http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12803-working-projects-and-heading-to-colorado-sam-hayden http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12803-working-projects-and-heading-to-colorado-sam-hayden Typical mixed March weather in Vermont! 80 degrees last week and 20 degrees this week. The snow is melted off all of my projects and I've been making progress on a couple. A few new FA's last week at the DEKD boulders and one at a new area we discovered. We've been finding ton's of new boulders within a few miles of our house...all gneiss...solid well featured stone! I'm posting some pics of the new finds and a video of a couple FA's and some work on a project.On Tuesday we head out to... ]]> Sun, 01 Apr 2012 01:41:00 -0400 12803 2012-04-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_imgp3738-1333244480.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_wp-000524-1333244481.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12802-fluke-bike-accident-sierra-carroll http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12802-fluke-bike-accident-sierra-carroll Wow, it has been one crazy month. Starting out the month I was looking forward to a Spring Break full of climbing at Shelf Road outside canyon city and maybe a few days of skiing in the mix as well. I had spent the first weekend after the weekend of Youth Nationals climbing and hiking in Boulder, and had been able to do a great hike late one day after work near the beautiful flatirons and was very excited for the weekends to come. I had almost every weekend planned to go outside climbing in Boulder since the weather... ]]> Sat, 31 Mar 2012 17:00:00 -0400 12802 2012-03-31 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_hiking-before-acident-1333213254.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_acident-photos-1333213254.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12801-the-dagger-8bv14-and-climbing-in-font-niccolo-ceria http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12801-the-dagger-8bv14-and-climbing-in-font-niccolo-ceria Hi everybody!Long time has passed since the last blog spot has been written by me. I really want to say something concerning the first period of this 2012 season, especially about my trip to Fontainebleau in the first week of march. ]]> Sat, 31 Mar 2012 14:24:00 -0400 12801 2012-03-31 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_gourmandise-8b-1333203855.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_fata-morgana-8a-1333203855.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_imothep-8a-1333203855.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_imothep-8a-1333203856.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_la-coccinelle-8a-1333203857.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_la-gaule-7c-1333203857.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_the-dagger-3-copy-1333203858.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12800-adult-nationals-and-spring-break-delaney-miller http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12800-adult-nationals-and-spring-break-delaney-miller Not too long ago was Adult Nationals for Bouldering. It was so much fun and the problems were awesome! I placed fourteenth and have received an invite to Teva, so I'm super psyched. Last week was spring break and I went to the red. It was so much fun and the weather was great! I sent Flour Power, which was a 5.13b and found myself a new project at the lode- The Madness (5.13c). I also sent The Force at the Dark side; a 5.13a. I feel like a week there was definitely not enough. A month or two... ]]> Sat, 31 Mar 2012 01:55:00 -0400 12800 2012-03-31 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_for 5.10485388-396830833678570-100000549705142-1482574-482164896-n-1333158926.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12799-the-inside-scoop-riley-joyce http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12799-the-inside-scoop-riley-joyce As I look at a route I am about to try. I think that I can do this, and try to feel confident in myself. This usually includes me looking at every hold and physically moving my arms in the position I will grab the hold. Next I will try to find every taped hold I see to make sure I am not missing any moves. Next I will chalk up and say to myself that I can do this. Then finally hop on the route!There is always mistakes that can be made but after your first attempt it... ]]> Sat, 31 Mar 2012 01:05:00 -0400 12799 2012-03-31 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0381-1333155924.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12797-the-warrior-path-david-graham http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12797-the-warrior-path-david-graham The last months of my life have been consumed by climbing, exploring, brushing up new climbs, making music, driving, thinking, and healing a knee injury I gave myself while drop-kneeing down in Hueco Tanks back at the end of January. The last time I chimed in here in Five Ten, I tried to play it cool, writing about how fit I had felt before the Trade Show, my syke for all the classics in Hueco, and rambling about some other nonsense I have already forgotten. In reality, I was in full desperation mode, limping around, spending way too... ]]> Fri, 30 Mar 2012 20:57:00 -0400 12797 2012-03-30 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_black-vortex-project-1333141056.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_paint-it-black-8c-1333141057.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_hueco-1333141059.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bandersnatch-8b-1333141059.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bastard-in-a-basket-8b-1333141059.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nagual-8b-1333141059.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_chillin-with-the-benz-1333141060.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12795-into-the-mountains-chris-schulte http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12795-into-the-mountains-chris-schulte Durango was a blast as always, and it was hard to leave. We packed up around lunchtime and headed around the mountains for Telluride, the last stop on my part of the Ride, for a shoe demo at Telluride Gravity Works. This spot is a tiny little shop with a small wall and some exercise equipment right in the middle of downtown. It’s a good shop, one of those that carries good product, from climbing to snowboards to bikes- not packed with things, not a huge selection, but all the things you’d end up narrowing down to. A pretty... ]]> Fri, 30 Mar 2012 17:25:00 -0400 12795 2012-03-30 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_still-24-1333128337.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_still-25-1333128337.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_still-26-1333128337.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1483-1333128337.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12792-life-is-just-so-swede-sasha-digiulian http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12792-life-is-just-so-swede-sasha-digiulian This past week I traveled to Stockholm, Sweden for the Tierra Boulder Battle and to climb some Swedish Granite. I could not have anticipated how cool and friendly all the Swedish people are and how great of a time I had! I was staying with one of my best friends, Mathilda Soderlund, who I have known previously through competitions. She is a great competitor and climber, but she also knows how to have fun. It was easy to have a lot of fun because we have very similar interests and hobbies… shopping, baking, watching movies, painting our nails... ]]> Thu, 29 Mar 2012 17:31:00 -0400 12792 2012-03-29 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0962-1333042293.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0877-1333042294.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0964-1333042295.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_cover-usa-climbing-1333042296.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12790-the-rules-of-chaos-patrick-krieger http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12790-the-rules-of-chaos-patrick-krieger Bomb, bomber, bombing; I bombed off the lip of a tall boulder. With the depression of injury slowly starting to wane its way out of my life, I feel confident enough in my return to touching rocks to write about the hairy encounter I had with Jason Kehl's widowmaker, or, The Rules of Chaos. ]]> Thu, 29 Mar 2012 00:16:00 -0400 12790 2012-03-29 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1618-1332980169.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1766-1332980169.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1921-1332980170.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-2007-1332980170.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12788-climbings-newest-member-jen-vennon http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12788-climbings-newest-member-jen-vennon I would like to introduce the newest member of the climbing community, Brooklyn the wonder-pup! Andrew and I drove to Colorado Springs on Sunday to expand our little family. It’s only been a few days, but we are already in love with this little ball of feistiness.Today will be the first day we attempt to take out new friend climbing. I love when there are a few well-behaved dogs at the crag, but I get as annoyed as the next person when they are running on ropes, stirring up dust, and otherwise making a mess of things. Brooklyn is... ]]> Wed, 28 Mar 2012 16:53:00 -0400 12788 2012-03-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_brooklyn-pup-1332953596.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_brooklyn-pup-3-1332953596.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_brooklyn-pup-2-1332953596.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_brooklyn-pup-5-1332953596.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12785-spring-break-red-river-gorge-jessa-goebel http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12785-spring-break-red-river-gorge-jessa-goebel Pure endurance climbing and fitness is hard to come by in the New River. Usually routes consist of hard boulder problems between stances or rests, which makes it a little more difficult to built pure endurance. So, with the Red River Gorge being so close it has become customary to make the drive and spend a few weeks at the red. Normally, I come to the Red with the intentions to climb pitches and practice on- sighting, rarely do I spend time in the Red projecting. My time here has been spent just working on building climbing... ]]> Tue, 27 Mar 2012 18:13:00 -0400 12785 2012-03-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_photo-2-1332872017.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_redriver1-1332872017.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12784-the-old-stomping-grounds-chris-schulte http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12784-the-old-stomping-grounds-chris-schulte Our quick stop in Albuquerque done, we headed north through skinwalker country towards Durango, arriving late, sleeping on the floor, up early for coffee and cold sunshine. It’s a relief to be back in the cool weather and thinner air, a relief to be back in a place I lived for so long, the place I started climbing. ]]> Tue, 27 Mar 2012 17:17:00 -0400 12784 2012-03-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1471-1332868669.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1470-1332868669.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_still-20-1332868669.jpeg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12782-to-the-southwest-chris-schulte http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12782-to-the-southwest-chris-schulte Noon-ish, and we’ve made it to New Mexico. After a week and a half of barbeque and mexican food, we’re switching it up to... new mexican food... for a meal anyways. Days of rich and fatty food have kinda started to wear on me a bit, and I’m looking forward to getting to Durango for a few days of clean food and bouldering in the crisp and dry. We’ve had a lot of heavy food and heavy weather, and I’m anxious to dry out a little bit, to get rid of this heavy feeling. Don’t misunderstand me, thinking I’m... ]]> Mon, 26 Mar 2012 14:12:00 -0400 12782 2012-03-26 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1469-1332771146.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1470-1332771146.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1352-1332771146.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12777-vertical-endeavors-no-holds-barred-2012-greg-padovani http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12777-vertical-endeavors-no-holds-barred-2012-greg-padovani Vertical Endeavors, a Midwest based company has a few gyms in Minnesota and one gym, Warrenville in Chicagoland. For 11 years VE Warrenville has hosted a comp, The No Holds Barred. I have competed in all eleven years except for one year when I had an injury. VE has always put on an impressive competition with a mixed style of scoring. Due to the fact that the gym is mostly designed for rope climbing, the majority of the comp was based around routes. Qualifier rounds are redpoint based with the majority of points coming from rope climbs, but traditionally... ]]> Sat, 24 Mar 2012 05:09:00 -0400 12777 2012-03-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nhb-2012-balls-clip-2-1332565769.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nhb-2012-headwall-1332565770.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nhb-2012-balls-clip-1332565770.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nhb-2012-balls-photo-1332565770.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12776-climb-so-ill-jamie-emerson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12776-climb-so-ill-jamie-emerson Five Ten athlete Jon Cardwell and I made a quick trip to an amazing new facility in St. Louis, Missouri a few weeks ago. I had received a phone call from a friend of mine, David Chancellor, about coming out and helping get Climb So Ill up and running. Setting jobs like this are always enjoyable because I get to share and teach my skill to a younger generation of climbers. Jon is one of the best setters in the country in my opinion, and it is always a pleasure to work with someone who shares the same... ]]> Fri, 23 Mar 2012 22:09:00 -0400 12776 2012-03-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0798-1332540561.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0805-1332540562.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0814-1332540563.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12775-abs-nationals-adventures-francesca-metcalf http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12775-abs-nationals-adventures-francesca-metcalf ABS Nationals this year were a bit more hectic than I am used to. It was a great and fun competition as always, but things just didn’t go as well for me as I would have liked. It started out Thursday night. I had a big biology test that I could not miss that ended at seven, so I booked a flight to Denver that left at nine. With that short of a time to catch my plane, even if things went smoothly, it was going to be close. The test took the full hour, and we started late,... ]]> Fri, 23 Mar 2012 15:53:00 -0400 12775 2012-03-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_100-1476-2-1332518022.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12774-stomping-sending-stigmas-colette-mcinerney http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12774-stomping-sending-stigmas-colette-mcinerney Sadly our trip is coming to an end, but I’m happy to say I reached a few of my goals along the way; such as trying more 13b’s, doing them more quickly, and getting on harder routes, even if I thought I couldn’t do them in the time given. I tried way more 13c’s than I ever have on this trip, and I even ended up sending one of them (my second ever!). I also tried my very first 13d, which was exciting and a personal achievement in and of itself. In the end my greater climbing ambitions feel... ]]> Fri, 23 Mar 2012 09:57:00 -0400 12774 2012-03-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-6567-1332496641.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0316-2-1332496640.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-6339-1332496640.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0409-1332496640.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-4013-1332496641.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-6166-1332496641.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-6577-1332496641.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12769-spain-a-pending-route-sasha-digiulian http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12769-spain-a-pending-route-sasha-digiulian This past week I have been climbing in Margalef, Spain, and filming with Big Up Productions (Reel Rock Tour) and 3Strings Media (Adidas Feature Video). Within the Cataluna Region of Spain there is a plethora of world-class routes to try. Chris Sharma established a beautiful route called Era Bella, 9a, in Margalef, which he suggested that I go and try. With this encouragement, I departed from my brief stay in Oliana to check this test-piece out. Upon arriving at the route, I knew that it was something special. The route seamlessly follows a 140-foot orange and blue streaked prow.... ]]> Wed, 21 Mar 2012 23:12:00 -0400 12769 2012-03-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-2716-1332371571.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_oliana-blog-1332371571.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-2876-1332371571.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12768-harder-than-the-bread-on-a-bocadillo-ben-spannuth http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12768-harder-than-the-bread-on-a-bocadillo-ben-spannuth For the last few years, since seeing photos of Humildes pa Casa and a clip of Chris on Pachamama, Oliana has been at the top of my climbing areas to visit.  With long, distinct lines and amazing movement it’d be hard to find a route on the wall that isn’t worth traveling the world to climb. ]]> Wed, 21 Mar 2012 23:08:00 -0400 12768 2012-03-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_margalef-3-14-2012-256-1332371324.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_kl2-6566-1332371324.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_kl2-5676-1332371325.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12766-spring-in-spain-mayan-smith-gobat http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12766-spring-in-spain-mayan-smith-gobat A month in Spain really is not enough! I feel like I am just learning to sport climb again and it almost time to leave... I am becoming totally that we really need to two days for every one. There are simply too many routes to climb, too many places to visit, too many experiences not to be missed, and simply too much psych to be contained in one lifetime! ]]> Wed, 21 Mar 2012 16:43:00 -0400 12766 2012-03-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0052-1332348201.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1600-1332348201.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1627-1332348201.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1596-1332348201.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1630-1332348201.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1610-1332348201.jpg