http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13703-novdec-2012-the-beginnings-of-a-climbing-team-will-roderick http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13703-novdec-2012-the-beginnings-of-a-climbing-team-will-roderick Classes have finished, and winter break is just starting. Over the past month, I’ve mostly been climbing indoors both at the gym on the Stanford campus and at Planet Granite in Sunnyvale, CA. Actually, just recently at Planet Granite, Andy Lamb and I saw Daniel Woods, Alex Johnson, and Kevin Jorgeson, who were teaching a clinic as part of Professional Climbers International. Andy and I have both been training hard, and we’ve also been taking interested students to the climbing gym. A couple days ago, we, along with another climbing buddy named Matthew, met with the director... ]]> Sat, 15 Dec 2012 05:22:00 -0500 13703 2012-12-15 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0986-1355548920.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13702-canadian-bouldering-series-fred-charron http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13702-canadian-bouldering-series-fred-charron We are now in mid-December and the 2012-2013 Canadian Bouldering series already had 6 events! The Tour de Bloc circuit is getting bigger and better every year. We are seeing bigger numbers, bigger and better gyms, stronger climbers and better route setting. With IFSC Bouldering World Cup stops coming to Canada, canadian climbers seem to take competitions more seriously and the competition circuit is definitely evolving. On the west coast and east coast we have already seen this year the highest numbers of registered competitors ever. 1st Tour de Bloc Stop -... ]]> Fri, 14 Dec 2012 20:12:00 -0500 13702 2012-12-14 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bonuel-20121201-310-1355515962.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bonuel-20121201-486-1355515963.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13701-finding-the-guts-benjamin-rueck http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13701-finding-the-guts-benjamin-rueck Do I have the Guts? I think yes Pulling off the side of the interstate outside of Glenwood Springs, CO there is a sense of dread that generally washes over a new-comer to the Puoux. Situated right next to a tunnel a climber gets to enjoy not just the sound of trucks and cars passing by at 75 miles per hour… but also the silly tradition of honking through the tunnel as well- this instills a sense of… “why the freaking hell did I come here?” ]]> Fri, 14 Dec 2012 18:25:00 -0500 13701 2012-12-14 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13701_21900-10151537209318243-1960658603-n1-1355766023.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13701_395137-593908531174-766808739-n2-1355766022.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13701_319611-593903196864-891062879-n-1355766022.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13701_403102-593903127004-468591216-n1-1355766023.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13698-petzl-roc-trip-and-beyond-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13698-petzl-roc-trip-and-beyond-jon-cardwell I just arrived in the States after a three week stint in South America. There were two plans layed out for this trip, the first being the 10th annual Petzl Roc Trip. I was fortunate enough to have been part of developing the Piedra Parada for the event back in March. I joined a small group from Petzl and others from Argentina to discover, bolt and clean new lines in the various rock formations that surround the Piedra. That first trip, even though not my first visit to South America, taught me a lot about myself and the unique... ]]> Wed, 12 Dec 2012 21:54:00 -0500 13698 2012-12-12 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_ba-from-the-air-1355349282.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_critter-friend-1-1355349282.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_2012-10-red-8141-1355349283.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_rrg-petzl-2-1355349283.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_esquel-childern-1355349283.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_-m3c7856-1355349283.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_rrg-1-1355349284.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13695-spain-part-2-jen-vennon http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13695-spain-part-2-jen-vennon Our first week in Spain quickly fell into a comfortable rhythm. We’d sleep in late and then spend an hour or more drinking coffee, checking the slow internet, discuss our plans for climbing and enjoying the company of Joe and Colette.We managed to climb five of our first seven days in Spain. We visited a crag in St. Lloranc that was steep and super fun. We spent several days at Santa Linya, and we even made the voyage down to Margalef.Each crag we visited had it’s own feel and it’s own style. Perhaps my favorite thing about visiting a... ]]> Wed, 12 Dec 2012 00:41:00 -0500 13695 2012-12-12 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-2819-1355272862.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-2490-1355272860.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-2813-1355272861.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-2805-1355272862.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-2818-1355272863.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-2830-1355272864.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13694-having-fun-at-the-pan-american-championships-seth-rogers http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13694-having-fun-at-the-pan-american-championships-seth-rogers I recently competed in the Pan American Youth Climbing Championships.  I grabbed a silver in ropes and bronze overall.  There were teams from Chile, Peru, Argentina, Brazil, Canada, Venezuela, Columbia, Costa Rica and Mexico.  USA had an awesome team and we won overall. ]]> Tue, 11 Dec 2012 06:24:00 -0500 13694 2012-12-11 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_mingling-1355207049.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_pensive-1355207050.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bronze-1355207052.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_machu-picchu-1355207053.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_ropes-1355207054.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_silver-1355207055.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_usa-medals-1355207057.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13692-montserrat-again-collbato-onsight-climbing-ferran-guerrero-hervas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13692-montserrat-again-collbato-onsight-climbing-ferran-guerrero-hervas Montserrat never disappoints, and is that in the last month and a half approx, just climb there and my intentions are other than just climbing here, a thousand things I've always explained, and lately there's no way we take pictures if Kalvin and climbing I alone, is what has climbing rope. Another visit finalizing scaled to view here and there, making meters without stopping, and to enjoy as many years that did not, we had to visit in Collbató, Pis-sector Segon Esquerra, there has been scaled Kalvin much as wanted and I've inflated climbing at discretion, with the idea... ]]> Mon, 10 Dec 2012 15:51:00 -0500 13692 2012-12-10 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13692_mont-00-1355419622.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13692_pc010653-1355419622.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13691-ben-spannuth-two-tiny-routes http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13691-ben-spannuth-two-tiny-routes This one has been in the vault for a little bit but this story starts in Spring 2009 when I was helping coordinate the Rocky Mountain Region of the Collegiate Climbing Series. During its first season in CO I met Will Anglin, who at the time was attending Western State and spearheaded the season’s final regional comp. I went to Gunnison to help with the comp and just like after most of the CCS comps stuck around for the day after to check out an area I hadn’t been to near the hosting school. This time it was Hartman... ]]> Mon, 10 Dec 2012 03:12:00 -0500 13691 2012-12-10 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_the-bleeding-1355109176.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_the-grad-1355109176.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_mill-creek-golf-1355109176.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_cobra-strike-2009-1355109176.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13690-chillen-in-chile-part-2-joseph-gifford http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13690-chillen-in-chile-part-2-joseph-gifford So the day before the actual competition started we decided to calm our nerves and take a trip out to the world’s largest pool along the Chilean coastline. It was by far one of the coolest things I've ever seen, it is more than 1,000 yards long, covers 20 acres, has 115-ft deep end and holds 66 million gallons of water! It was off season so no one was really at the resort and we basically hustled our way into the pool convincing the managers to let us swim in the pool and have some fun. The most amazing... ]]> Sun, 09 Dec 2012 19:21:00 -0500 13690 2012-12-09 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_305914-558430707507300-127143901-n-1355080889.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_604015-4042793035319-177580149-n-1355080890.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_61206-4042793475330-1623539327-n-1355080890.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_248964-4042798795463-732147275-n-1355080890.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13689-one-of-my-better-weeks-nicholas-milburn http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13689-one-of-my-better-weeks-nicholas-milburn Let's just start out by saying that this week is awesome. I am now officially the owner of a DSLR camera. I bought myself a Canon 60D, so now I won't have to ask my step-dad for his camera or be stuck with just my cell phone. This is actually the same camera my step-dad has, so I'm familiar with all its buttons and knobs. Now all I need is a trip to officially christen my camera.Some more fantastic news. University of Colorado at Boulder accepted me!!! This is my number one choice of college, so I am pretty... ]]> Sun, 09 Dec 2012 16:51:00 -0500 13689 2012-12-09 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_regionals-0486-1355071909.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_regionals-1-of-1-1355071908.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_regionals-0553-1355071908.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_regionals-0436-1355071909.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_regionals-0470-1355071909.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_regionals-0515-1355071909.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13688-winter-coughs-comps-and-colds-alan-cassidy http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13688-winter-coughs-comps-and-colds-alan-cassidy Since I got back from the USA the time has flown by. October was a month of daydreaming that we had started our trip to the RRG a month later as I witnessed, from afar, just what the cutting edge climbers can do with lots of time and lots of good conditions. Back here in Scotland I have been busy and ill in about equal doses. Though the schedule all involves climbing, it is amazing how little climbing it leaves you time for yourself. The playful fun of coaching the TCA Glasgow Youth... ]]> Sat, 08 Dec 2012 08:47:00 -0500 13688 2012-12-08 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_ilcc-rt2-1354956465.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_gcc-boulder-comp-1354956466.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_thetouch-1354956466.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13685-pneumonia-at-the-red-fred-charron http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13685-pneumonia-at-the-red-fred-charron I finally got the chance to go back to Red River Gorge in October. My first trip at the Red was in my worst shape ever! Now this time I made sure to be in the best shape possible. With a few hard lines in mind and my top shape after training for the Atlanta world cup, I was pretty confident I would crush!! Little did I know, all that hard work for the Opening of our new gym in September and all of my non-stop training was a little much for my body! I could feel... ]]> Fri, 07 Dec 2012 17:16:00 -0500 13685 2012-12-07 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_2012-10-red-6534-1354900617.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_2012-10-red-6645-1354900617.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_2012-10-red-6937-1354900617.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13684-what-falling-can-teach-us-wrapping-up-australia-ben-rueck http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13684-what-falling-can-teach-us-wrapping-up-australia-ben-rueck 2012-11-06 17.20.42The last attempt day for Punks in The Gym was descent. I had some high hopes and perhaps even some unreasonable expectations when it came to sending that route. However; after the initial disappointment of feeling of failure I came to realize that what I gained from my experience on Punks was more valuable than if I would have just sent it.2012-11-07 17.51.01I am not a mental climber yet… the head game that is required to accomplish these kinds of routes is something that can only come with lots of experience and lots of failures. Especially when it... ]]> Fri, 07 Dec 2012 16:43:00 -0500 13684 2012-12-07 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13684_2012-10-29-21-50-06-1354923654.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13684_2012-11-07-17-51-01-1354923654.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13684_2012-11-06-17-20-42-1354923654.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13682-back-from-the-rrg-jimmy-webb http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13682-back-from-the-rrg-jimmy-webb So my 2 and a half weeks in the Red River Gorge have now fully come to a close. I had an amazing time there and really began to better myself as a sport climber. I pushed through mental and physical barriers that I had never even encountered before and now, at the end of the trip, see so many doors opening and the possibilities are endless. While I was there though it wasn't all just sport routes. I spent one day trying a very neat bouldering project that had yet to be climbed.... ]]> Fri, 07 Dec 2012 03:26:00 -0500 13682 2012-12-07 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13682_jimmwebb-1354918195.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13681-video-big-worm-v14-by-lt11-with-dave-wetmore http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13681-video-big-worm-v14-by-lt11-with-dave-wetmore In 2008, Dave Wetmore suffered a debilitating finger injury that has plagued his climbing career. After fully rupturing the A2 pulley on his left ring finger and having a rarely done reconstructive surgery, his doctor told him that climbing would be nearly impossible, especially at a professional level. After a year of rehabilitation Dave hit the bouldering scene with a new found drive. Dave set his sights on a V14 in Colorado called BIG WORM and never looked back. This is the story of Dave's experience with BIG WORM. ]]> Fri, 07 Dec 2012 01:32:00 -0500 13681 2012-12-07 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_big-w-title-plate-vimeo-1354843973.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13680-how-to-climb-multi-pitches-adam-karpierz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13680-how-to-climb-multi-pitches-adam-karpierz If you’re that kind of a ‘too serious’ climber, don’t waste your time on reading this rather humoristic approach to frivolous adventures of light-headed people. Instead, spend your time on more rewarding matters, such as campus board or studying in library about psychosomatic conditionings. ]]> Thu, 06 Dec 2012 10:49:00 -0500 13680 2012-12-06 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_seriee-limite-duc-1354790974.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_seriee-limite1-1354790974.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13678-petzl-roctrip-argentinia-melissa-le-neve http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13678-petzl-roctrip-argentinia-melissa-le-neve After a loooong time on the road/plane/rock, browsing some incredible place, I finally land in France and have the time to tell you a bit about the last incredible adventure rich in experience I lived in Argentinia during the Petzl Roc Trip !After a month spent in RRG, where I was really happy to rich some of my goals (50 words for pumps / Southern Smoke ) but left some others.... I took the plane direction South America : Buenos Aires. Typical city of south America, hudge, cosmopolite but at the same time poor, dangerous. I have heard some... ]]> Wed, 05 Dec 2012 16:31:00 -0500 13678 2012-12-05 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_-mg-0251-1354725080.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13678_-mg-0235-1354835909.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13678_-mg-0285-1354835909.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13678_-mg-0277-1354835910.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13678_-mg-0173-1354835910.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13678_-mg-0272-1354835910.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13678_-mg-0231-1354835911.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13677-spain-part-1-jen-vennon http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13677-spain-part-1-jen-vennon  After a grueling few weeks of writing sub plans, being a single dog parent, and packing, I plopped into my tiny airplane seat and immediately felt a load lifted from my shoulders. When you’re a Kindergarten teacher it’s not easy to wrangle an extra week of vacation in the fall. But I’d managed it and couldn’t have been more psyched. ]]> Wed, 05 Dec 2012 01:34:00 -0500 13677 2012-12-05 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_santa-linya-1354671254.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13676-finishing-up-fall-francesca-metcalf http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13676-finishing-up-fall-francesca-metcalf This fall, I've finally been able to get outside enough to not consider myself a full time gym rat. I've been hanging out at local bouldering areas like Horse Pens 40 and Little Rock City almost every weekend and I've been able to find some long term projects. Luckily the weather still hasn't turned very cold here, so climbing outside is still possible, even for someone as wimpy as I am when it comes to cold. Over the Thanksgiving break, I got to do some more climbing, but a little farther from home than usual. My family and I... ]]> Tue, 04 Dec 2012 19:07:00 -0500 13676 2012-12-04 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_5-10-1-1354648045.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_5-10-2-1354648045.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13675-what-running-injuries-can-teach-me-about-climbing-jess-taverna http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13675-what-running-injuries-can-teach-me-about-climbing-jess-taverna Yesterday, I was supposed to run my first marathon. Over the last few years, I’ve run a bunch of half marathons and a 17 mile mountain race, but I’ve never gone the full distance. Having grown up in Boston, the allure of marathoning has been strong since before I ran my first race; with an inherent competitive fire and nostalgia for my hometown, running a marathon is always framed within the context of running fast enough to then go run Boston. ]]> Mon, 03 Dec 2012 17:48:00 -0500 13675 2012-12-03 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_043-1354556884.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_042-1354556885.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_044-1354556886.JPG