http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12351-the-boa-frederic-julien-nicole http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12351-the-boa-frederic-julien-nicole Here a picture of the Boa, a boulder problem I opened in Switzerland this year. It is a sit down start on a big snake like looking structure, which also gives the name to the problem. Some powerful moves on pockets underclings that bring you to a tricky traverse with more pockets and a finish with long moves into a big flake. It ends in another problem called “Mosaik”. The first four moves are by far the hardest, but the last ten are quite delicate and bring a great dimension to the line. You can see the... ]]> Mon, 28 Nov 2011 10:46:00 -0500 12351 2011-11-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_PrananewsLeBoa_1322477174.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12350-climbing-in-arkansauce-kyle-francis http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12350-climbing-in-arkansauce-kyle-francis Sorry for the late blog post, I've been super swamped with school work, so blame that! Earlier this month I went to Arkansas with a couple of my buddies from Texas and we had an unbelievable trip.it started off arriving Friday at like three in the morning, which wasn't awesome but whatever. we woke up later on Friday and went to Fred's cave after warming up. started off on a climb called Triforce V9, which actually took me a lot of tries. then, rested a little bit and fell swinging out of the finish jug of Fred's... ]]> Mon, 28 Nov 2011 02:42:00 -0500 12350 2011-11-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_37940510150456307183974707233973104910041744044201n_1322448126.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12346-batallion-tatami-ferran-guerrero-hervas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12346-batallion-tatami-ferran-guerrero-hervas Fall, without a doubt one of the seasons that I like (fall winter and spring), but Autumn has those colors, the range of browns, today it has lifted the foggy day is what you live here, and plans were made way back we spent many hours giving discovering new problems and making first ascents with Met, Oscar, Leti, Joan and Laia, here we indulge in a virgin area at that time. ]]> Sun, 27 Nov 2011 19:14:00 -0500 12346 2011-11-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12346_04_1322522298.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12346_00_1322521709.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12346_02_1322522298.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12346_03_1322522298.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12346_05_1322522298.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12346_06_1322522298.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12346_07_1322522298.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12345-mint-vermont-weather-an-fa-and-a-trip-to-arkansas-with-brian-bittner http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12345-mint-vermont-weather-an-fa-and-a-trip-to-arkansas-with-brian-bittner This year has been a much different one in my climbing career. It started off as recent year's have with a trip South, some local spring climbing and regular training in the gym. As the weather got warmer and the climbing got a bit lack luster, work starting picking up. I run a business as an antique dealer and travel to shows throughout the Northeast to setup at shows. I found myself especially busy this year. I had more house calls, found more merchandise and went to more antique shows to sell. The result of this was significantly less... ]]> Sun, 27 Nov 2011 18:39:00 -0500 12345 2011-11-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_OGE_1322419151.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12344-4-annual-ice-night-andres-marin http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12344-4-annual-ice-night-andres-marin I just came back from the 4th Annual Ice Night which took place at the City Rock climbing gym in Colorado Springs. The event was super fun. Tons of people climbing with ice tools YES ice tools!!!! I also had the great pleasure of giving a slide show about my most recent expedition to Kyrgyzstan where my partner and I climbed two new huge alpine faces and we were the first American expedition to visit that mountain range. At the event there was a competition where I placed 3rd !!!!!! Overall, a great... ]]> Sun, 27 Nov 2011 06:21:00 -0500 12344 2011-11-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0877_1322374898.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12343-fall-andrew-plagens http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12343-fall-andrew-plagens So this fall has been pretty good so far. I have been trying to get out and climb as much as possible. I have been climbing in Poudre Canyon with my friends Morgan and Dane. Poudre has some high quality granite and is a super fun place to climb. It is nice because it doesn't get crazy crowded like Boulder Canyon or Eldo. Another fun place to climb near Poudre is the Horse Tooth reservoir. Its mainly bouldering and is a great place to spend the afternoon. Morgan and I are getting geared up for the winter, we hope... ]]> Sun, 27 Nov 2011 02:13:00 -0500 12343 2011-11-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_mypics243_1322360021.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12342-tanksgiving-chris-schulte http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12342-tanksgiving-chris-schulte Sat, 26 Nov 2011 00:27:00 -0500 12342 2011-11-26 http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12339-great-days-at-fontainebleau-miguel-navarro http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12339-great-days-at-fontainebleau-miguel-navarro The last October, i spend 17 awesome days at Fontainebleau, climbing almost everyday..... always i go to this amazing boulder land, i´ll comeback to home excited and with the motivation over the sky.It was a really good days around La Foret, hundreds of best boulders in the world waiting for us, a lot of classics done and three of the best hard lines in the forest are in my tick list now.RainbowRocketBig DragonTigre et DragonHere one of that cool boulders i have done this last trip to Font ]]> Thu, 24 Nov 2011 22:57:00 -0500 12339 2011-11-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_family_1322175477.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0566_1322175477.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Fontainebleau211_1322175479.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_manquant_1322175479.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_63217873404c9afec1afb_1322175479.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_michelanch_1322175480.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12337-fall-season-ben-isaac-tresco http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12337-fall-season-ben-isaac-tresco Thu, 24 Nov 2011 19:53:00 -0500 12337 2011-11-24 http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12335-setting-in-kansas-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12335-setting-in-kansas-jon-cardwell Last weekend I was invited to a small gym in Wichita, Kansas to set a small bouldering comp and for some coaching. I took off early Friday morning. I was particularly worked from setting for an ABS comp the day before in Fort Collins and a week of hard work at the gym + recovering from a bout of food poisoning in Hueco…excuses… However, Ryan Sewell, fellow setter and coworker at Movement is perpetually psyched on making things happen. I know a lot of people are like this, but Ryan really, really wants to get things done. Thus, I... ]]> Thu, 24 Nov 2011 02:54:00 -0500 12335 2011-11-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0431_1322103243.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0432_1322103244.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0433_1322103245.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0434_1322103245.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0435_1322103246.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0434_1322103247.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0437_1322103247.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12332-thankful-brian-dunnohew http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12332-thankful-brian-dunnohew This is not really a blog post about finding specific rad new lines or the latest new ticks, it's about how thankful I am for climbing. I know it seems like we are never completely satisfied with our climbing; we are always training, pushing personal grades, searching for the best boulders or routes and always wanting more. From a non-climbing view it might seem insane to work on a problems or routes for hours, days, seasons, years, working through frustrations with beta and conditions...and it is maddening. Then when we finally succeed, not much more than a few high... ]]> Wed, 23 Nov 2011 17:16:00 -0500 12332 2011-11-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_font_1322068570.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12331-stars-shining-at-kendal-steve-mcclure http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12331-stars-shining-at-kendal-steve-mcclure As a kid, in fact even as an adult, I looked up to the stars of the climbing world. Then slowly, as you meet them you realize they are actually normal people. It’s almost a surprise! Ben Moon is Human! But some stars remain up there, and even when you get to know them well, there is still just something about them that sets them apart. I can be having a totally normal conversation about something totally normal, but there is something else, a depth of history surrounding us like a mist. Unseen but felt. ... ]]> Wed, 23 Nov 2011 11:10:00 -0500 12331 2011-11-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_1122kendalfest_1322046622.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12329-transitions-luke-muller http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12329-transitions-luke-muller So we (the Calgary Climbing Center Adult Team) appeared on a local breakfast television show this morning. It was pretty good except for the crazy early start this morning, having to arrive at the gym at 7am and then proceed to do monkey tricks and show off problems for the people of Calgary to get their days ready at the sight of. ]]> Wed, 23 Nov 2011 06:31:00 -0500 12329 2011-11-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG1034_1322029880.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12328-bus-de-velatrento-end-of-the-season-gabriele-moroni http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12328-bus-de-velatrento-end-of-the-season-gabriele-moroni One more FA before the season closes... After China I needed a break... a mix of 30+ hours of travel and airports,jet lag and fatigue killed my body and my mind... So I took one week of rest. After this stop I was starting to feel ok so I slowly began to climb again... First a couple of times in the gym doing easy stuffs then some fingerboard sessions at home and finally a couple of days on the rock again! ]]> Tue, 22 Nov 2011 22:30:00 -0500 12328 2011-11-22 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_326087269952041366614263226083140086539271891o_1322001042.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_3405522699522893728142632260831400871567500060o_1322001042.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12324-back-to-basics-at-hp40-francesca-metcalf http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12324-back-to-basics-at-hp40-francesca-metcalf The third Triple Crown, held at Horse Pens 40, was a great finale to a great circuit this year. The weather, which many were complaining was too hot, was perfect in my opinion, and I was psyched to crush some awesome problems. ]]> Tue, 22 Nov 2011 04:55:00 -0500 12324 2011-11-22 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_31912523108239637111042726575326223971550250828n_1321937714.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12322-are-we-crazy-mayan-smith-gobat http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12322-are-we-crazy-mayan-smith-gobat The last week of my time in the Getu Valley was really amazing. Slowly the place returned to normal, there was no more waiting in a cue to climb and by end of the week it felt like we were the only foreigners left in the village. It was also awesome having the chance to climb and hang out with the 5.10 team. There was some sick sendage going down, despite us all getting sick at various times throughout the trip. Beau got some great photos, and thanks to Kevin, doing an incredible job of organizing everything for us... ]]> Mon, 21 Nov 2011 22:29:08 -0500 12322 2011-11-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12322_IMG1384_1321914980.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12322_IMG1167_1321914980.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12322_IMG1325_1321914980.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12322_IMG1326_1321914980.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12322_IMG1236_1321914980.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12321-on-the-road-with-angie-payne http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12321-on-the-road-with-angie-payne Angie Payne helped to reinvent and reinvigorate women’s climbing. Born and raised in Cincinnati, Ohio, Angie began climbing indoors at the age of eleven. She moved to Boulder, Colorado in 2003 to attend the University of Colorado. Her tenure in one of the world’s top climbing destinations paid off—not only did she excel at her studies, but also won three ABS National Championships and two PCA competitions in the 2003-2004 season. Over the next four years, she added 8 top three finishes to her competitive bouldering resume. In 2011, she won the EMS Pro in Central... ]]> Mon, 21 Nov 2011 21:54:38 -0500 12321 2011-11-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12321_IMG6450_1321913416.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12320-highballs-ned-feehally http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12320-highballs-ned-feehally Highballing in Northumberland ]]> Mon, 21 Nov 2011 21:33:00 -0500 12320 2011-11-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_NedTheProw_1321911198.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_NedTheYoung_1321911198.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12317-sonnie-trotter-and-will-stanhope-climb-yosemites-prophet-513d http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12317-sonnie-trotter-and-will-stanhope-climb-yosemites-prophet-513d BREAKING NEWS: One year after Leo's legendary first ascent of the Prophet (5.13d R), Canadian climbers and fellow Five Ten Athletes, Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope climb one of Yosemite’s boldest and hardest free climbs. Sonnie managed to free every pitch, with only 1 fall in all 13 pitches, while Will climbed everything but the final crux clean. An outstanding effort on their part, especially considering this was Sonnie's first El Cap route EVER. The duo spent their birthday’s on the climb (November 15 and 16), starting up on November 14th, what a gift they... ]]> Mon, 21 Nov 2011 18:19:00 -0500 12317 2011-11-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12317_TheRealProphets11_1321899840.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12317_TheRealProphets3_1321899841.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12317_TheRealProphets7_1321899842.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12317_TheRealProphets6_1321899842.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12317_TheRealProphets8_1321899844.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12317_TheRealProphets9_1321899845.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12316-the-source-8c-james-pearson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12316-the-source-8c-james-pearson When I first moved to Innsbruck, The Source was known as “the Sprung project”, due to its crazy all points off dyno in the middle of the route.  I tried the project during my first visit to Schwarze Wand, pulling through the quickdraws to arrive in the jump, then failing miserably on the move, again and again and again, finally lowering off thinking it would be a damn hard route. ]]> Mon, 21 Nov 2011 11:38:00 -0500 12316 2011-11-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12316_CIMG20231_1321906092.jpg