http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12462-california-vacation-carlo-traversi http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12462-california-vacation-carlo-traversi Living in Colorado and traveling the World as much as possible rarely allows time for visits home (Northern California), but every year around Christmas I make it a point to drop everything and either fly or drive to the Bay Area. This year I drove home with my girlfriend Mary Mecklenburg. She has spent only a little time in California before, so we took our time on the drive out to explore California a bit. It's been about a year since I've been back to California on my own time, and it was great to visit... ]]> Tue, 03 Jan 2012 00:07:00 -0500 12462 2012-01-03 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0463-1325549234.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_picture-6-2-1325549233.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_picture-7-2-1325549234.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12459-winter-bouldering-2011-urs-moosmuller http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12459-winter-bouldering-2011-urs-moosmuller For the past few weeks I have been staying in Reno, Nevada visiting friends and family for the holidays. The weather here is incredibly warm with highs in the upper 50’s, sunny days, and no sign of snow. I have been bouldering outdoors every chance I get and through this process I created a video of all the first ascents Tory and I have been finding. We started exploring two main areas were both of us had been, but never really put any serious effort into developing. The Somersett boulders are a really small granite outcropping right inside... ]]> Sat, 31 Dec 2011 20:50:00 -0500 12459 2011-12-31 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_hill-9-3-1325364632.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_hill-9-5-1325364632.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_hill-9-2-1325364632.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_hill-9-1-1325364632.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12458-no-bolts-no-holds-first-ascent-ferran-guerrero-hervas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12458-no-bolts-no-holds-first-ascent-ferran-guerrero-hervas Today ends the year, and the best way to fire him if it was like climbing, even remotely expected to do nothing special just spend the day hiking with my partner Met and my dog?? Güllich , but there are days when you surprise yourself. The idea was none other than keep working on the last one, which this great billet currency, No bolts No holds, the name says it all, there is no prey nor parabolts handholds, all is blunt and rounded feet down each more precarious, for protection? no until you have passed all the crux. ... ]]> Sat, 31 Dec 2011 18:20:00 -0500 12458 2011-12-31 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12458_00-1325694231.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12458_01-1325694231.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12458_02-1325694231.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12458_03-1325694231.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12458_05-1325694231.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12458_06-1325694231.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12458_07-1325694231.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12455-happy-holidays-luke-muller http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12455-happy-holidays-luke-muller I haven't written in a couple weeks just been crazy busy with school, Christmas and climbing.  The school semester is done and I have been enjoying sleeping, eating and hanging out.  Thank god that semester is done. ]]> Fri, 30 Dec 2011 20:47:00 -0500 12455 2011-12-30 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1283-1325278027.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1414-1325278027.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1344-1325278028.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12454-new-development-in-the-red-river-gorge-tim-rose http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12454-new-development-in-the-red-river-gorge-tim-rose We arrived in the Red River Gorge on the 17th of December for a short 4 day trip.  This will be my second trip to the NRG this season and I have still only seen a very small part of what the New has to offer in terms of bouldering. ]]> Fri, 30 Dec 2011 17:02:00 -0500 12454 2011-12-30 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bitchs-trose-small-er-1325264565.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_slab-proj0002-1325264565.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12453-between-a-rock-and-a-schnitzel-climbing-in-zillertal-and-imst-joseph-gifford http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12453-between-a-rock-and-a-schnitzel-climbing-in-zillertal-and-imst-joseph-gifford After two weeks of being in Rodellar and climbing some amazing rock Alex, Josh, Nick and I took a flight to Zurich and drove to Imst, Austria for the Youth World Championship. We picked up Danny Aleowski and Alex Fritz and took a 3 day detour to the Zillertal Valley, an amazing climbing area in the magnificent mountains of Austria. ]]> Fri, 30 Dec 2011 15:01:00 -0500 12453 2011-12-30 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc00610-1325257298.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_308546-2452231545479-1242739463-32959391-2066012048-n-1-1325257298.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_197-1-1325257298.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc00637-1325257298.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_225-1-1325257298.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_0985-1325257298.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc00717-1325257299.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12452-christmas-break-sierra-carroll http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12452-christmas-break-sierra-carroll Its been a great Winter Break so far, decided to go skiing yesterday as well as a few days ago since some of the days here in Colorado have been a little too cold for climbing outside. Though I would love to have been able to climb outside at some of my favorite climbing locations such as Shelf Road, it has just been too cold most days in Colorado to really be able to plan trips to Shelf to climb sadly. So instead yesterday my family and I decided to go up to Copper Mountain and spend the day... ]]> Fri, 30 Dec 2011 04:43:00 -0500 12452 2011-12-30 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_mountains-2-1325220235.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_mountains-1325220235.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_mountain-3-1325220235.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12449-totxo-del-clot-del-tambor-totxo-de-la-silfides-ferran-guerrero-hervas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12449-totxo-del-clot-del-tambor-totxo-de-la-silfides-ferran-guerrero-hervas Yesterday and today Montserrat touch to play again, but this time a large stone that had been forgotten since I did a couple of classic tracks and totxo so near Roca and Marc Pol Giol Totxo toward the Clot delTambor (Totxo La Sylphide)By so long since I was around here that we have lost up the road, did not remember this so knackered, I guess it was because of the floods but the Castell had not passed in a time of at least 12 years, as thingsare the distance and how many days and days I had to climb... ]]> Thu, 29 Dec 2011 19:46:00 -0500 12449 2011-12-29 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12449_00-1325696993.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12449_01-1325696993.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12449_02-1325696993.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12449_03-1325696993.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12449_04-1325696993.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12449_05-1325696993.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12449_09-1325696993.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12447-south-mountain-az-michael-beyer http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12447-south-mountain-az-michael-beyer So, I finally had my winter break from College up at NAU. When I got home my buddies took me to South Mountain and told me of the projects that have been made open. We looked at these, one being a slopey, compression roof problem, guessed to be v13. This was a bit to much. Then we stumbled upon a slightly overhung crimp rail traverse, to a few crux moves at the end leading to a fun, and secure top out. This line inspired me, and is guessed to be a v12. Since this I have worked it on... ]]> Thu, 29 Dec 2011 03:00:00 -0500 12447 2011-12-29 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12447_sm-1-1325175799.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12445-jumpin-jack-flash-a-la-miranda-de-les-boigues-ferran-guerrero-hervas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12445-jumpin-jack-flash-a-la-miranda-de-les-boigues-ferran-guerrero-hervas As usual by this time I have a tradition to go to make a long way disfrutona to Montserrat, which if not the best place in the world?? This, of course I have no doubt. My problem lately was put in accordance with the staff to be able to go, it looked like the year and my personal tradition had vanished. ]]> Wed, 28 Dec 2011 15:58:00 -0500 12445 2011-12-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12445_06-1325200807.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12445_00-1325200807.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12445_01-1325200807.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12445_02-1325200807.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12445_03-1325200807.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12445_04-1325200807.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12445_013-1325200808.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12444-rodellar-joseph-gifford http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12444-rodellar-joseph-gifford Alex Johnson, Josh Levine, Nick Milburn and I arrived in Rodellar, Spain after a 3 hour car ride from Barcelona. Rodellar has the best climbing I have ever experienced. Rodellar is in a huge canyon with many styles of climbing. There’s probably a tufa on almost every climb. One of the first areas we climbed in Rodellar was the Las Ventanas, a huge slightly over hanging wall with two arches to the right of it, and on one of the arches was a climb called El Dolphin 13a ,a classic climb with a sweet body rest at... ]]> Wed, 28 Dec 2011 12:39:00 -0500 12444 2011-12-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc00441-1325075958.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc00444-1325075959.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_053-1325075959.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc00417-1325075959.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc00456-1325075959.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_088-1325075959.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc00422-1325075959.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12442-red-river-wrap-up-ben-spannuth http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12442-red-river-wrap-up-ben-spannuth Overall my first trip to the Red was fantastic, but one route in particular stands out in quality of rock and movement that parallels or exceeds the best climbs I've seen from around the world. ]]> Wed, 28 Dec 2011 07:13:00 -0500 12442 2011-12-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_omaha-1325056380.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0213-1325056380.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0231-1325056382.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_golden-ticket-tree-1325056383.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0244-1325056385.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dave-gt-1325056386.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12440-bishop-short-and-sweet-vikki-weldon http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12440-bishop-short-and-sweet-vikki-weldon I love road trips. I get to eat pasta (my favorite!), drink tea out of a thermos, sit by the fire and stare at the stars, and roll in the dirt and then not shower afterwards. Best of all, it means that I'm climbing. Roll that all together and you get one happy girl. On December 13th, just 3 hours after I finished my last exam of the semester (only one more year until I'm a registered nurse!), I packed up my '89 Nissan Sentra, lovingly named 'The Gopher', picked up my pals Ayesha and Matt, and busted south.... ]]> Sat, 24 Dec 2011 22:59:00 -0500 12440 2011-12-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_mrwitty-1324767590.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0545-1324767590.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_thehulk-1-1-1324767590.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12439-its-beginning-to-look-a-lot-like-christmas-literally-emily-dudley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12439-its-beginning-to-look-a-lot-like-christmas-literally-emily-dudley Snow, snow, snow! It is snowing in Colorado. Which makes sense, it is December. However, I am always surprised by the weather; it can be sunny and 50 degrees one week and the next 7 degrees with ten inches of snow. The arrival of snow here means one thing. It is training time because Hueco season is upon us.I have been putting mad time in at the gym, getting my crimp on! I have unfinished business in Hueco, last year I fell off the top of It’s a Good Day for Swiss Crisp Mix_V10, twice. I can’t wait to... ]]> Sat, 24 Dec 2011 19:33:00 -0500 12439 2011-12-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_gym-sesh-1324755195.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12438-motivation-from-all-the-right-places-emily-dudley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12438-motivation-from-all-the-right-places-emily-dudley December is a busy time for everyone with finals, the holidays, and the height of competition season.On December 10th we hosted the ABS13 Youth Regionals at Miramont Lifestyle Fitness. I love setting for youth competitions. All the problems fit me perfectly and the kids are amazing. I can’t believe how good the competitors are. From the youngest kids to the 18 year olds, the talent is unbelievable. The future of our sport is in capable hands. The next generation is going to do things we did not think possible. All the kids are so psyched! It is very inspiring.... ]]> Sat, 24 Dec 2011 19:30:00 -0500 12438 2011-12-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_can-opener-v11-1324755033.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12437-regionals-delaney-miller http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12437-regionals-delaney-miller Two weeks ago was bouldering regionals. I took first, but I had made quite a few mistakes. I suppose that's what competitions are really about- efficiency. Everybody makes mistakes, everybody is usually strong and capable of the climbs as well. But in most cases, especially at higher level competitions, the climbers that are most efficient and minimizes their mistakes are the ones that take first. I'm glad this competition was not nationals because there would have been even more strong climbers trying to be the most efficient. Two weeks ago there were seven girls in my category. At divisionals,... ]]> Sat, 24 Dec 2011 16:36:00 -0500 12437 2011-12-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_delaney-regionals-1324744572.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12436-finding-success-in-failure-jess-taverna http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12436-finding-success-in-failure-jess-taverna In an earlier post, I alluded to some changes in the way I think about success and failure in climbing. Over the past year, I’ve been working to develop what you might say is a healthier relationship with climbing, spurred on particularly by my first big alpine trip. Understanding why this has been a difficult but necessary process requires knowing a little more about me. My own self-awareness was enhanced recently by a personality test of sorts I had to take during a staff retreat at work. Couched in terms of uncovering each individual’s “strengths,” the test results provided... ]]> Sat, 24 Dec 2011 15:07:00 -0500 12436 2011-12-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_sam-7392-1324739248.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_sam-7396-1324739251.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_resized-1324739252.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12435-catching-up-alex-johnson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12435-catching-up-alex-johnson Well I'm posted up in Santa Cruz, California for a minute. I've now been on the road for over two months, fully recovered from the Wisdom Teeth/Concussion epidemic. (Although I'm still waiting for my tooth chasms to creep the rest of the way closed...) ]]> Fri, 23 Dec 2011 21:30:00 -0500 12435 2011-12-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-5058-half-1324675858.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-5074-half-1324675859.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-5118-half-1324675859.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12433-winter-in-california-mayan-smith-gobat http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12433-winter-in-california-mayan-smith-gobat After five weeks in New Zealand, it felt like high time to leave... The weather had changed to a nasty Easterly flow. Low-lying cloud rolls in off the sea, leaving Christchurch damp and miserable. "The Cave" is worst of all - It is the one place left to climb, and faces due east, therefore immediately becoming a nasty spooge bowl! A week before I left I came very close to climbing one of the few climbs which I have not climbed in the Cave, but the Easterly made a send impossible. A little frustrating, yet it made leaving NZ... ]]> Wed, 21 Dec 2011 18:49:00 -0500 12433 2011-12-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1422-1324493379.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1399-1324493379.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12432-sandstone-staples-colette-mcinerney http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12432-sandstone-staples-colette-mcinerney I remember getting bored on my first long road trips. I did my best to prepare with an arms load of books, journals, or playing cards. I would even try out new hobbies like knitting or baking or something. Usually I wouldn’t really like these hobby, the books would get read, my writing wasn’t all that notable and at the end of those long, long rest days I wanted something else to DO. ]]> Wed, 21 Dec 2011 15:00:00 -0500 12432 2011-12-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0427-1324479621.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0925-1324479621.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3520-1324479621.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3107-1324479621.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0556-1324479621.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-2204-1324479621.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3066-1324479621.jpg