http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12654-the-latest-carlo-traversi http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12654-the-latest-carlo-traversi It's been a busy last few weeks and when I say busy, I mean LOTS OF CLIMBING!  All types, actually.  A few weeks ago, I had the urge to head out Trad climbing and found myself dicing out a send on the Evictor (5.12d) in Eldorado Canyon.  Photographer Greg Mionske captured some decent footage of the send: ]]> Tue, 21 Feb 2012 01:45:00 -0500 12654 2012-02-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_gsm3733-1329788738.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bagley_darkhorse_2.4-7-1329788738.jpeg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12653-projects-and-heartaches-alex-johnson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12653-projects-and-heartaches-alex-johnson I'd never climbed in Red Rocks before, so I didn't really know what to expect. My first day in town I was solo and guideless out at the boulders, and it was an interesting experience. I don't often climb alone; I gain a lot of motivation from the motivation of others and usually find it hard to get psyched by myself. Plus it's always nice to be spotted. But this time was different, it was strangely rejuvenating. I've found myself climbing solely for the pureness of climbing this fall/winter, and it was heightened even more going out alone. Like... ]]> Mon, 20 Feb 2012 22:08:00 -0500 12653 2012-02-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0216-2-half-1329775695.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12649-the-first-boulder-open-onix-2012-mexico-city-diego-lopez-montull http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12649-the-first-boulder-open-onix-2012-mexico-city-diego-lopez-montull The past, Saturday 18 February, took place the first boulder open  2012  Mexico, this was in the climbing Gym, Onix in Mexico City and Five Ten was there.This competition was sponsored by Five Ten, which continues to support in Mexico.The event was very nice, 170 people attended and 60 competitors. The comp of 7 boulders to classify finals, then the finals consisted in 4 boulder problems.People came from many parts of the Mexican republic. the atmosphere was very good and the climbing level of Mexico continues growing and every time are more people climbing. ]]> Mon, 20 Feb 2012 04:26:00 -0500 12649 2012-02-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_fivetenmexico1-1329712018.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_fivetenmexico2-1329712018.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_fiveten-mexico3-1329712018.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_fivetenmex4-1329712018.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_fivetenmex5-1329712018.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_427268-439510159959-135039624959-1586487-522683941-n1-1329712019.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12648-la-living-cerre-francis http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12648-la-living-cerre-francis In October I picked up life as I knew it for the last decade and left Salt Lake City for Southern California. Venice Beach to be exact. While I was excited for the change, I was scared of leaving the great climbing community and rock Utah offers. Within two days of my arrival I found myself at the closest climbing gym. Funny how we change our lives, but still migrate to our comfort zone. Lucky for me I ran into Isaac Palatt who I had met years back while competing. He offered a tour of Black Mountain the following... ]]> Mon, 20 Feb 2012 01:28:00 -0500 12648 2012-02-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_black-mountain-1329701281.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_beach-1329701281.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_hip-surgery-boo-1329701281.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_santa-barbara-1329701281.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_j.tree-1329701281.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_my-new-backyard-1329701282.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12646-freezy-font-michiel-nieuwenhuijsen http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12646-freezy-font-michiel-nieuwenhuijsen Arctic temperatures in northwest Europe, most of the Dutch had ice skating favor but I had only one destination in mind...Font! My last visit to Font was more than a year ago so and that was too long go for me so we went for the weekend (3 day weekend). With temperatures between -5C and -12C I knew that it was going to be cold, but the friction was well worth the suffering. ]]> Sat, 18 Feb 2012 12:42:00 -0500 12646 2012-02-18 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_DSC07344.1five-1329568937.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12645-new-year-new-motivation-pol-palau http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12645-new-year-new-motivation-pol-palau Another year has begun with this new motivation, new projects, more eages to train, to compete to climb.....to do what I love most in this life, Climbing!I started climbing hard routes in the beginning of the year I went to climb in Oliana try had in mind where one is 8b+"China Crisis",no luck,I was unable to reach the meeting due to lack of resistance.I was also climbing in Targassonne where I became Compression 7c,Kabab traum 7b+,Philosophie du chaos 7b+.After the bloc was doing the Cogul area where I did a 7c+/8a which was downgraded to 7c,and another bloc of... ]]> Fri, 17 Feb 2012 23:48:00 -0500 12645 2012-02-17 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_-dsc7153-1329522493.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_-dsc7165-1329522494.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_-dsc7164-1329522495.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12644-mayan-smith-gobat-spain-bound http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12644-mayan-smith-gobat-spain-bound Desert, mountains, beautiful boulders, psyched friends and endless splitter days… What more could one ask for? This pretty much sums up my stay in Bishop! After barely bouldering at all for the last five years, over the last month in Bishop I really discovered the joys of bouldering. The simple pleasure of doing a short sequence of moves, being able to focus purely on individual movements. That said, I was most attracted to the big, bold and strikingly beautiful lines, which are relatively abundant and are what Bishop has become famous for. I loved the commitment... ]]> Fri, 17 Feb 2012 21:49:00 -0500 12644 2012-02-17 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_-mg-6875-1329515363.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_-mg-6961-1329515363.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_-mg-6922-1329515363.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_-mg-7032-1329515363.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12643-a-day-late-and-a-dollar-short-ryan-silven http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12643-a-day-late-and-a-dollar-short-ryan-silven For my first blog with Five Ten I thought I'd share a little bit of tragedy and triumph from the Fall and Winter. I once had a teacher in middle school tell me that I was "always a day late and a dollar short" and, while that certainly was true in middle school, I'd like to think I've moved past this moniker. I mean, sure, I'm usually a little late to work (not an entire day thankfully), and rarely do I remember to pay rent on the first of the month, and I'm always rushing from place... ]]> Fri, 17 Feb 2012 07:03:00 -0500 12643 2012-02-17 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_sunset1-1329462205.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bear-1329462205.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12638-winter-time-brian-dunnohew http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12638-winter-time-brian-dunnohew Winter is throwing me for a loop again this year! Usually I climb around Lander and the Flaming Gorge until the first week of Jan. I take a week long rest then began a 9 week training regimen. It usually works out great because the highway to the Flaming Gorge is closed for the most of Jan and Feb and the roads to Lander can be terrifying and should be closed more often. But, this year it has been unusually warm and we have been able to climb outside more often. So now I am climbing inside 3-4 days... ]]> Wed, 15 Feb 2012 16:35:00 -0500 12638 2012-02-15 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_paint1-1329323739.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_paint2-1329323739.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12637-time-off-tim-garland http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12637-time-off-tim-garland Taking time off from the sport you love can be difficult but can pay huge dividends in the long run if timed correctly. Not only is forced time off part of a healthy physical training cycle, but also a necessity in order to stay psyched and willing to push your body to the limits. It always amazes me how good my body feels after a recovery period. Finger tendons tighten up in a positive way, nagging minor soreness goes away, skin repairs, and the ever important mind recovers and is ready to begin the process all over again. I... ]]> Wed, 15 Feb 2012 04:29:00 -0500 12637 2012-02-15 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_smith-1329280147.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12633-a-piece-of-mind-sasha-digiulian http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12633-a-piece-of-mind-sasha-digiulian Last weekend I traveled to Seattle, WA to teach a PCI-operated clinic with Kevin Jorgeson and Steven Jeffery. I had never worked with PCI before so I did not know what to expect. I was impressed by their managerial and operating skills and I had a great time getting to know Kevin and Steven in the process. ]]> Tue, 14 Feb 2012 05:26:00 -0500 12633 2012-02-14 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0418-1329197180.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0372-1329197181.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0375-1329197182.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12632-a-work-in-progress-check-your-head-sam-hayden http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12632-a-work-in-progress-check-your-head-sam-hayden Went to P-Way today, 20 degrees, the friction was great, but I figured out later that my fingers had been numbed by the cold and I didn't feel the terrible burning pain in my fingers that I have now. My dad got me up at 7:00am...-10 at our house! We headed south hoping the temps would increase and thankfully they did. I worked a V9 there called Check Your Head and found it was definitely one of the more challenging problems at P-Way, I gave it 36 tries and after an hour and a half of... ]]> Tue, 14 Feb 2012 02:26:00 -0500 12632 2012-02-14 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_utah-1329186412.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12631-andrew-plagens-updates http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12631-andrew-plagens-updates The last few weeks have been pretty exciting. My two good friends from back home came to visit for a week and to climb some ice. They drove straight through from Michigan, leaving at 5pm and getting to Colorado at 9am the next morning. They were ready to climb despite their lack of sleep. We decided to wait one day to go hit the ice and went to Eldo. Eric and Joe had never climbed in Eldo, so I decided it necessary for us to climb the ultra classic Bastille Crack. It is a must for any visiting climber.... ]]> Tue, 14 Feb 2012 01:26:00 -0500 12631 2012-02-14 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_385036-2630800283966-1074129049-2696663-1207438318-n-1329182790.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_409040-2630799563948-1074129049-2696661-846479731-n-1329182790.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_382677-2630792963783-1074129049-2696631-294235773-n-1329182790.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_morgan-1329182790.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12629-blue-mountains-australia-wiz-fineron http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12629-blue-mountains-australia-wiz-fineron Six weeks in the Blue Mountains..... what a prospect! Where do i camp? what do i eat? what climbs do i try? What about the weather? I know..... Who cares, lets just get out there and do it! Everyone else's parents wanted them to stay home for Christmas back here in NZ so i booked my flight and began my journey alone 2 days later! I arrived and was handed some camping gear and got pointed in the direction of the aussie bush! I set up camp and got straight in to it the next day. ]]> Mon, 13 Feb 2012 21:19:19 -0500 12629 2012-02-13 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12629_img-0759-1329168476.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12629_wiz-1329168477.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12629_wiz-25-1329168478.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12629_wiz-32-1329168478.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12627-winter-teva-games-andres-marin http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12627-winter-teva-games-andres-marin I juts came back from my last competition of the winter. The First Winter Teva games where a total success. The mixed Climbing Competition was awesome a 55 feet tall structure that enterprise put together was super cool. The comp was base on speed and little bit on difficulty. Slalom style comp where 2 competitors climb side by side with a 3 minutes rest before climbing the other route made the comp a full speed event super fun to watch.It was a total of super strong 20 competitors and in order to qualified you have to win against the... ]]> Mon, 13 Feb 2012 20:09:00 -0500 12627 2012-02-13 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_securedownload-1329163799.jpeg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12626-bishop-giovanni-traversi http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12626-bishop-giovanni-traversi I just got back from Bishop. Overall i had a good trip. On the first day i warmed up, felt really good and was able to finish up Thunderbird V11, in less than 10 goes for the day. I got very close to sending it a couple trips ago, falling off matching the left hand crimp before the good holds that lead to the top. After i sent Thunderbird, the next day i went to the secrets of the beehive area to get on the Swarm. I once again was not able to make any progress on the swarm... ]]> Mon, 13 Feb 2012 19:44:00 -0500 12626 2012-02-13 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dscn1413-1329162292.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dscn1383-1329162293.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dscn1389-1329162294.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12625-headspace-mental-training-jess-taverna http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12625-headspace-mental-training-jess-taverna Although I haven’t been getting out as much as I did last year, I’m still having one of my best ice seasons yet. Nearly every day out has brought with it a new “hardest lead yet,” but most importantly, I’m pulling that off because my mental game is stronger than ever. In addition to enjoying this success on the ice, I’m really hopeful that this stronger mindset will come along for the ride when the ice melts and I get back on the rock full time. ]]> Mon, 13 Feb 2012 18:16:00 -0500 12625 2012-02-13 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_wild-iris-action-1329157014.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_cody-scenic-shot-1329157014.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12623-on-the-road-with-dean-potter http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12623-on-the-road-with-dean-potter Dean Potter, Five Ten™ Elite Athlete, is The Man Who Can Fly. For nearly a year, a film crew from the National Geographic Channel followed Dean from adventure to adventure; pioneering the first free solo on Yosemite’s El Capitan (Easy Rider), walking some of the most beautiful free solo highlines in the world, knocking off a first ascent (and first wing suit descent) of Mt. Bute in British Columbia, Canada, and setting a new world record for wingsuit BASE-jumping off the Eiger—soaring 3 minutes, 20 seconds for more than 5.5 miles over 9,200 vertical feet. All the while,... ]]> Mon, 13 Feb 2012 04:18:41 -0500 12623 2012-02-13 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12623_dean-closeup-1329107226.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12623_dean-potter-1329107226.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12621-castell-de-can-boix-new-boulder-area-ferran-guerrero-hervas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12621-castell-de-can-boix-new-boulder-area-ferran-guerrero-hervas About ten years ago with a few instructions via telephone we came to the small area of ??boulder Taradell (Castell de Can Boix), was the first time I visited Taradell and even then we decided to move here, few turns of fate, that day we made our first visit, Laia, Sergi and me, it was very cold, fog and humidity, the place attracted me greatly, we did four things that were open and we could see the enormous potential hiding after a few visits I have done if you have not been for one thing was on the other,... ]]> Sun, 12 Feb 2012 09:31:00 -0500 12621 2012-02-12 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12621_a51c672c92906d6ac52b185e-1329236997.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12621_9adc060503a8a3a17032b03c-1329236997.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12619-st-george-and-vegas-areas-ben-spannuth http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12619-st-george-and-vegas-areas-ben-spannuth The last couple weeks I've been bouncing around some St. George and Vegas areas with numerous climbing partners. I've never gone on a climbing trip alone before and usually have much more specific goals but I basically haven't had any idea where or with who I'd be climbing recently until the day before. It's turned out amazing since there are tons of people psyched on getting out and everyday my skin could handle it I've been at the VRG, Cathedral, Moe's, Krafts, Mt. Potosi, or Black Velvet. Part of the trip will be in a... ]]> Sat, 11 Feb 2012 07:21:00 -0500 12619 2012-02-11 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0177-1328944902.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0203-1328944902.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0538-1328944902.jpg