http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12444-rodellar-joseph-gifford http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12444-rodellar-joseph-gifford Alex Johnson, Josh Levine, Nick Milburn and I arrived in Rodellar, Spain after a 3 hour car ride from Barcelona. Rodellar has the best climbing I have ever experienced. Rodellar is in a huge canyon with many styles of climbing. There’s probably a tufa on almost every climb. One of the first areas we climbed in Rodellar was the Las Ventanas, a huge slightly over hanging wall with two arches to the right of it, and on one of the arches was a climb called El Dolphin 13a ,a classic climb with a sweet body rest at... ]]> Wed, 28 Dec 2011 12:39:00 -0500 12444 2011-12-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc00441-1325075958.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc00444-1325075959.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_053-1325075959.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc00417-1325075959.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc00456-1325075959.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_088-1325075959.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc00422-1325075959.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12442-red-river-wrap-up-ben-spannuth http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12442-red-river-wrap-up-ben-spannuth Overall my first trip to the Red was fantastic, but one route in particular stands out in quality of rock and movement that parallels or exceeds the best climbs I've seen from around the world. ]]> Wed, 28 Dec 2011 07:13:00 -0500 12442 2011-12-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_omaha-1325056380.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0213-1325056380.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0231-1325056382.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_golden-ticket-tree-1325056383.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0244-1325056385.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dave-gt-1325056386.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12440-bishop-short-and-sweet-vikki-weldon http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12440-bishop-short-and-sweet-vikki-weldon I love road trips. I get to eat pasta (my favorite!), drink tea out of a thermos, sit by the fire and stare at the stars, and roll in the dirt and then not shower afterwards. Best of all, it means that I'm climbing. Roll that all together and you get one happy girl. On December 13th, just 3 hours after I finished my last exam of the semester (only one more year until I'm a registered nurse!), I packed up my '89 Nissan Sentra, lovingly named 'The Gopher', picked up my pals Ayesha and Matt, and busted south.... ]]> Sat, 24 Dec 2011 22:59:00 -0500 12440 2011-12-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_mrwitty-1324767590.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0545-1324767590.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_thehulk-1-1-1324767590.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12439-its-beginning-to-look-a-lot-like-christmas-literally-emily-dudley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12439-its-beginning-to-look-a-lot-like-christmas-literally-emily-dudley Snow, snow, snow! It is snowing in Colorado. Which makes sense, it is December. However, I am always surprised by the weather; it can be sunny and 50 degrees one week and the next 7 degrees with ten inches of snow. The arrival of snow here means one thing. It is training time because Hueco season is upon us.I have been putting mad time in at the gym, getting my crimp on! I have unfinished business in Hueco, last year I fell off the top of It’s a Good Day for Swiss Crisp Mix_V10, twice. I can’t wait to... ]]> Sat, 24 Dec 2011 19:33:00 -0500 12439 2011-12-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_gym-sesh-1324755195.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12438-motivation-from-all-the-right-places-emily-dudley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12438-motivation-from-all-the-right-places-emily-dudley December is a busy time for everyone with finals, the holidays, and the height of competition season.On December 10th we hosted the ABS13 Youth Regionals at Miramont Lifestyle Fitness. I love setting for youth competitions. All the problems fit me perfectly and the kids are amazing. I can’t believe how good the competitors are. From the youngest kids to the 18 year olds, the talent is unbelievable. The future of our sport is in capable hands. The next generation is going to do things we did not think possible. All the kids are so psyched! It is very inspiring.... ]]> Sat, 24 Dec 2011 19:30:00 -0500 12438 2011-12-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_can-opener-v11-1324755033.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12437-regionals-delaney-miller http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12437-regionals-delaney-miller Two weeks ago was bouldering regionals. I took first, but I had made quite a few mistakes. I suppose that's what competitions are really about- efficiency. Everybody makes mistakes, everybody is usually strong and capable of the climbs as well. But in most cases, especially at higher level competitions, the climbers that are most efficient and minimizes their mistakes are the ones that take first. I'm glad this competition was not nationals because there would have been even more strong climbers trying to be the most efficient. Two weeks ago there were seven girls in my category. At divisionals,... ]]> Sat, 24 Dec 2011 16:36:00 -0500 12437 2011-12-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_delaney-regionals-1324744572.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12436-finding-success-in-failure-jess-taverna http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12436-finding-success-in-failure-jess-taverna In an earlier post, I alluded to some changes in the way I think about success and failure in climbing. Over the past year, I’ve been working to develop what you might say is a healthier relationship with climbing, spurred on particularly by my first big alpine trip. Understanding why this has been a difficult but necessary process requires knowing a little more about me. My own self-awareness was enhanced recently by a personality test of sorts I had to take during a staff retreat at work. Couched in terms of uncovering each individual’s “strengths,” the test results provided... ]]> Sat, 24 Dec 2011 15:07:00 -0500 12436 2011-12-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_sam-7392-1324739248.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_sam-7396-1324739251.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_resized-1324739252.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12435-catching-up-alex-johnson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12435-catching-up-alex-johnson Well I'm posted up in Santa Cruz, California for a minute. I've now been on the road for over two months, fully recovered from the Wisdom Teeth/Concussion epidemic. (Although I'm still waiting for my tooth chasms to creep the rest of the way closed...) ]]> Fri, 23 Dec 2011 21:30:00 -0500 12435 2011-12-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-5058-half-1324675858.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-5074-half-1324675859.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-5118-half-1324675859.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12433-winter-in-california-mayan-smith-gobat http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12433-winter-in-california-mayan-smith-gobat After five weeks in New Zealand, it felt like high time to leave... The weather had changed to a nasty Easterly flow. Low-lying cloud rolls in off the sea, leaving Christchurch damp and miserable. "The Cave" is worst of all - It is the one place left to climb, and faces due east, therefore immediately becoming a nasty spooge bowl! A week before I left I came very close to climbing one of the few climbs which I have not climbed in the Cave, but the Easterly made a send impossible. A little frustrating, yet it made leaving NZ... ]]> Wed, 21 Dec 2011 18:49:00 -0500 12433 2011-12-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1422-1324493379.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1399-1324493379.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12432-sandstone-staples-colette-mcinerney http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12432-sandstone-staples-colette-mcinerney I remember getting bored on my first long road trips. I did my best to prepare with an arms load of books, journals, or playing cards. I would even try out new hobbies like knitting or baking or something. Usually I wouldn’t really like these hobby, the books would get read, my writing wasn’t all that notable and at the end of those long, long rest days I wanted something else to DO. ]]> Wed, 21 Dec 2011 15:00:00 -0500 12432 2011-12-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0427-1324479621.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0925-1324479621.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3520-1324479621.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3107-1324479621.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0556-1324479621.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-2204-1324479621.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3066-1324479621.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12431-abs-regionals-kyle-francis http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12431-abs-regionals-kyle-francis This past weekend was the regional championships, which due to an excess number of Male B boys, they had to split into qualifiers and finals. There were seven kids in my category and all advanced to divisionals so it was just for funnsies. Most of us flashed the three qualifiers. ]]> Wed, 21 Dec 2011 04:47:00 -0500 12431 2011-12-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_-mg-8471-1324442851.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_-mg-8477-1324442851.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_-mg-8472-1324442851.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_-mg-8478-1324442851.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_-mg-8473-1324442852.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12430-joes-valley-2011-ian-dory http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12430-joes-valley-2011-ian-dory Fixing the CamperWith October on the farm being so busy and life’s demands increase it’s a hard time to fit in little things like fixing a destroyed 1963 camper from the mob of teenage boys who have been “chilling” in it while I was away on my last trip. So Jes & I had to kick it into high gear to prep for the up coming road trip with our friends Amy Langemore from Australia and Nalle Hukkataival from Finland. Ripping the back end of the camper off, replacing all the rotten wood, adding new insulation, and revamping... ]]> Tue, 20 Dec 2011 04:27:00 -0500 12430 2011-12-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-4929-1324355234.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-4838-1324355234.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12428-no-bolts-no-holds-new-project-ferran-guerrero-hervas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12428-no-bolts-no-holds-new-project-ferran-guerrero-hervas As has become common, traditional climbing, doses, and do homework while I have pending, among other things, teach the way of the Clean Met, which is gradually engaging, if we return to the Peak must practice and better than our earth, rock uncertain, pending other duties, clean finish line bolts not as welldefined No Holds Dominic, there is little dams, the feeling is the solution ... ]]> Mon, 19 Dec 2011 17:08:00 -0500 12428 2011-12-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12428_013-1324398946.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12426-100-boulder-pol-palau http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12426-100-boulder-pol-palau This bridge last December I Albarracin, I've been climbing for 4days straight, until he had to climb over.Testing many blocks, with some outstanding and leaving many more to come back and do it.I was there with my cousin Amos, James, Marc, Yoli, Doménec,Iratí, Eki, Banda, Pablito, Luisito ... .. and many more people with whom I spent a few days too handsome to repeat! ]]> Sun, 18 Dec 2011 16:59:00 -0500 12426 2011-12-18 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_388899-2738093218972-1456643750-2867539-1617353083-n-1324227566.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_392079-2738119739635-1456643750-2867563-1197237613-n-1324227566.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_albarracin-8-11-11-2011-114-1324227567.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_albarracin-8-11-11-2011-133-1324227568.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_albarracin-8-11-11-2011-131-1324227569.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_albarracin-8-11-11-2011-132-1324227570.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12425-learning-to-fly-jason-kruk http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12425-learning-to-fly-jason-kruk Greetings from Argentina! Hayden and I were totally elated upon reaching the top of the uber-classic Exocet on Cerro Standhardt in Argentine Patagonia. Now all we have to do is get down, I thought to myself. Rappelling in the mountains is one of my least favourite activities. It´s time consuming, and often dangerous. That´s why I´ve been learning to fly... ]]> Sat, 17 Dec 2011 00:51:00 -0500 12425 2011-12-17 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_standhart-summit-1324083108.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_cavecrotch-1324083108.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_gopr6059-1324083109.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12416-ptolmey-the-dog-visits-peterskill-patrick-krieger http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12416-ptolmey-the-dog-visits-peterskill-patrick-krieger Hueco is coming up quickly!As unseasonable as the weather has been lately, it quickly has switched into send temperatures as frost and freeze/thaw both become the dominating elements.  Snagging a sunny but chilled day last week I took a day trip up to the Gunks once again, just after my friend Rocco sent his nemesis climb Vortex Yoga; a steep crimpy line with tension dependant positions. ]]> Thu, 15 Dec 2011 02:53:00 -0500 12416 2011-12-15 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0053-1323917581.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-9195-1323917582.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-9201-1323917582.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-9291-1323917582.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-9414-1323917582.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-9436-1323917582.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12415-portland-boulder-rally-alex-fritz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12415-portland-boulder-rally-alex-fritz Two weekends ago I headed down to the first annual Portland Boulder Rally. This would be my third Open competition in the last two months. I previously competed in the Northwest Boulderfest at the Seattle Bouldering Project, the Seattle Bouldering Challenge at Stone Gardens, and this time the PBR at the NE Circuit Bouldering Gym. At the first two competitions I made it into Finals, so this was pretty much my goal for this comp. too. The PNW has really strong boulderers so sometimes it's really hard just to make it into the top 10 for finals. Unfortunately, the... ]]> Thu, 15 Dec 2011 01:38:00 -0500 12415 2011-12-15 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12415_pbrboyko-1324054318.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12415_pbrcarlo-1324054318.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12415_pbrnathaniel-1324054318.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12415_pbrzak-1324054318.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12413-sonnie-trotter-ascends-ambrosia-v12 http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12413-sonnie-trotter-ascends-ambrosia-v12 Yesterday, Sonnie Trotter made a rare (5th) ascent of Ambrosia V12?  Being the second climber to do it since a major foothold broke,  the first being Enzo Oddo, who claimed the 4th ascent at the tender age of 15 just last year.  The 40 foot super highball was first established by Five Ten athlete Kevin Jorgeson and climbs directly up the south face of the Grandpa peabody boulder.  Here's what Sonnie said in an email today.... ]]> Wed, 14 Dec 2011 17:41:48 -0500 12413 2011-12-14 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12413_image0031_1323885321.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12413_image0041_1323885321.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12413_image0051_1323885321.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12413_image006_1323885321.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12412-wiz-fineron-petzl-roc-trip-and-five-ten-stowaway-tour http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12412-wiz-fineron-petzl-roc-trip-and-five-ten-stowaway-tour This two week climbing trip to the Getu Valley in china was a great experience and a huge eye opener for me. The trip started with a crazy bus ride down a small windy road through a very poor but beautiful part of china. Driving in to the village i was in awe of how much rock i could see on ether side of the road, i just couldn't wait to wake up the next morning and go climbing. ]]> Wed, 14 Dec 2011 17:00:54 -0500 12412 2011-12-14 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12412_PA291159_1323883388.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12412_PA281026_1323883389.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12411-le-blond-la-brute-et-le-manouche-8c-and-video http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12411-le-blond-la-brute-et-le-manouche-8c-and-video France, Italy, France, Italy, Greece, Italy, France, Austria, France, Italy, Austria, England, Austria, Italy, Switzerland, France, Spain, Mexico, France - My last two months... This time of year is always hectic, it seems like the majority of my work and non climbing commitments all come at the same time, which is a good thing as it leaves a lot of the year free, but can sometimes be frustrating when climbing has to be put on the back burner, and you feel yourself growing fat from all the eating out and sitting on your ass in the car/plane.... ]]> Tue, 13 Dec 2011 14:52:00 -0500 12411 2011-12-13 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12411_vlcsnap2011120115h27m08s245_1323880173.jpg