http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14043-getting-gnarly-mayan-smith-gobat http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14043-getting-gnarly-mayan-smith-gobat Like I mentioned… My focus over the last few months has been on training. My goal for this winter was to learn how to train. I felt that this would make the biggest difference to my climbing, because power is my greatest weakness and I have never really dedicated any time to training… Thanks to my amazing friend and climbing/training partner, Ben Rueck who welcomed me into his world, I have had the chance to get to know and train with Rob Pizem and the crew at Grand Junction Climbing Center. This time spent here in Grand... ]]> Thu, 25 Apr 2013 17:59:00 -0400 14043 2013-04-25 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/14043_img-2097-1367249973.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/14043_893487-10151369885293341-1690676910-o-1367249974.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/14043_photo-3-1367249974.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/14043_gnarly-logo-copy-1367249974.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14041-oetztal-sessions-emanuel-moosburger http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14041-oetztal-sessions-emanuel-moosburger In the past view weeks spring has finally arrived here in Austria, the cold and snow has vanished of our valley grounds, uncovering the near by blocs in the Ötztal from their hibernation... I personally love winter for all it's beauty and pleasures it offers here in the center of the Alps, hiking up the mountains and ride powder really can catch up with climbing that's for sure! But at the same time I can't wait to escape the crowded and dusty gyms and go climb for real again as soon as the local crags are on. ... ]]> Wed, 24 Apr 2013 09:39:00 -0400 14041 2013-04-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_flomurnig-tumpen-the-drunken-master-8a-1366796344.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_flomurnig-tumpen-9138-1366796344.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_robin-hood-8a-fa-screenshot-1366796344.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14039-spokane-first-ascents-alex-fritz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14039-spokane-first-ascents-alex-fritz My mom and I headed out to Spokane for a weekend trip of climbing with some of our good local friends from the area! Ever since I was little I always wanted to climb outside in the Spokane area and last November I finally got my first taste of the cool basalt and gritty granite in the area, so I was pretty psyched to be heading back over there for more.Saturday was spent on Deep Creek's funky basalt edges, starting out at the Main Wall and eventually hitting up The Pit on the way out. My initial goal for... ]]> Wed, 24 Apr 2013 05:33:00 -0400 14039 2013-04-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_leftraverse-1366781607.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_deadline1-1366781607.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_deadline5-1366781607.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_deadline9-1366781608.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14036-road-trip-post-1-red-river-gorge-vikki-weldon http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14036-road-trip-post-1-red-river-gorge-vikki-weldon The Red River Gorge! Ah, those words are music to my ears! Ever since I visited the area 3 years ago, I have yearned to come back. Yet unfortunately, the prime seasons for climbing (spring & fall) seem to also be the prime seasons for learning. So I put in my time, and I have emerged as a Registered Nurse! Yahoo! So did I jump straight into a full time job? Heck no. I have my whole life to work! Instead, my boyfriend Tom and I packed up our lives into a tiny storage locker, and said goodbye to... ]]> Mon, 22 Apr 2013 19:54:00 -0400 14036 2013-04-22 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_drseus-vw033-1366660457.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20130411-dsc-0027-1366660457.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20130411-dsc-0042-1366660457.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14033-eastern-regional-championship-at-true-north-climbing-hans-christian-montenegro http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14033-eastern-regional-championship-at-true-north-climbing-hans-christian-montenegro This is my last competition for this season. I did five competitions in the last five months. The regional Championship was in Toronto. There were 69 climbers in the open category. This time the out-of-town climbers came from Montreal, Ottawa, Kingston and the U.S. I met Dylan Barks, a good climber from the U.S.The competition had 60 problems in the qualifying round. The qualifying round was easy and many climbers did well. So, the places for finals were determined by the flash try. I flashed four problems and I worked the other two problems. After two hours of climbing,... ]]> Sat, 20 Apr 2013 14:12:00 -0400 14033 2013-04-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bonuel-20130323-406largeregionale-2013-problem4-1366467179.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_tour-de-bloc-bojan-uzicanin-14-1366467179.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14032-the-power-of-two-day-3-benjamin-rueck http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14032-the-power-of-two-day-3-benjamin-rueck Oh my god… today is the day of towers… I can barely move… do my fingers even work? Can I even get out of bed?… What time is it… *alarm* … damn… you have to be kidding… Nestled in the quiet valley of Grand Junction’s National Monument are towers and spires all waiting for adventurous folk to come explore/ quest up their sandy (yet exciting) pitches to enjoy the satisfaction of sitting on top and seeing the world from a very different perspective. Though I have lived here all of my life and have been... ]]> Fri, 19 Apr 2013 05:32:00 -0400 14032 2013-04-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/14032_416-1366648451.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/14032_414-1366648452.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/14032_407-1366648453.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/14032_417-1366648453.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14030-spring-break-at-the-red-zoe-steinberg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14030-spring-break-at-the-red-zoe-steinberg Well, my spring break came and went just like any other year, and I’d have to say it was definitely one of the better ones. After three days of playing extreme catch-up at school because of nationals, I was so psyched for a solid ten days of climbing at one of my favorite places in the world: the Red River Gorge. Given that bouldering season had just ended for me, the red was pretty much the perfect place to go to get myself motivated, as well as somewhat in shape for the next few months of sport... ]]> Fri, 19 Apr 2013 01:25:00 -0400 14030 2013-04-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_climbing-52-rrg-2013-1366334745.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_climbing-53-rrg-2013-1366334745.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14027-spring-in-soco-ryansilven http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14027-spring-in-soco-ryansilven New season same location. Newlin. It's ridiculous what I'll do for good rock. The last three weekends I've been making the weekly commute to the Wet Wet Mountains from Boulder to climb on that buttery gneiss. It's just that good. Besides the rock the ambience is unbeatable. Smells of rich mahogany and leather-bound books. Newlin still has a few things left to be done in its many nooks and crannies. One such nook yielded the new classic, "The Passion," named in honor of Easter (and Cameron and my sins). Check it out in the latest episode of Max's "The... ]]> Wed, 17 Apr 2013 00:08:00 -0400 14027 2013-04-17 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_walksoftlysit-1366157320.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_thepassionisland-1366157320.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14026-capital-city-cruxin-nicholas-milburn http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14026-capital-city-cruxin-nicholas-milburn Bouldering comp in Austin? That can't be all that cool. WRONG! It is awesome. Austin Rock Gym held their first ever Capital City Crux comp and I say it was a success. ARG did some amazing and much needed remodeling to the gym to prepare for this thing. Before it was an old manky floor and unused wall space. Not anymore. They tore out the big island which opened everything up and gave an entire new feeling to the gym. Even though the walls were the same they felt much better. They also replaced the floor with some big... ]]> Tue, 16 Apr 2013 02:14:00 -0400 14026 2013-04-16 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_901370-10152754598185068-634049309-o-1366078483.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_arg-12-of-13-1366078483.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_529290-4622729017613-169713681-n-1366078483.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_arg-10-of-13-1366078484.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_arg-3-of-13-1366078484.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_arg-2-of-13-1366078484.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_arg-7-of-13-1366078484.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14023-some-competitions-before-the-spring-sun-martina-cufar http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14023-some-competitions-before-the-spring-sun-martina-cufar The spring is here!!! It's even too hot to play with Tommy in the garden in the midday sun! And some days ago it was still snowing!Since the winter was so long and with not much sun, the clear blue sky, morning sun, and the green grass feels like a miracle to everybody! Tommy is psyched to see the real flowers, saying “fleur” to his daddy and “roža” to me. Everything feels more optimistic and happier in spring!I am looking forward to climb in the rock again. It’s fun to do indoor bouldering and some competitions, but only when... ]]> Sun, 14 Apr 2013 13:12:00 -0400 14023 2013-04-14 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_mi-na-otvoritvi-1365945176.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_p1050881-1365945177.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_finale1-1365945177.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_p1050880-1365945177.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_p1050795-1365945177.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_p1050800-1365945178.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14022-sweden-first-time-in-the-north-niccolo-ceria http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14022-sweden-first-time-in-the-north-niccolo-ceria Three months ago, My girlfriend and I decided to plan a little trip in the North to go in Scandivia’s landscapes and to do some bouldering.After taking fly tickets, we had the certainty about the trip and I started to think many rocks and new places where to climb. The fact to have the possibility to climb in new spots is really motivating and the north Europe isn’t such a frequented area.So a lot of stuff is new for our eyes, the sectors are unknown for us and this discovering is one of the most important things for my... ]]> Sat, 13 Apr 2013 12:18:00 -0400 14022 2013-04-13 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_arcanum-8a-risebo-photo-giulia-paoletti-fileminimizer-1365855527.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_by-the-book-8a-vastervik-foto-giulia-paoletti-3-fileminimizer-1365855528.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_by-the-book-8a-vastervik-foto-giulia-paoletti-5-fileminimizer-1365855528.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_fysyoologi-7c-vastervik-photos-giulia-paoletti-2-fileminimizer-1365855529.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_primitive-sds-8a-vastervik-first-ascent-foto-giulia-paoletti-4-fileminimizer-1365855529.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_soulfly-8a-vastervik-photo-giulia-paoletti-3-fileminimizer-1365855529.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14021-the-power-of-two-day-2-benjamin-rueck http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14021-the-power-of-two-day-2-benjamin-rueck I would like thank my sponsors, Adidas, 5.10, CAMP, Gnarly Nutrition, J-Tree Salve, and the Grand Junction Climbing Center for all of their support! 5:30 in the morning… I wake to the sound of silence creeping through my house; no one is awake at this point… except me. My first thought is to roll over and sleep the rest of the day away… but then I remember that it is time for the second day of the challenge. I have a difficult time bringing myself to a sitting position in my bed… my back aches,... ]]> Sat, 13 Apr 2013 04:55:00 -0400 14021 2013-04-13 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/14021_380-1366301453.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/14021_3751-1366301453.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/14021_373-1366301453.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/14021_401-1366301454.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/14021_402-1366301454.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14020-training-with-a-champion-josh-levin http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14020-training-with-a-champion-josh-levin For the past month and a half, I have had the unique privilege of training with one of the best female sport climbers in the world, Charlotte Durif. If that name doesn’t ring a bell, simply enter her name into any respectable search engine and you’ll get a long list of career accomplishments, sponsor lists, her own professional website, and countless photos and videos of her being an all-around boss at competitions and outdoor crags. She’s also a five-time World Champion and is one of the few women in the world to have climbed 9a (5.14d). I’ve watched her... ]]> Fri, 12 Apr 2013 23:28:00 -0400 14020 2013-04-12 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_charlotte-1365809326.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14019-open-rope-nationals-joseph-gifford http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14019-open-rope-nationals-joseph-gifford I recently competed in the open SCS Nationals at the Movement climbing gym in Boulder, Colorado. It was a flash format for the qualifying rounds with two climbs. My first climb was interesting, there weren't really any hard moves in it but the climb itself was tricky in parts, it had a cool huge ledge traverse in the middle of the climb and then up into the more overhanging section where I fell, had more powerful big moves. I don't think I climbed my first climb very fluidly which led to getting super tired when I hit the over... ]]> Fri, 12 Apr 2013 02:48:00 -0400 14019 2013-04-12 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_scs-open-1365734883.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14018-strate http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14018-strate After 60+ hours of international travel, taking me from the valleys of Switzerland through the French countryside and three different airports, I found myself sitting under the now unfamiliar tread wall at The Spot Gym in Boulder, CO doing my best to prepare for the 2013 SCS National Championships which was only 2 days away. I still wasn’t quite sure how I was going to manage to hang on to plastic holds for more than a few moves after spending the past month getting nice and comfortable on the short, powerful, textured granite boulders of Ticino, Switzerland. ... ]]> Fri, 12 Apr 2013 02:37:00 -0400 14018 2013-04-12 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_carlo-scs-2013-2-1365734257.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_carlo-scs-2013-1-1365734257.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_scs-2013-podium-1365734258.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14017-stepping-it-up-fred-charron http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14017-stepping-it-up-fred-charron What a season! For the past 6 months, I have been trying to step up my game as a competition climber. I have competed at over 10 competitions this year, bouldering and lead competitions, trying to secure my spot on the national team and trying to obtain as much experience as possible. As much as it can be very hard and stressfull to train and compete non-stop, constantly raising your expectations, it kept me chalenged and motivated. The biggest challenge for me was avoiding injuries! Of course, I have been very healthy and... ]]> Fri, 12 Apr 2013 00:28:00 -0400 14017 2013-04-12 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_regionals-1365726482.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nationals-2-1365726482.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14015-heartbreak-crux-at-red-rocks-seth-rogers http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14015-heartbreak-crux-at-red-rocks-seth-rogers Last weekend, I went to Red Rocks outside of Las Vegas with 5.10 athlete Nick Bradley, climbing buddy Cameron Read and my little brother Ethan. We spent most of the time projecting at the Gallery Wall, but also spent a day at the Tsunami Wall. We tried the Black Corridor, but since it had the only shade that afternoon, it was a zoo. It was my first time at Red Rocks, so I didn't expect to send anything serious. But then I saw Nick on-sight Minstrel in the Gallery (5.12b). He recommended that I give it a try... ]]> Thu, 11 Apr 2013 05:46:00 -0400 14015 2013-04-11 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_seth-modified-1365659203.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_victory-1365659203.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_morning-gift-1365659205.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_ethan-sleeping-1365659206.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_ooh-1365659207.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_fam-1365659208.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_the-gift-2-1365659210.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14014-scs-open-nationals-alex-fritz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14014-scs-open-nationals-alex-fritz This past weekend I competed in the SCS Open Nationals at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder, Co. I didn't prepare for this competition as much as I would have liked but results showed I was in pretty decent shape! Friday evening was Qualifiers and my initial impression was the routes looked a little bit easier than last years. Last year I finished 14th and my whole goal for the competition was to best that. I didn't warm up enough for the first climb but I manged to finish the route! Already an improvement than last year! After... ]]> Thu, 11 Apr 2013 04:51:00 -0400 14014 2013-04-11 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_15124-524957390883304-685629938-n-1365655905.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_61517-524957400883303-631317081-n-1365655905.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_533358-524957777549932-269930471-n-1365655905.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_543697-524958220883221-750837251-n-1365655905.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14013-scs-2013-open-nationals-noah-ridge http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14013-scs-2013-open-nationals-noah-ridge Last weekend I competed in SCS Adult Open Nationals at Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder, Colorado.  I had a great time at nationals and I’m super excited that I made it on the podium for the first time at adult nationals placing third. I defiantly reached my goals and beyond at this competition.  ]]> Wed, 10 Apr 2013 20:07:00 -0400 14013 2013-04-10 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_podium-1365624423.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_anthem-1365624424.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_pic1-1365624424.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_pic3-1365624425.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14012-spring-time-in-the-rockies-brian-dunnohew http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14012-spring-time-in-the-rockies-brian-dunnohew I have also had a couple trips to outside of Wyoming this year. I got a good tour of Shelf Road from my good friend Fritz. Shelf felt pretty old school, very techy, keeps me on my toes. There were so many routes in such a small area. I will return there for sure. I got to make it down to St. George for a long weekend. I love that place and wish I could spend more time there. I traveled down with about 16 people...madness. Most were there to bike and climb a little. Some were... ]]> Wed, 10 Apr 2013 16:30:00 -0400 14012 2013-04-10 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_sinks-008-1365611410.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_st-george-2013-016-1365611410.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_sinks-013-1365611410.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_st-george-2013-028-1365611410.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_sinkspan2-1365611410.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_st-george-2013-013-1365611411.JPG