http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12196-five-ten-in-china-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12196-five-ten-in-china-jon-cardwell Right now, I'm enjoying the last moments for a few weeks at my apartment in Boulder, Colorado. I'm about to drive to Denver to catch a flight to California to meet up with Five Ten's own Kevin Newell and Beau Kahler. Final destination, the Getu Valley China for the annual Petzl Roctrip. I've posted about the trip before but only in the last few hours has it hit me that I am actually traveling to Asia. I've only been once, or twice I suppose, when I traveled to Turkey in 2005 and 2008, but I... ]]> Sat, 22 Oct 2011 20:46:00 -0400 12196 2011-10-22 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_2946101015088466558059469759559321252364339575262n_1319316375.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12194-boulder-by-another-week-in-guadalajara-mexico http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12194-boulder-by-another-week-in-guadalajara-mexico Boulder by another week in Guadalajara, Mexico. On Saturday of last week i start cleaning up a boulders back in K28. One of this boulders ia a ceiling of 8 movements, the crux is in the middle of the boulder. this boulder i could do all the moves, but is very close, it might be a V12. front of this block had a project called jugo de taco. is a V10 or V11. came out very good in a few attempts. I also make another boulder in the same area, the name is, El cisne negro V11, a very... ]]> Fri, 21 Oct 2011 20:16:00 -0400 12194 2011-10-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_cisnenegro2_1319228167.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_cisnenegroxida_1319228168.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_cisnenegroxida2_1319228168.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_GUA28jugodetaco_1319228169.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_GUA28taco2_1319228170.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_GUAtaco3_1319228171.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dienteatardecer_1319228172.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12193-australia-for-starters-david-graham http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12193-australia-for-starters-david-graham Im sitting on a couch, trying to get the local house cat to stop killing mice. Dutchez, a gray Maine-coon looking kitty, is taking mice from the outdoors, bringing them inside, and then losing them. Major cat fail. A whirlwind of voyage set in as I left Australia, and I find myself trying to ride the wave, yet not lose sight of shore. I will be leaving for China in two days and I am feeling extremely excited for the trip, especially now that I have to climbed the one problem in Colorado I found this year I was... ]]> Fri, 21 Oct 2011 20:06:00 -0400 12193 2011-10-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_esdaverope42_1319227590.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG10442_1319227590.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG21722_1319227591.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Picture1_1319227593.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Picture3_1319227593.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Picture4_1319227593.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG08992_1319227594.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12190-petzl-rock-trip-china-ni-hao-colette-mcinerney http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12190-petzl-rock-trip-china-ni-hao-colette-mcinerney I’ve had a minor obsession with Asia since child-hood. In elementary school we had an influx of Laotians in the early nineties, and for a simple southerner their presence was like stepping into another world. I would listen in on their untranslatable conversations, read old Chinese folk tales from the school library, and watched The King and I on repeat. I was truly intrigued by this world that was, literally and figuratively, so far away. Over the years my interest has stayed, and everyone once and awhile I’ll delve into little eastern literature or news, but in actuality I... ]]> Fri, 21 Oct 2011 17:52:44 -0400 12190 2011-10-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12190_getu1_1319219861.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12190_getu24_1319219861.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12190_IMG6744_1319219861.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12190_IMG4098_1319219861.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12189-connected-from-aleix-vilardebo-ferran-guerrero-hervas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12189-connected-from-aleix-vilardebo-ferran-guerrero-hervas This week has been a week to reflect long and intense, nothing is as it seems, what it is, does not have to be and nothing is forever. With this I can only give way to the video we made with on Sunday, not a climbing video fan, it's a style that we like, and that Aleix over the years we have been putting in, good picture, an idea developed, a sense of the whole, and climbing beyond hiding feelings, textures, connections with what we do and as we do. Connected por Aleix Vilardebò (diretor y cinematografia) ... ]]> Fri, 21 Oct 2011 05:20:00 -0400 12189 2011-10-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12189_image1_1319475200.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12188-indian-creek-mini-trip-urs-moosmuller http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12188-indian-creek-mini-trip-urs-moosmuller The first time I ever heard of Indian Creek was while looking through my dad’s collection of Rock and Ice Magazines. Every day after school I would pick up one of the magazines and look through it gazing at the photos and reading all the articles that interested me. Out of all the climbing areas featured, Indian Creek always captured my attention. The magnificent hundred foot sandstone walls completely blank except for one obvious weakness. Perfectly parallel cracks ranging from desperate tips all the way to heinous off widths. This was the perfect traditional climbing area. As I grew... ]]> Thu, 20 Oct 2011 16:30:00 -0400 12188 2011-10-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IB1_1319128201.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IB2_1319128202.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IB3_1319128203.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IB4_1319128204.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IB5_1319128205.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IB6_1319128206.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IB7_1319128207.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12187-made-in-china-steve-mcclure http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12187-made-in-china-steve-mcclure The best time of the year is now. Everywhere! Not just for climbing but for everything (maybe not sunbathing). The sun is out every day and the air is cold and crisp. In true style I knackered a finger, so that explains my lack of posting recently. Lots of time to get out and cruise some easier stuff. But its getting better now, a bit annoying having also had a bad finger most of last year (different one), but at least I got good at 3 finger climbing! I was in good shape (for me) and ready for some... ]]> Thu, 20 Oct 2011 08:46:00 -0400 12187 2011-10-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_1110froggatmist_1319100415.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12186-on-not-training-jess-taverna http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12186-on-not-training-jess-taverna For my first post, here’s a little introduction to my climbing life as viewed through a contrast with my running life. Running is a second love--which means I love it, but it plays second fiddle to climbing. I mostly run half marathons, though I would love to do some fulls. Despite the fact that running falls behind climbing as a priority, when I do run, I follow a focused, clearly outlined training plan (some, namely my husband, would go so far as to suggest my running training is obsessive). For each race, I set up a detailed, pace- and... ]]> Thu, 20 Oct 2011 04:26:00 -0400 12186 2011-10-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12186_SwellProfile_1319228420.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12185-15th-annual-yank-n-yard-in-albuquerque-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12185-15th-annual-yank-n-yard-in-albuquerque-jon-cardwell Last weekend I headed down to Albuquerque for the 15th Annual Yank-N-Yard competition.  I remember competing in this event in my first few years of climbing.  I feel like it was this event in the past that shaped my idea of competition climbing long before USA Climbing, the pca and UBC.  I guess everyone has their own first real competition experience, professional or not at the time, this was mine. ]]> Thu, 20 Oct 2011 04:26:00 -0400 12185 2011-10-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12185_gsm2146edit_1319216365.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12184-trip-to-norway-daniel-jung http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12184-trip-to-norway-daniel-jung Here are two german articles about our trip: OnMarkus page and in the Black Diamond Journal Markus made a short movie about our trip to Norway."..the Norwegian Rockmaster, some bouldering at the sea, our restdays and the first ascent of "Leck Crag" by Daniel. Unfortunately we had no video camera on "Hoca Hey"." ]]> Wed, 19 Oct 2011 20:36:00 -0400 12184 2011-10-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12184_image1_1319134156.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12183-bella-regis-gabriele-moroni http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12183-bella-regis-gabriele-moroni Last couple of weeks I was in Trento climbing in the beautiful crags of the area! I left home with one route in the head. I bolted this beautiful line during a few days last spring and called it Bella Regis!...The rock formation is one of the most impressive I've ever seen, a huge roof prow and the route follows exactly the arete line with no possibility to go right or left!When I bolted it I hoped there were enough features to climb it and I hoped to find a next level route... ]]> Wed, 19 Oct 2011 20:08:00 -0400 12183 2011-10-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_21091325665678072251345052043329900441973686868o_1319054897.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12181-northwest-boulderfest-alex-fritz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12181-northwest-boulderfest-alex-fritz Hey guys - I realize that since I'm back to updating my personal blog, I should update this one, too! Last weekend was the NORTHWEST BOULDERFEST at the brand new Seattle Bouldering Project (the largest bouldering gym IN THE WORLD!). The gym opened earlier this summer but it was going to be my first time there so I was psyched to take on the new terrain and try to win some money in Open. There were a lot of strong climbers in Open this year, with Five Ten Athletes like Johnny Goicoechea, Stephen Meinhold, Brian Boyko, and a lot... ]]> Wed, 19 Oct 2011 19:25:00 -0400 12181 2011-10-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_ALEX_1319052344.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_JOHNNY_1319052344.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_STEPHEN_1319052344.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_STEPHEN2_1319052345.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12179-santa-gadea-sandstone-bouldering-elizabeth-hardwick http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12179-santa-gadea-sandstone-bouldering-elizabeth-hardwick It's been a while since my last blog...I've been fighting elbow tendonitis all summer and my spirits were low for much of the time. I finally started getting the injury under wraps towards the beginning of September and have spent the last month and a half easing back into heavy sport climbing. I did, however, manage to get in a great trip at the end of the summer despite the tendonitis. By climbing only an hour or two per day and not trying anything too hard, I got in some great days at a special place in Spain: Santa... ]]> Wed, 19 Oct 2011 17:26:00 -0400 12179 2011-10-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_P1010759_1319045189.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG4062_1319045189.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG4850_1319045189.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG4712_1319045189.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG4177_1319045189.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_P1010762_1319045189.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG3998_1319045190.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12180-black-canyon-national-park-david-farkas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12180-black-canyon-national-park-david-farkas I am so psyched!!! I just did a rock and paddle combo at the Black Canyon National Park in Colorado. One weekend of paddling with friends from Durango, and another weekend of climbing with my girlfriend. The "Black's" totally awesome for kayaking...a committing 2-day kayak trip with excellent grade IV/V whitewater, long and burly portages, prehistoric poison ivy (I'm talking head high plants with bark and berries) and a fantastic camp with epic trout fishing. The climbing...old school multi-pitch trad. Each route crosses the spectrum of possibilities when it comes to rock quality. Some pitches are on solid rock... ]]> Wed, 19 Oct 2011 17:25:44 -0400 12180 2011-10-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12180_IMGP1452_1319045811.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12180_Fallsbeforetheportage_1319045811.png http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12180_IMGP1641_1319045812.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12180_IMGP1628_1319045812.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12180_IMGP1650_1319045812.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12175-bubba-ho-tep-nrg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12175-bubba-ho-tep-nrg October on the east coast marks the start of climbing season.  The mountains are painted by the changing of the leaves and temperatures are prime for firing projects.  Conditions on the east coast vary so much through the year from frigid winters to hot and humid summers that fall is a welcomed change.  One of my favorite places to spend fall climbing is the New River Gorge WV. ]]> Tue, 18 Oct 2011 16:22:00 -0400 12175 2011-10-18 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_roof2_1318954965.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_31065110150426802621449721196448100012701960371180n_1318954966.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_roof3_1318954966.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_roof6_1318954966.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_29858210150426803481449721196448100012811080070984n_1318954966.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_roof4_1318954966.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12175_30093510150426802451449721196448100012691288281037n_1319040103.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12174-silence-recording-ferran-guerrero-hervas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12174-silence-recording-ferran-guerrero-hervas We're back at it again, everything returns to normal, finally starts to let fall a little more cold, Aleix super motivated to create new images that make us dream and as always with friends, another good day of reunions as few months ago and to end the day a good meal with anecdotes and memories. Aleix Our friend and director, I wanted to give free rein to his new project, and as always we ask, why we embarked, all to collaborate, to drag tripods, objectives, cameras, reflective take aspirin, a classic already and had... ]]> Tue, 18 Oct 2011 06:31:00 -0400 12174 2011-10-18 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12174_03_1319125737.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12173-world-cup-boulder-ian-dory http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12173-world-cup-boulder-ian-dory Rumney After Nor’easter it was great having some downtime and making our way to the outdoors in New Hampshire. To begin my preparation for the World Cup I thought clipping bolts in Rumney was a great idea, but the rain and bugs suggested otherwise. New England has very fickle weather and when the climbs I consider myself close to sending are short and powerful, weather is a large factor. It feels like every time I visit Rumney it’s always hot and raining, sigh. ]]> Tue, 18 Oct 2011 00:23:00 -0400 12173 2011-10-18 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_matty.b_1318897424.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_matty_1318897424.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12169-reno-take-2-and-lead-wc-alex-johnson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12169-reno-take-2-and-lead-wc-alex-johnson I thought I submitted a post about Reno, but something went wrong! So here I am writing the whole thing again... Which is alright, because I've done a few more things since Reno, anyways. :) ]]> Mon, 17 Oct 2011 04:05:00 -0400 12169 2011-10-17 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_30146310150462713216102788821101108705821351132671n_1318824314.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG201110011917221_1318824314.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_302407260422420659927131164916919012680216240132643n_1318824314.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_2991222604260506595641311649169190126803001908463002n_1318824314.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_310772260426390659530131164916919012680309322658512n_1318824314.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12168-petzl-roctrip-in-china-with-five-ten-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12168-petzl-roctrip-in-china-with-five-ten-jon-cardwell For years I've had a huge appreciation for the distant places I visit. From Turkey, to Europe to South America, each holds a great memory of adventure and exploration. The times spent in these places with old friends and new has and always will be priceless. Next week I'm leaving the grind in Boulder and switching modes for the Petzl RocTrip in the Getu Valley in China. ]]> Mon, 17 Oct 2011 02:58:00 -0400 12168 2011-10-17 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_FilminginBrazil_1318820309.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_HouseintheSkyV14FirstAscentBrazil_1318820310.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IstanbulTurkey_1318820310.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Brazil_1318820310.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_DaveGrahaminCeuse_1318820310.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12166-training-and-fall-goals-greg-padovani http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12166-training-and-fall-goals-greg-padovani These past couple months have been purely devoted to training. In November I am planning to put some of this training to the test at the Red, where I will try to put away two climbs that I have been chasing for quite some time – God’s Own Stone 14a and Pushing up Daisies 13c. God’s Own is a shorter, more powerful, crimpy and pocketie route. The crux puts my focus and flexibility to the test as I have to carefully cut my feet and swing a foot up to a small pocket and then rock up off of... ]]> Mon, 17 Oct 2011 01:06:00 -0400 12166 2011-10-17 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Pinchtrainingpic_1318813586.jpg