In just two days, Siebe Vanhee, George Ullrich, Sam Farnsworth, and myself are embarking on an expedition deep into the Venezuelan Jungle in search of the mysterious "steepest wall on earth." The fabled Amuri Tepui boasts what may be the most overhanging big wall on the planet, and armed with some Neon kneebarring pads and a few pairs of downturned Team Five Tens, we hope to drop-knee oor way to the top of this monster!
I'll be the first to admit it: I am a born-and-bred gym rat. For 5 or 6 years I climbed almost exclusively on plastic, and even afterwards only in New England. But once I moved to Colorado a whole new world opened up to me, including the opportunity for a trip to Hueco Tanks in El Paso, Texas!
Once I arrived in Seattle I was overwhelmed by how beautiful Seattle was, even though I was drenched by the rain. Soon enough I came back to reality, there is a comp tomorrow morning but not just any comp.. Division 1 Championship for ABS season. This was the first time that there is a Divisions for ABS season (usually it is regionals then to nationals).
First, a little history. A few years back Kevin Jorgeson established one of the hardest boulder problems on the North Coast. This boulder problem is known as Stigmata, and Kevin gave it an opinion grade on 8a.nu of (V12). It was featured in Chuck Fryberger's film Pure, under the name The Blue Schist Project. The crux move of Stigmata requires grabbing a right hand quarter pad crimp and a left hand side pull, getting your feet up and making a close to full extension reach to a positive edge halfway up the 15 ft. boulder....
This weekend was the first youth Divisional Championship for ABS (bouldering). I traveled to North Carolina to compete for one of 7 bids to nationals. The comp was held at Triangle Rock Club, a gym I hadn’t been to before. I was really psyched going into the competition because I really like to see all of my friends from USA Climbing. I had high expectations of myself and planned on using this comp as a way to see how much stronger I have gotten.
The final of the German Boulder series in 2011 took place in Überlingen, a nice place next to the Bodensee. It was traditional. Unfortunately, the weather was not as good as the last years, so the organizers had some problems with the competition walls. The holds were wet; also the mats were wet, so that the climbers got wet shoes, when they started in a boulder problem. The atmosphere between the climbers was not good. The competition was a disaster.