http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12247-five-ten-stowaway-tour-update-mayan-smith-gobat http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12247-five-ten-stowaway-tour-update-mayan-smith-gobat A week ago I left a perfect October in Yosemite for an epic trip to China, to partake in the Petzl Roctrip in the Getu Valley. What a crazy contrast, after about 40 hours of travel I ended up in rural China, staying in a tiny village surrounded by an amazing amount of incredible limestone walls. ]]> Wed, 02 Nov 2011 19:24:59 -0400 12247 2011-11-02 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12247_IMG1174_1320262463.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12247_IMG1486_1320262463.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12247_P1030509_1320262463.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12247_IMG1101_1320262463.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12247_IMG1140_1320262463.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12247_IMG1143_1320262463.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12247_IMG1146_1320262463.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12245-five-ten-stowaway-tour-update-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12245-five-ten-stowaway-tour-update-jon-cardwell In a few hours we are sending off the French team. They have been here almost two weeks and for them its time to head home. Today is officially the last day of the Petzl Roc trip but our small crew of Americans are staying for another week. So far the RocTrip has blown my expectations. I can only imagine the mass amount of hard work and organization that went into making this event possible. China is far more foreign and distant that I could have ever imagined, from bamboo boats and houses, daily rice barbeques with meat and... ]]> Wed, 02 Nov 2011 16:59:20 -0400 12245 2011-11-02 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12245_arche_1320254807.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12245_EscapefromRain_1320254808.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12245_EthanDancingWithTheDust2_1320254808.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12245_GabriCoupdBamboo9AFA_1320254808.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12245_JononSteps_1320254808.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12245_JonlookinHard_1320254808.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12245_Pano2_1320254808.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12244-summer-sweat-fest-finale-and-coyote-fall-classic-competition http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12244-summer-sweat-fest-finale-and-coyote-fall-classic-competition Just a quick update on a couple comps before the Tour de Bloc season starts! The Summer Sweat Fest Season is now over. The season finale competition that I was talking about earlier went really well. I ended up winning the competition and had so much fun. My buddy Dustin Curtis was setting for the comp and he always impresses with new movements and really creative sequences. Check out this link he posted of me flashing Mens final number 4: ]]> Wed, 02 Nov 2011 16:26:58 -0400 12244 2011-11-02 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12244_pic2_1320251637.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12244_pic7_1320251637.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12244_pic11_1320251637.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12600-above-it-all-dean-potter http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12600-above-it-all-dean-potter I climbed the West Ridge of the Eiger with my friend Ivo Ninov. We weren’t expecting the Eiger to be climbable so both of us hadn’t packed any alpine gear. We navigated our way up the icy face, wearing blue jeans and sneakers. Lucky for us we did have some gear; we both had Fiveten shoes and Stealth, the stickiest rubber on earth, on our feet. Ivo was pretty much styling with his high top ‘Insights’. He strutted through some snowy sections and even kicked a few steps. I on the other hand, well foot,... ]]> Wed, 02 Nov 2011 08:00:00 -0400 12600 2011-11-02 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12600_photo4-1328651597.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12600_photo2-1328651597.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12600_photo1-1328651598.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12600_photo-1328651599.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12242-stockboys-revenge-jen-vennon http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12242-stockboys-revenge-jen-vennon Saturday the 17th of September was one of those days I can only describe as un-motivating. It was raining and cold as we packed the car. It dumped for the entire 1 hour drive to Rifle Mountain Park. At one point I began laughing and questioned Andrew about why we were still driving. I’d suggested throwing in the towel before we even made it to the highway. A day at the Glenwood Hot Springs was sounding perfect to me. But we kept driving. The canyon was pretty much empty when we arrived. Everything looked a little darker... ]]> Tue, 01 Nov 2011 23:41:00 -0400 12242 2011-11-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_stockboysrevenge2_1320190891.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_stockboysrevenge_1320190891.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12240-update-from-the-five-ten-stowaway-tour-in-chinas-getu-valley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12240-update-from-the-five-ten-stowaway-tour-in-chinas-getu-valley When we think about Five Ten, two words come to mind: hard and impressive. (That's not what we meant, so get your mind out of the gutter.) Hard and impressive sends was the story of the week when Five Ten invaded the Getu Valley in China. (probably shouldn't put "invade" and "China" in the same sentence. But, what are you gonna do?) Gabriel Moroni sended the 9a (5.14d) project "Coup de Bamboo" for the first ascent; Ethan Pringle and Sean Villanueva are getting so very close to finishing "Dancing with the... ]]> Tue, 01 Nov 2011 22:33:40 -0400 12240 2011-11-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12240_image6_1320187118.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12240_image_1320187118.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12240_image3_1320187118.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12240_image2_1320187118.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12240_image4_1320187118.jpeg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12239-winter-is-here-phllip-schaal http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12239-winter-is-here-phllip-schaal Winter?I know in my last blog I was really happy that the fall weather had arrived.  Now Winter seems to be here.  last week we got a foot of snow and now its snowing again.  I’m all for freezing temps but the white stuff makes everything impossible.  But I’m still highly motivated to keep getting out there.  Even if I have to trap of the top of the boulder.  I’m hoping to get back to a fairly dry boulder after the snow.  We’ll see what happens! ]]> Tue, 01 Nov 2011 22:12:54 -0400 12239 2011-11-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12239_NewProject1272_1320185727.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12239_photo_1320185727.jpeg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12238-colette-mcinerney-checks-in-from-getu-valley-china http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12238-colette-mcinerney-checks-in-from-getu-valley-china We’ve been here in China for exactly one week and despite what I worried about for the first couple of days we got here, it has flown by. That’s right when confronted with the reality of smelly quarters, cold showers, first days of cloudy skies and drizzly rain, my severely jet-lagged self started to say, “Hum, OK, is it over yet?” Luckily it only took a few sleeping pill induced nights, immediate love of the local cuisine and one look at the “out-of-control-would-only-exist-in-China” limestone caves, to start really having fun and start seeing our time slip away before my... ]]> Tue, 01 Nov 2011 20:43:55 -0400 12238 2011-11-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12238_IMG8799_1320180548.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12238_IMG8250_1320180548.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12238_IMG8196_1320180548.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12238_IMG8039_1320180548.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12238_IMG8025_1320180548.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12238_IMG9133_1320180548.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12238_IMG7735_1320180548.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12237-l http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12237-l The best and most dangerous climbing, unique nature and unique climbing community. This is the sandstone town of Adrspach in Czech Republic. ]]> Tue, 01 Nov 2011 20:29:00 -0400 12237 2011-11-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Slanenikral_1320179368.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Adr003_1320179368.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG01301_1320179369.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_057_1320179369.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_PICT28301_1320179369.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Adr102_1320179370.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_A09_1320179370.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12236-friends-fun-food-and-climbing-2011-angela-payne http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12236-friends-fun-food-and-climbing-2011-angela-payne Highlights from 9 competitions I attended in 2011 ]]> Tue, 01 Nov 2011 20:03:00 -0400 12236 2011-11-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_ABSNationals_1320177797.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_CanadianNationalsQBSportsBar_1320177798.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_SnowinCanmore_1320177799.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_PaddleBoardingNorEaster_1320177800.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_CanadianNationalsClimbersRock_1320177801.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_RiverRockClimbingWall_1320177801.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_LakeGardaWorldChampionships_1320177802.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12235-northern-beatsan-arctic-boulder-adventure http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12235-northern-beatsan-arctic-boulder-adventure In May 2010 a highly motivated Boulder team met in Trondheim. My friends Justin Hawkins, Torstein Eide, Belinda Weiss and new “Newcomer” Therese Johansen and myself wanted to check the Norways best Bouldering Spots and moreover we wanted explore new areas along Norways never ending Coastlines. ]]> Tue, 01 Nov 2011 19:35:17 -0400 12235 2011-11-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12235_bernd1_1320177775.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12235_nb1_1320177775.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12235_nb2_1320177775.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12234-back-from-yosemite-nicolas-favresse http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12234-back-from-yosemite-nicolas-favresse I am just back from Yosemite. I can't believe 3 years passed since the last time I was in Yosemite valley. It's funny how every time it's the same feeling: It's even more beautiful than what I had remembered. Even after having climbed in so many places all over the world, Yosemite remains this unbypassable mecca for big wall climbing and I will always come back to it. This last fall I spent 1month and half in the valley which still felt way too short. El cap was the main target. I had a very fun trip so here... ]]> Tue, 01 Nov 2011 00:57:00 -0400 12234 2011-11-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_headwall_1320109067.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_elcapexploration_1320109067.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0142_1320109067.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0340_1320109068.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0019_1320109068.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_seancamelotdanslaguele_1320109068.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0062_1320109068.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12230-first-one-day-ascent-of-scorched-earth-ammon-mcneely http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12230-first-one-day-ascent-of-scorched-earth-ammon-mcneely I just climbed my 13th first one day ascent of El Capitan! Rob Slater and Randy Leavitt climbed the first ascent of Scorched Earth on El Capitan in 1987. The route is known for its steep pitches, loose rock and hard aiding. David Allfrey, Skiy Detray and I just climbed the first one day ascent of the route in 22 hours and 28 minutes. While short-fixing, I endured a 50 foot fall on the 4th pitch when a hook blew, a carabiner got lodged in my Gri-gri the camming mechanism failed and fell all the way to the end... ]]> Mon, 31 Oct 2011 17:51:00 -0400 12230 2011-10-31 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG2844_1320083484.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG2893_1320083484.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12229-my-first-five-ten-blog-luke-muller http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12229-my-first-five-ten-blog-luke-muller So this is Luke Muller's first Five Ten post. What I aim to do with this post is to give an insight and clues to who I am, what I do and why I do it. My name is Luke Muller. I am twenty-seven years old and live in Calgary Canada. I have been climbing since I was four years old. My biggest inspirational people growing up have always been my brother and father. More inspirations I have is my very good friend Simon Villeneuve, who has been an inspiration both inside the climbing world and outside. ... ]]> Mon, 31 Oct 2011 15:45:00 -0400 12229 2011-10-31 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0742_1320075944.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0693_1320075943.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12228-back-from-kyrgyzstan-andres-marin http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12228-back-from-kyrgyzstan-andres-marin I juts got back from a awesome incredible super cool expedition to Kyrgyzstan. We had the opportunity to climb two new peaks on a mountain range between Kyrgyzstan and China We where also the first Americans on visiting the range. The peaks, a 5,000 and 4,800 meters where full of great alpine terrain. rotten Ice, chossy Rock and lots of snow give tons of inspiration to climb them to the top an be able to put up two awesome routes. The hole expedition was incredible besides the scary climbing the had the chance to do some bouldering,... ]]> Mon, 31 Oct 2011 05:21:00 -0400 12228 2011-10-31 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0570_1320038519.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12226-averstal-and-the-end-of-the-trip-michiel-nieuwenhuijsen http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12226-averstal-and-the-end-of-the-trip-michiel-nieuwenhuijsen Begin July Sophia and I drove to Magic Wood (Averstal), the last destination of our 6 months road trip (see previous blogs below). It was a weird feeling to know that the trip was coming to an end, it felt like the five previous months had been gone so fast. But we still had three weeks to spend and that is longer than most peoples holidays, so no complaining. ]]> Sun, 30 Oct 2011 14:44:00 -0400 12226 2011-10-30 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_1Riverbed8b_1319985895.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_2Riverbed8b_1319985896.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_3Riverbed8b_1319985896.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_4Riverbed8b_1319985897.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12225-banyangs-cave-steve-mcclure http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12225-banyangs-cave-steve-mcclure Petzl Rock Trip 2011. Getu valley. There must be more limestone here than the whole of the put together! But the really crazy thing is the variation in styles. There just seems to be everything plus more other styles you didn’t know existed. ]]> Sat, 29 Oct 2011 01:23:00 -0400 12225 2011-10-29 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_1110chinaevans2_1319851403.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12224-getting-down-and-dirty-in-the-dez-and-dealing-with-gobies http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12224-getting-down-and-dirty-in-the-dez-and-dealing-with-gobies It's full-on crack season here in the dez which means one thing: gobious copious, a horrid malady that can turn a crack-climber's skin sitch into a trip ending injury. ]]> Fri, 28 Oct 2011 17:32:00 -0400 12224 2011-10-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_photo1_1319823133.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12222-50-classic-climbsmark-and-janelle-smiley-meet-al-steck-and-knock-off-36 http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12222-50-classic-climbsmark-and-janelle-smiley-meet-al-steck-and-knock-off-36 Oct 7th was our 5 year anniversary. What better way to celebrate it than climbing the Nose on El Cap? We had been planning for this for the last few days. Buying 12 $0.79 two-liter bottles of soda for water containers, packing the haul bags, and practicing jugging where all part of the prep. Now we were ready. We walked to the base of the route only to see 11 other people on the first three pitches of the climb. We sat down and just watched. Everyone was moving very slowly, so we bailed. ]]> Thu, 27 Oct 2011 22:37:13 -0400 12222 2011-10-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12222_steck_1319755255.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12221-banff-in-mexico-citye-and-five-ten http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12221-banff-in-mexico-citye-and-five-ten BANFF, Mountain Film Festival in Mexico. So last October 21,22,23 was presented BANFF festival in Mexico City. In this event was FIVE TEN, who control about rebuked them for this festival and support to achieve this. such events are very good for Mexico, since moive people and reminds them how far can human when striving to achieve his dream. this Eveno lasted three days, each day with 3 hours of video and mountain adventure. Mesner Reinol the last day he lectured. ]]> Thu, 27 Oct 2011 21:26:00 -0400 12221 2011-10-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_banffFIVETEN_1319750775.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_banffFIVATENmex5_1319750776.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_banffFIVETENmex3_1319750777.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_banffFIVETENmex4_1319750778.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_banffFIVETENmex6_1319750778.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_banffFIVETENmex7_1319750779.jpg