http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12597-first-post-and-climbing-at-socorro-kinchen-packer http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12597-first-post-and-climbing-at-socorro-kinchen-packer Hi I am Kinchen Packer, I’m 17 and I’m from Albuquerque New Mexico. This is my first post so I hope it’s not too bad.Yesterday, my friend Liam and I went out to Socorro to climb outside on a rope for the first time since early November. We started kind of late so it wasn’t till 11:30 that we started climbing. We started on Bats Out of Hell, a really fun and burly 11d. After a long snack brake we moved on to a 13a called The Demon. The Demon was the first 13 I ever tried... ]]> Tue, 07 Feb 2012 05:30:00 -0500 12597 2012-02-07 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0057-1328592655.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12595-memory-is-parallax-dave-graham http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12595-memory-is-parallax-dave-graham Well after one month in the South East, I was overtaken by humidity, perpetual downpours, and a general lack of a muerteness. I made a clutch decision, bought a plane ticket, gathered my gear and flew back to Colorado with the fire. As I was feeling defeated by weather, typically leaving me with a mixed sensation of insignificance and a temporal sensation about life on planet Earth, I gathered my shit, installed myself in Nederland (far up canyon from the loathsome b-town) and prepared for a second onslaught of the Estes Park bouldering zone I was climbing at before... ]]> Mon, 06 Feb 2012 22:53:28 -0500 12595 2012-02-06 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12595_orshow-26-1328569586.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12595_orshow-23-1328569587.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12595_orshow-29-1328569589.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12595_orshow-30-1328569590.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12594-impromptu-roadtrip-mayan-smith-gobat http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12594-impromptu-roadtrip-mayan-smith-gobat Every time you kind of feel you have it sorted, life seems to have a crazy way of throwing something new into the mix - This is not necessarily a bad thing. However it tends to confuse matters at times and is making it hard for me to make decisions. My life just seems to be a whirlwind of experiences and too many great opportunities keep coming up... I feel very privileged to be in this position, yet at times I feel like I am having a hard time keeping up with my life. ]]> Mon, 06 Feb 2012 07:45:00 -0500 12594 2012-02-06 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_photo-1328514311.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1548-1328514311.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1545-1328514311.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12593-itatim-brazil-escaladaint http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12593-itatim-brazil-escaladaint The city of Itatim is in the countryside of Bahia state, 200 km from its capital, Salvador - northeastern Brazil.Unlike other places in Brazil, where sport climbing has been around for many years, in Itatim this high performance sport is new, and is evolving in a remarkable way, as new climbing areas are discovered and new routes are opened every weekend. In the beginning there were only a few short and long routes (most of these with no repetition), but now this is changing. ]]> Mon, 06 Feb 2012 01:58:00 -0500 12593 2012-02-06 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_e-photo-caui-vieira-1328493525.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12592-west-coastin-in-san-francisco-sasha-digiulian http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12592-west-coastin-in-san-francisco-sasha-digiulian This past week I have sampled some of America’s western sport climbing destinations including the VRG, Cathedral, and Moe’s Valley in Southern Utah, and also Jailhouse in the California Bay Area. I have not been at any of the areas for more than 2 days but I have really enjoyed experiencing the different crags and I know that I will certainly be returning as soon as I can. While I was at the VRG in Southern Utah I was filming with Keith Ladzinski and Andy Mann. Three Strings Media is putting together a Five Ten clip from the trip,... ]]> Sat, 04 Feb 2012 06:26:00 -0500 12592 2012-02-04 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_395272-10150658698020555-603835554-11295726-1210357276-n-1328336818.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0288-1328336818.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12586-penoles-2011-2012-the-aztec-hermit-climber-diego-lopez-montull http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12586-penoles-2011-2012-the-aztec-hermit-climber-diego-lopez-montull Three months ago i was in Mexico City, where I stayed for 2 months developing two new areas of Boulder and a new sector of sport routes. ]]> Thu, 02 Feb 2012 20:54:00 -0500 12586 2012-02-02 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_5.10penolesluzxida-1328216049.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_elintentoProject5.10-1328216049.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_v10AztecaRojo5.10-1328216050.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_V15ensueñoazteca5.10blog-1328216051.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_V15projectpalabrasbariante5.10-1328216051.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_v15proyectoensuenoaztecablogfiveten-1328216052.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_blogpuertaparadotfiveten-1328216052.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12583-summing-up-my-america-trip-peter-whittaker http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12583-summing-up-my-america-trip-peter-whittaker My America trip which i came back from in the middle of November last year, was probably my best, most fun and exciting climbing trip i've ever been on, here is a brief report summing up the places I visited and offwidths that I climbed. ]]> Thu, 02 Feb 2012 18:28:00 -0500 12583 2012-02-02 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12583_moab-century-080-1328297478.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12583_moab-century-023-1328297479.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12583_moab-century-028-1328297480.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12583_moab-century-081-1328297481.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12583_pete-edit1-1328297482.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12583_salt-lake-003-1328297483.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12581-our-can-sauce-december-in-the-ozarks-brian-bittner http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12581-our-can-sauce-december-in-the-ozarks-brian-bittner About two months ago I went on a bouldering trip with Jake List and Aaron Nietzel to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, in Jasper, Arkansas. Jake and I had both been there a couple years previous. We had had an excellent time and were looking forward to going back. Leading up to our trip we had some superb climbing weather in New England. Not only were we blessed with this great weather, but we were also all pysched. We all managed to climb Spectacle Illusion (V11) in Groton, NH and I climbed two V12's (a grade I hadn't done before this... ]]> Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:59:00 -0500 12581 2012-02-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_imag0758-1328122764.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_imag0762-1328122765.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_imag0808-1328122766.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12580-reflection-on-cold-winter-days-jess-taverna http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12580-reflection-on-cold-winter-days-jess-taverna Let’s face it: this has not been a typical Wasatch winter. This morning’s avalanche report suggests that things might stay atypically lame--a strong persistent weak layer in the snow pack may never fully heal and, after a brief front brings a meager few inches of snow tonight, high pressure is forecast to resume and stick around for at least another weak. As a rock climber, I should probably be psyched--as long as things dry out, climbing in the local canyons above the inevitable inversion or heading south to abundant desert rock are both great options. ]]> Wed, 01 Feb 2012 15:10:00 -0500 12580 2012-02-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_ames-ice-hose-1328109057.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_ames-ice-hose-p1-1328109057.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12579-colorado-climbing-2012-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12579-colorado-climbing-2012-jon-cardwell Its been a while since I've fully committed to competing. There's been competitions here and there, so I was always still involved to a certain extent. The time off was mostly due to my overwhelming psyche on traveling and climbing in every place I could reach. I've spent years exploring distant places in Europe, Asia, South America and even here at home in the sates. Those times were great and they built up my character to what it is today. However, I still never forget the times I spent as a youth traveling around for competitions. At... ]]> Wed, 01 Feb 2012 14:16:00 -0500 12579 2012-02-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_memory1-1328105790.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_2006-abs-national-2-1328105790.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_2006-abs-national-1328105790.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12578-first-ascents-for-the-new-year-jessa-goebel http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12578-first-ascents-for-the-new-year-jessa-goebel Over the last few months the bouldering at the New has caught my interest. When it has been a little too cold for rope climbing my climbing partner and I have been busy cleaning and climbing some boulders. Here is a short video:   ]]> Wed, 01 Feb 2012 02:43:00 -0500 12578 2012-02-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12578_jessa-1-1328115558.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12577-quick-on-the-draw-michaela-kiersch http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12577-quick-on-the-draw-michaela-kiersch This weekend was the annual Quick on the Draw competition at Adventure Rock in Pewaukee, Wisconsin. I was really psyched to go to this competition because it is always fun, exciting, and full of great people! Every year Adventure Rock staff thinks of a crazy theme for Quick on the Draw. This year, the walls were littered with intricate tape robot designs to signal the start of each route. This comp is unique in that each boulder problem or route you do counts towards your score, so you have to get a ton of climbing in... ]]> Wed, 01 Feb 2012 01:51:00 -0500 12577 2012-02-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_400534-2837481169749-1040831577-32827813-421291877-n-1328061083.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_403067-3161363516376-1333970166-3193882-1331009228-n-1328061084.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_404472-2837480529733-1040831577-32827812-1940202722-n-1328061084.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12574-training-blog-2-motivation-angela-payne http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12574-training-blog-2-motivation-angela-payne It’s been a tough week for training. My motivation has been all over the place for the past 10 days, and I can’t exactly figure out why. But, this is all part of the process and the experience, so I will share it.Now that I have more time to focus on my climbing, I find myself feeling the need and desire to impose more structure on my training. I operate very well with structure, but now as I try to structure something that used to be somewhat of an escape from the ordered aspects of my... ]]> Tue, 31 Jan 2012 07:52:00 -0500 12574 2012-01-31 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_imag2130-1-1327996331.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_imag2160-1327996332.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12572-first-tour-de-bloc-win-of-the-season-eric-sethna http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12572-first-tour-de-bloc-win-of-the-season-eric-sethna The Canadian open bouldering series, The Tour de Bloc, is now in full swing! There was just a competition at Climbers Rock in Burlington, Ontario. In late December I competed at the second competition of the season at a newly opened gym called Grand River Rocks (GRR) in Waterloo. I am super excited to have this gym built here as I’m currently going to school at the University of Waterloo. GRR is going to be my training gym during school terms. I was actually quite impressed with the gyms structure. Rock Works did a nice job in building a... ]]> Mon, 30 Jan 2012 22:39:00 -0500 12572 2012-01-30 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_pic01-1327963176.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12568-hueco-tanks-trip-joseph-gifford http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12568-hueco-tanks-trip-joseph-gifford Last winter break me and my climbing team took a trip to Hueco Tanks for a little more than week. The first day at Hueco was a successful day. I got a send on “Mojo” and did a repeat on “Ten ten”, this was all on East mountain. We traveled to East probley the most because so many of us on the team had projects out there. But my best day at Hueco was defiantly the last day on West mountain, I felt super good and was sending hard climbs really quickly, on one of my attempts I almost... ]]> Mon, 30 Jan 2012 02:31:00 -0500 12568 2012-01-30 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_gopr0245-1-1327890714.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12566-winter-burn-francesca-metcalf http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12566-winter-burn-francesca-metcalf I spent last weekend in Philadelphia competing at the Winter Burn, one of the many competitions annually held at the Philly Rock Gyms. My whole family met me in Philly, as well as a huge chunk of the Metro Rock crew, including Dave Wetmore and Josh Larson. To my surprise, I woke up Saturday morning to see my first snowfall of the year, but even with the bad weather and icy roads, the comp had a great turn out. The red point in the afternoon was packed to the brim, but fortunately, there were tons of places to climb... ]]> Mon, 30 Jan 2012 00:48:00 -0500 12566 2012-01-30 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_409132-10150504839008546-704293545-8750781-705557714-n-1327884517.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_394274-10150504837863546-704293545-8750776-2121565146-n-1327884517.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_397308-10150496673876766-646371765-9217781-1533859743-n-1327884517.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12565-my-next-step-sasha-digiulian http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12565-my-next-step-sasha-digiulian January 2012 marks the start of a New Year, and with this New Year have come new changes. For me, one of the biggest changes has been this new relationship with Five Ten. For the past 8 years I worked with MadRock as an athlete ambassador. I had a fabulous relationship with the people there, but I came to the decision that in order to pursue my career, I had to find a shoe more compatible for my personal preferences. I found this shoe with Five Ten and I am very enthusiastic about this momentous change. I had a... ]]> Sun, 29 Jan 2012 19:00:00 -0500 12565 2012-01-29 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12565_sasha-1327953690.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12564-skiing-the-perfect-cross-training-jen-vennon http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12564-skiing-the-perfect-cross-training-jen-vennon Perhaps skiing is the perfect cross training to get my legs stronger and ultimately make me a better climber. But if not, at least skiing is a whole lot of fun! ]]> Sun, 29 Jan 2012 18:11:00 -0500 12564 2012-01-29 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_self-portrait-1327860703.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_snowmass-1327860704.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_skiing-1327860704.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12563-the-flash-pump-benjamin-spannuth http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12563-the-flash-pump-benjamin-spannuth My favorite “course” when I was at CU was the physiology colloquium.  It wasn’t a typical class in that it only occurred once a week and wasn’t just for the students but also to keep the faculty up to date on the latest and greatest research going on.  Every week a different CU faculty member brought in a presenter from around the world that does similar work to give a short talk on their research.  The topics varied greatly across the semester spanning topics like biomechanics, exercise physiology, sleep, immunology, and stress physiology. ]]> Sun, 29 Jan 2012 05:10:00 -0500 12563 2012-01-29 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12563_50-words-1328026719.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12560-two-days-bouldering-in-bishop-ca-urs-moosmuller http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12560-two-days-bouldering-in-bishop-ca-urs-moosmuller On the last two days of my vacation from school I headed down with a few of my friends to the world class destination of Bishop, CA. We spent the first day at the Happy Boulders focusing on getting as many problems in as possible and enjoying the warm 60 degree weather. The second day we headed to the Buttermilks and focused on some of the classic mind control high balls. I had previously been to bishop several times, but we climbed mostly in Owens River Gorge with my family so it was really cool checking the bouldering out... ]]> Fri, 27 Jan 2012 17:39:00 -0500 12560 2012-01-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0007-1327685992.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0013-1327685993.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0036-1327685994.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0093-1327685995.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0163-1327685996.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0187-1327685997.jpg