188378.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13801-vertical-rock-climbing-gym-hans-christian-montenegro http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13801-vertical-rock-climbing-gym-hans-christian-montenegro This is my third competition of the season. There were 63 climbers in the open category. This time the foreign climbers came from Toronto, New Brunswick and U.S.A. I met a very nice man, Josh Larson, who is on the U.S.A. climbing team.The competition had 50 problems for the qualifying round. The qualifying round was hard because the level of the climbers was higher than the last competition. I was amazed to flash problem 50 and this made me very pleased with the qualifying round. After three hours of climbing, I completed six problems beyond problem 41. This score... ]]> Wed, 06 Feb 2013 16:11:00 -0500 13801 2013-02-06 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_vertical-1360167086.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13797-dont-get-pumped-sasha-digiulian http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13797-dont-get-pumped-sasha-digiulian You know when your forearms feel like they are going to burst open and you can't physically close your hand? How about when you get the elvis leg and start shaking all over? Or, better, when you go for the next hold and think "I'M SO PUMPED?" Well, by then you are probably off the wall. The truth is, endurance is very mental. Sure, climbing laps and doing routes back to back, circuiting, and eating healthy helps, but in all honesty, that can be hard to do sometimes. So what do you do when you need an alternative method... ]]> Sat, 02 Feb 2013 05:21:00 -0500 13797 2013-02-02 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_erabella5-1359782485.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13793-2013-goals-alex-fritz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13793-2013-goals-alex-fritz 2013 is a new year which means new goals for climbing! I have a lot of hopeful plans for this year and I am excited to see how they unfold. Next month I am headed to Colorado Springs for the ABS Open Nationals, where I will be in both Colorado Springs and Boulder for about a week each. This is my first adult bouldering nationals and I am very excited to see how I do! My goal for the event is Top 16 or to make Semi-Finals! Lately I've been working full time coaching... ]]> Fri, 01 Feb 2013 05:56:00 -0500 13793 2013-02-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-20121207-162408-1359698165.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-20121213-144348-1359698165.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13792-five-ten-wins-gear-institute-best-of-show-and-climbing-editors-choice http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13792-five-ten-wins-gear-institute-best-of-show-and-climbing-editors-choice Five Ten wins coveted awards at Winter 2013 Outdoor Retailer with Best of Show Gear Institute Award for new Stealth MI6 rubber AND Climbing magazine’s Editors’ Choice Award for new Stonelands Lace-up REDLANDS, California, February 2013. Five Ten, the specialist in high-friction footwear for the world’s most dangerous sports, wins Climbing’s 2013 Editors’ Choice Award for the new Stonelands Lace-up climbing shoe. Gear Institute honors Stealth MI6 rubber with Best In Show Award for Outdoor Retailer Winter 2013.The Gear Institute Best In Show Award highlights “the authentic innovations and game-changing products that will matter the most next... ]]> Thu, 31 Jan 2013 19:59:11 -0500 13792 2013-01-31 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13792_gear-institute-1359664351.jpg