Over the Fourth of July weekend a crew of Chicago climbers and I headed up to Lion’s Head, Canada. Lion’s Head is located on Lake Huron just north of Toronto. These limestone bluffs overlook the beautiful Lake Huron, and some of the climbs are directly over the water, making for a refreshing spray.
I had a great time training in the North Cascades in WA state for the past 2 weeks getting ready for my expedition to Kyrgysztan and China that is going to start in less than a week !!!!!!
Suphanat Juksujang, a.k.a. “Jeffy” was born on the southern Thai island of Phuket in 1998. He immigrated to America in 2007 with his mother and little sister. Jeffy’s poor English skills didn’t hold him back much at all in school where he immediately excelled at sports which he had never played before. He made the basketball, football and track and field teams at school, but, it was rock climbing that really interested him.
Since Canada I have been in real adventure mode; exploring, questing, learning, suffering, progressing and resting, usually in the middle of the mountains, with no phone or internet. The reason - Joy Division, a 20 pitch route on the Qualido wall, Val Di Mello. The result – sore muscles, sorer skin, and a fast track course in Big wall bumbling.
The first time I set eyes on Kjerag I knew I wanted to climb it. Perhaps the world’s most famous BASE jumping cliff, this 1000m vertical wall rising straight out from the sea was just asking to be climbed. In most cases dreams like this remain dreams, with logistics, finances and life in general standing firmly in the way, but this time I had my hand held. The Norwegians are such a friendly bunch, and on-it with their organising. As soon as I said I was keen all I had to do was find a window.
This route is the stuff of legends! And climbed by the legend Johnny Dawes. Blasted into fame in the film Stone Monkey with a Zappa sound track that elevated the route above every other in the quarries. Even the simple name blatantly indicates that this isn’t just another slab or wall. This is THE masterpiece, climbing out from the biggest hole via the biggest challenges.