http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12365-joes-valley-recon-mission-emily-dudley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12365-joes-valley-recon-mission-emily-dudley Over Thanksgiving break a crew and I went to Joe’s Valley Utah for five days of bouldering. The crew consisted of Paul “P.Diddy” Dusatko, Andrea “I’m not barfy” Trujillo, Zach “Centerfold” Lerner, Gentle Ben and me. The forecast looked perfect; dry and cool. After a grueling week of setting for an ABS Local competition and a couple weeks of trying and falling off projects I was tired and in need of a vacation. I went without a clear goal in mind; I was just psyched to climb on beautiful sandstone boulders. ]]> Tue, 29 Nov 2011 06:13:00 -0500 12365 2011-11-29 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_JoesValleyBigJoe_1322547226.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12363-getting-psyched-for-regionals-riley-joyce http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12363-getting-psyched-for-regionals-riley-joyce All I could think about today in school was to send this route in the gym. I was looking at the clock, seeing minutes going by. It felt like every class period was so long. When the last bell rang to get out of school, I went straight to the climbing gym and got on this new v6. It starts out on two big slopers and you have to hand foot match with your right foot and hand. Then you have to turn your body-- so that your back is faced to the wall and then fall into... ]]> Tue, 29 Nov 2011 04:28:00 -0500 12363 2011-11-29 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_BoulderDash_1322540920.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12362-smith-rock-riley-joyce http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12362-smith-rock-riley-joyce I finally went out to Smith Rock to get back into lead climbing for the day. Outdoor climbing is my favorite: just focus on the moment, breathing, and what is around you. Climbing in a gym is cool, with its own sick soundtrack to get you psyched. But outdoors is super peaceful-- you can hear the birds chirping softly, and super focus on your technique. I was feeling very strong with my Anasazis on; their thick rubber soles were perfect for Smith, and gave me great heel hooks on the technical ascents. And I totally got... ]]> Tue, 29 Nov 2011 03:21:00 -0500 12362 2011-11-29 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG3273_1322536909.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG3284_1322536909.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG3292_1322536910.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12354-masoniamoci-8c9a-gabriele-moroni http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12354-masoniamoci-8c9a-gabriele-moroni 2nd ascent of this Adam Ondra's route in Masone(Northern Italy)! Last Tuesday I went to check out this nice winter crag near Lecco named Masone! Plan of the day was trying the moves of Adam Ondra's 2009 route Masoniamoci 8c+/9a(maybe 9a he says) and see if it could have become a possible project for the near future!...On my first day on it I was able to do all the single moves of the starting boulder problem but couldn't even link two of the hardest together. And I barely did the crux move, a deadpoint move from... ]]> Mon, 28 Nov 2011 18:43:00 -0500 12354 2011-11-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_maso1_1322505803.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_maso2_1322505803.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_maso3_1322505803.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_maso4_1322505803.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12353-the-curse-of-morrison-and-the-beauty-of-fontainebleau-angela-payne http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12353-the-curse-of-morrison-and-the-beauty-of-fontainebleau-angela-payne One of the inescapable truths in life is that history repeats itself. Almost 3 years ago, I made my first trip to the infamous Colorado area called Morrison. I tried Center Route, the classic V10 of the area. Two days later, I took an unlucky fall in the gym and suffered an ankle injury that ended up taking almost a year to recover from. ]]> Mon, 28 Nov 2011 18:35:00 -0500 12353 2011-11-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_DSC02979_1322505344.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_DSC03011_1322505344.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_DSC02990_1322505345.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_DSC03001_1322505346.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12352-y-mountain-joel-anderson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12352-y-mountain-joel-anderson This past Saturday I found my way up to this rad 70-100 foot wall above the Y Mountain in Provo, Utah. I look up at the wall and I say to myself "Go Climb!" Being psyched for the climb, I start free solo climbing and think to myself halfway up am I really doing this? Then after a brief minute I get back to climbing and finally see the top. First step on the top was an awesome feeling, gazing at the vast air and mountains was breath taking, absolutely beautiful. It was a good day for climbing... ... ]]> Mon, 28 Nov 2011 17:44:00 -0500 12352 2011-11-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_DSC005352_1322502266.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12351-the-boa-frederic-julien-nicole http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12351-the-boa-frederic-julien-nicole Here a picture of the Boa, a boulder problem I opened in Switzerland this year. It is a sit down start on a big snake like looking structure, which also gives the name to the problem. Some powerful moves on pockets underclings that bring you to a tricky traverse with more pockets and a finish with long moves into a big flake. It ends in another problem called “Mosaik”. The first four moves are by far the hardest, but the last ten are quite delicate and bring a great dimension to the line. You can see the... ]]> Mon, 28 Nov 2011 10:46:00 -0500 12351 2011-11-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_PrananewsLeBoa_1322477174.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12350-climbing-in-arkansauce-kyle-francis http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12350-climbing-in-arkansauce-kyle-francis Sorry for the late blog post, I've been super swamped with school work, so blame that! Earlier this month I went to Arkansas with a couple of my buddies from Texas and we had an unbelievable trip.it started off arriving Friday at like three in the morning, which wasn't awesome but whatever. we woke up later on Friday and went to Fred's cave after warming up. started off on a climb called Triforce V9, which actually took me a lot of tries. then, rested a little bit and fell swinging out of the finish jug of Fred's... ]]> Mon, 28 Nov 2011 02:42:00 -0500 12350 2011-11-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_37940510150456307183974707233973104910041744044201n_1322448126.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12346-batallion-tatami-ferran-guerrero-hervas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12346-batallion-tatami-ferran-guerrero-hervas Fall, without a doubt one of the seasons that I like (fall winter and spring), but Autumn has those colors, the range of browns, today it has lifted the foggy day is what you live here, and plans were made way back we spent many hours giving discovering new problems and making first ascents with Met, Oscar, Leti, Joan and Laia, here we indulge in a virgin area at that time. ]]> Sun, 27 Nov 2011 19:14:00 -0500 12346 2011-11-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12346_04_1322522298.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12346_00_1322521709.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12346_02_1322522298.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12346_03_1322522298.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12346_05_1322522298.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12346_06_1322522298.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12346_07_1322522298.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12345-mint-vermont-weather-an-fa-and-a-trip-to-arkansas-with-brian-bittner http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12345-mint-vermont-weather-an-fa-and-a-trip-to-arkansas-with-brian-bittner This year has been a much different one in my climbing career. It started off as recent year's have with a trip South, some local spring climbing and regular training in the gym. As the weather got warmer and the climbing got a bit lack luster, work starting picking up. I run a business as an antique dealer and travel to shows throughout the Northeast to setup at shows. I found myself especially busy this year. I had more house calls, found more merchandise and went to more antique shows to sell. The result of this was significantly less... ]]> Sun, 27 Nov 2011 18:39:00 -0500 12345 2011-11-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_OGE_1322419151.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12344-4-annual-ice-night-andres-marin http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12344-4-annual-ice-night-andres-marin I just came back from the 4th Annual Ice Night which took place at the City Rock climbing gym in Colorado Springs. The event was super fun. Tons of people climbing with ice tools YES ice tools!!!! I also had the great pleasure of giving a slide show about my most recent expedition to Kyrgyzstan where my partner and I climbed two new huge alpine faces and we were the first American expedition to visit that mountain range. At the event there was a competition where I placed 3rd !!!!!! Overall, a great... ]]> Sun, 27 Nov 2011 06:21:00 -0500 12344 2011-11-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0877_1322374898.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12343-fall-andrew-plagens http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12343-fall-andrew-plagens So this fall has been pretty good so far. I have been trying to get out and climb as much as possible. I have been climbing in Poudre Canyon with my friends Morgan and Dane. Poudre has some high quality granite and is a super fun place to climb. It is nice because it doesn't get crazy crowded like Boulder Canyon or Eldo. Another fun place to climb near Poudre is the Horse Tooth reservoir. Its mainly bouldering and is a great place to spend the afternoon. Morgan and I are getting geared up for the winter, we hope... ]]> Sun, 27 Nov 2011 02:13:00 -0500 12343 2011-11-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_mypics243_1322360021.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12342-tanksgiving-chris-schulte http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12342-tanksgiving-chris-schulte Sat, 26 Nov 2011 00:27:00 -0500 12342 2011-11-26 http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12339-great-days-at-fontainebleau-miguel-navarro http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12339-great-days-at-fontainebleau-miguel-navarro The last October, i spend 17 awesome days at Fontainebleau, climbing almost everyday..... always i go to this amazing boulder land, i´ll comeback to home excited and with the motivation over the sky.It was a really good days around La Foret, hundreds of best boulders in the world waiting for us, a lot of classics done and three of the best hard lines in the forest are in my tick list now.RainbowRocketBig DragonTigre et DragonHere one of that cool boulders i have done this last trip to Font ]]> Thu, 24 Nov 2011 22:57:00 -0500 12339 2011-11-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_family_1322175477.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0566_1322175477.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Fontainebleau211_1322175479.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_manquant_1322175479.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_63217873404c9afec1afb_1322175479.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_michelanch_1322175480.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12337-fall-season-ben-isaac-tresco http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12337-fall-season-ben-isaac-tresco Thu, 24 Nov 2011 19:53:00 -0500 12337 2011-11-24 http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12335-setting-in-kansas-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12335-setting-in-kansas-jon-cardwell Last weekend I was invited to a small gym in Wichita, Kansas to set a small bouldering comp and for some coaching. I took off early Friday morning. I was particularly worked from setting for an ABS comp the day before in Fort Collins and a week of hard work at the gym + recovering from a bout of food poisoning in Hueco…excuses… However, Ryan Sewell, fellow setter and coworker at Movement is perpetually psyched on making things happen. I know a lot of people are like this, but Ryan really, really wants to get things done. Thus, I... ]]> Thu, 24 Nov 2011 02:54:00 -0500 12335 2011-11-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0431_1322103243.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0432_1322103244.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0433_1322103245.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0434_1322103245.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0435_1322103246.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0434_1322103247.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0437_1322103247.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12332-thankful-brian-dunnohew http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12332-thankful-brian-dunnohew This is not really a blog post about finding specific rad new lines or the latest new ticks, it's about how thankful I am for climbing. I know it seems like we are never completely satisfied with our climbing; we are always training, pushing personal grades, searching for the best boulders or routes and always wanting more. From a non-climbing view it might seem insane to work on a problems or routes for hours, days, seasons, years, working through frustrations with beta and conditions...and it is maddening. Then when we finally succeed, not much more than a few high... ]]> Wed, 23 Nov 2011 17:16:00 -0500 12332 2011-11-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_font_1322068570.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12331-stars-shining-at-kendal-steve-mcclure http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12331-stars-shining-at-kendal-steve-mcclure As a kid, in fact even as an adult, I looked up to the stars of the climbing world. Then slowly, as you meet them you realize they are actually normal people. It’s almost a surprise! Ben Moon is Human! But some stars remain up there, and even when you get to know them well, there is still just something about them that sets them apart. I can be having a totally normal conversation about something totally normal, but there is something else, a depth of history surrounding us like a mist. Unseen but felt. ... ]]> Wed, 23 Nov 2011 11:10:00 -0500 12331 2011-11-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_1122kendalfest_1322046622.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12329-transitions-luke-muller http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12329-transitions-luke-muller So we (the Calgary Climbing Center Adult Team) appeared on a local breakfast television show this morning. It was pretty good except for the crazy early start this morning, having to arrive at the gym at 7am and then proceed to do monkey tricks and show off problems for the people of Calgary to get their days ready at the sight of. ]]> Wed, 23 Nov 2011 06:31:00 -0500 12329 2011-11-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG1034_1322029880.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12328-bus-de-velatrento-end-of-the-season-gabriele-moroni http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12328-bus-de-velatrento-end-of-the-season-gabriele-moroni One more FA before the season closes... After China I needed a break... a mix of 30+ hours of travel and airports,jet lag and fatigue killed my body and my mind... So I took one week of rest. After this stop I was starting to feel ok so I slowly began to climb again... First a couple of times in the gym doing easy stuffs then some fingerboard sessions at home and finally a couple of days on the rock again! ]]> Tue, 22 Nov 2011 22:30:00 -0500 12328 2011-11-22 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_326087269952041366614263226083140086539271891o_1322001042.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_3405522699522893728142632260831400871567500060o_1322001042.jpg