http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12321-on-the-road-with-angie-payne http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12321-on-the-road-with-angie-payne Angie Payne helped to reinvent and reinvigorate women’s climbing. Born and raised in Cincinnati, Ohio, Angie began climbing indoors at the age of eleven. She moved to Boulder, Colorado in 2003 to attend the University of Colorado. Her tenure in one of the world’s top climbing destinations paid off—not only did she excel at her studies, but also won three ABS National Championships and two PCA competitions in the 2003-2004 season. Over the next four years, she added 8 top three finishes to her competitive bouldering resume. In 2011, she won the EMS Pro in Central... ]]> Mon, 21 Nov 2011 21:54:38 -0500 12321 2011-11-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12321_IMG6450_1321913416.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12320-highballs-ned-feehally http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12320-highballs-ned-feehally Highballing in Northumberland ]]> Mon, 21 Nov 2011 21:33:00 -0500 12320 2011-11-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_NedTheProw_1321911198.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_NedTheYoung_1321911198.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12317-sonnie-trotter-and-will-stanhope-climb-yosemites-prophet-513d http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12317-sonnie-trotter-and-will-stanhope-climb-yosemites-prophet-513d BREAKING NEWS: One year after Leo's legendary first ascent of the Prophet (5.13d R), Canadian climbers and fellow Five Ten Athletes, Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope climb one of Yosemite’s boldest and hardest free climbs. Sonnie managed to free every pitch, with only 1 fall in all 13 pitches, while Will climbed everything but the final crux clean. An outstanding effort on their part, especially considering this was Sonnie's first El Cap route EVER. The duo spent their birthday’s on the climb (November 15 and 16), starting up on November 14th, what a gift they... ]]> Mon, 21 Nov 2011 18:19:00 -0500 12317 2011-11-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12317_TheRealProphets11_1321899840.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12317_TheRealProphets3_1321899841.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12317_TheRealProphets7_1321899842.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12317_TheRealProphets6_1321899842.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12317_TheRealProphets8_1321899844.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12317_TheRealProphets9_1321899845.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12316-the-source-8c-james-pearson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12316-the-source-8c-james-pearson When I first moved to Innsbruck, The Source was known as “the Sprung project”, due to its crazy all points off dyno in the middle of the route.  I tried the project during my first visit to Schwarze Wand, pulling through the quickdraws to arrive in the jump, then failing miserably on the move, again and again and again, finally lowering off thinking it would be a damn hard route. ]]> Mon, 21 Nov 2011 11:38:00 -0500 12316 2011-11-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12316_CIMG20231_1321906092.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12314-lovestory-20-emanuel-moosburger http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12314-lovestory-20-emanuel-moosburger Love 2.0 is a sportroute located in the Zillertal Valley in Austria. It's background isn't the typical "found line-bolted it-climbed it" one, it has a different story to tell... In the mid 80's of the past century, Gerhard Hörhager, Austrian sportclimbing pioneer and living legend, bolted a line going through the middle of the north face of the "Wächter" bloc at a crag called Ewige Jagdgründe. As the wall was totally blank he drilled some holds, which was a common thing to do back then, and climbed the route, calling it "Hounts of Love", 8a. ]]> Sun, 20 Nov 2011 10:45:00 -0500 12314 2011-11-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Love 2.01_1321785918.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Love 2.02_1321785918.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Love 2.03_1321785919.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Love 2.04_1321785919.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12313-fffound-second-ascent-ferran-guerrero-hervas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12313-fffound-second-ascent-ferran-guerrero-hervas Yesterday Met I proposed to return to Codol to the end of their course of boulder climbing and our room along with some partners decided to go to spend the morning (at least me), they still did not know, had always gone to and I wanted Savassona to know a new place for them, so I headed for Codol. The morning boded no better, in terms of touch, very foggy, but inexplicably has been among the first places where the fog has lifted, when I was at 14:00 in the distance fog was still there and Savassona and were... ]]> Sat, 19 Nov 2011 15:34:00 -0500 12313 2011-11-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12313_08_1321906699.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12313_09_1321906699.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12313_010_1321906699.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12313_011_1321906699.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12313_00_1321906700.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12313_01_1321906700.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12313_02_1321906700.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12312-inga-daniel-jung http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12312-inga-daniel-jung At the end of September I was in Gorges du Loup. I climbed in Deverse a nice overhanging wall with some tufas. Most of the routes are chipped sadly. But there are also some very nice natural lines! I enjoyed trying “Inga” 9a, the most overhanging line on that wall. It was first climbed by Dai Koyamada and repeated by Enzo Oddo. ]]> Sat, 19 Nov 2011 12:49:00 -0500 12312 2011-11-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_DanielINGAvonGuillaumeLebret_1321706950.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12311-tom-cruise-trained-to-rock-climb-by-aaron-tague-outsideonlinecom http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12311-tom-cruise-trained-to-rock-climb-by-aaron-tague-outsideonlinecom http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/rock-climbing/Cold-Call-Risky-Business.html ]]> Fri, 18 Nov 2011 23:25:47 -0500 12311 2011-11-18 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12311_Tom-Cruise-Trained-to-Rock-Climb-by-Aaron-Tague---Rock-Climbing---OutsideOnline.com20111118152215_1321658926.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12309-the-ice-knife-david-graham http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12309-the-ice-knife-david-graham I'm sitting on a plane again, its November 15th, and I am watching "the Fall of the Third Reich." It's been quite an adventure since I last chimed in on the blog-scape and I think I have too many stories to tell as usual the I can handle dispersing into words. Between the rock climbing, the crazy amount of travel, reunions with old friends, music, fiesta, and all of the new people I have come across on the recent adventure, I am a bit stumped as to where to begin. Which feels like is a typical statement I make... ]]> Fri, 18 Nov 2011 16:29:00 -0500 12309 2011-11-18 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_TheIceKnife1_1321633755.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_TheIceKnife2_1321633757.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_TheIceKnife3_1321633758.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_TheIceKnife4_1321633759.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Black1_1321633759.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Radiant_1321633759.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Reno_1321633759.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12307-petzl-roc-trip-in-china-melissa-le-neve http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12307-petzl-roc-trip-in-china-melissa-le-neve Petzl Roc trip in Mexico last year, Petzl Roc trip in China this year ! Nihau China ! I had the chance to be part again in this kind of event this year and it was especially and totally amazing ! ]]> Fri, 18 Nov 2011 13:07:00 -0500 12307 2011-11-18 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12307_P1020343_1321635959.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12307_P1020328_1321635960.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12307_P1020301_1321635960.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12307_P1020345_1321635960.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12307_P1020380_1321635961.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12307_P1020297_1321635961.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12307_P1020374_1321635962.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12303-my-ascent-of-the-mandala-v12-giovanni-traversi http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12303-my-ascent-of-the-mandala-v12-giovanni-traversi This trip to Bishop was a success. I completed my project! I sent The Mandala (V12)! I went with my girlfriend Tiffani and she made a ton of progress on her projects...which are...Bachar Problem Left (V5) in the Buttermilks...she also made a lot of progress on Molly (V5) in the Sad Boulders! I am back home now for a week resting and going to school...2 flappers on my hand and 3 gashes in my tips. I am going back to Bishop for Thanksgiving... so i will be back there in 5 days! My NEW Projects are... The... ]]> Thu, 17 Nov 2011 10:20:00 -0500 12303 2011-11-17 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12303_Mazeofdeath_1321565255.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12302-china-wrap-up-and-hueco-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12302-china-wrap-up-and-hueco-jon-cardwell I’m officially back in Boulder now, my home base in the us. Well, not officially, I’m leaving in a couple days to Wichita, Kansas to reset a climbing wall with my friend and coworker at Movement Climbing and Fitness, Ryan Sewell. I’ll be gone through the weekend setting and doing bit of coaching for the local climbers. After that, I will finally be at home for bit. The last month has been a whirlwind of traveling, climbing and work. It all started in California where I met up with Kevin Newell and Beau Khaler en route to China for... ]]> Wed, 16 Nov 2011 20:30:00 -0500 12302 2011-11-16 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0351_1321475446.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0356_1321475447.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0395_1321475447.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0407_1321475448.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0424_1321475449.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12301-a-nice-little-visit-phiilip-schaal http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12301-a-nice-little-visit-phiilip-schaal Yesterday I was lucky enough to see Ronnie Jenkins here in Colorado.  It is always a good time when Ronnie is around.  We only had the day but we made the most of it.  It was a brisk day out at Clear Creek Canyon.  Ronnie and didn't climb much but had a nice Monday climbing outside.  I cant wait until the next time. ]]> Wed, 16 Nov 2011 18:21:58 -0500 12301 2011-11-16 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12301_IMG0051_1321467947.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12301_IMG0050_1321467947.jpeg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12300-comp-season-is-starting-sebastien-lazure http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12300-comp-season-is-starting-sebastien-lazure Outdoor season here is slowly disappearing under fallen leaves! At least comps are there to keep us motivated! Last week, Joe Rockhead's Rock Gym in Toronto held the first TDB comp of the year! It went pretty well for me, especially in finals! I was confident and felt good! I finished 3rd in qualification and 1st in finals!! Route setter did an amazing job, with a slightly different style then usual.. maybe cause of the clinic they had we Tonde! more volumes!! ]]> Wed, 16 Nov 2011 04:28:00 -0500 12300 2011-11-16 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_201111050186bonuel1024x680_1321417713.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12296-minneapolis-gym-opening-alex-johnson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12296-minneapolis-gym-opening-alex-johnson Growing up in Wisconsin left me a pretty rockless rock climber, and as much as the purebred outdoor climbers hate to admit it--thank God for climbing gyms! I was lucky enough to have a great gym pretty close to my hometown. When I make my brief stops back at home, I love heading back into the since-remodeled, Nicros-owned Vertical Endeavors in St. Paul, Minnesota, so when I heard they were planning on opening another gym in the Twin Cities area I couldn't wait to see what they had planned! Here's a great video of a... ]]> Mon, 14 Nov 2011 22:00:00 -0500 12296 2011-11-14 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_1006116half_1321308014.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12294-transmission-joy-division-james-pearson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12294-transmission-joy-division-james-pearson I can finally (so happily) say, that last month I made the first "1 push" ascent of Joy Division - The big wall in Val di Mello I have been working on all summer.  The story of the ascent is long, too long for right now as I am rushing out to go training, but thankfully, The North Face has just released an incredible video along with a small write-up and some pretty pictures. ]]> Mon, 14 Nov 2011 12:27:00 -0500 12294 2011-11-14 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12294_IMAG01151_1321310780.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12292-get-up-at-the-gunks-patrick-krieger http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12292-get-up-at-the-gunks-patrick-krieger Last weekend my compadres and I found that all the populous of the east coast seemed to only have autumn foliage on their mind.  Such was reflected at the Shawangunks, just outside of New Paltz, wheretraffic was dense, travel slow, and sleeping quarters were scarce amongst the throngs of hikers, tourists, cyclists, and decidedly fewer climbers. ]]> Mon, 14 Nov 2011 03:09:00 -0500 12292 2011-11-14 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_8Gunks_5.10_1321240194.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_9Gunks_5.10_1321240196.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG_9139_5.10_1321240197.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG_9145_5.10_1321240197.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG_8487_5.10_1321240198.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG_8492_5.10_1321240198.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG_8520_5.10_1321240199.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12291-petzl-roc-trip-in-china-nina-caprez http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12291-petzl-roc-trip-in-china-nina-caprez Well well, it's high time to write about one of the best trip I've ever done in my life, the Petzl Roc Trip in Getu Valley. In my eyes, it was a journey in an inconnu world. A world with another rhythm of life, time and people. Erwann Lelann transformed this lost place in China in a kind of a climbing paradise with a minimum of structure. Structure in China will never be the same as in Europe or America and for us foreigners, everything was just crazy and incredible. ]]> Sun, 13 Nov 2011 19:42:00 -0500 12291 2011-11-13 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12291_1233705263de7ae6cf51578c7a56530b_1321309422.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12290-training-studying-and-competing-luke-muller http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12290-training-studying-and-competing-luke-muller So last week was my first competition and it was a great success.  It was the first competition the Calgary Climbing Centre had had put on in two years and it was amazing. There were sixty routes, over 150 competitors and people came out from all over including BC, Edmonton, Lethbridge and Canmore. Lots of fun with great people.  The competition was finished with a slack line competition. I would have thought I would have won the slack lining with my strip tease performance, but apparently no one wants to see that. ]]> Sun, 13 Nov 2011 19:38:00 -0500 12290 2011-11-13 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12290_IMG1643_1321377977.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12288-decoding-crazy-slab-ferran-guerrero-hervas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12288-decoding-crazy-slab-ferran-guerrero-hervas Today had to be one of those days to decipher, and has been estrenábamos crash pad, custom made for us, to our taste, colors and composition chosen, you could smell the damp, cool, fall descifrábamos movements. ]]> Sat, 12 Nov 2011 19:25:00 -0500 12288 2011-11-12 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12288_04_1321308395.jpg