http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13654-coming-up-for-air-chris-sinatra http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13654-coming-up-for-air-chris-sinatra After weeks on the road calling parking lots home and sleeping in a space the size of a double-wide coffin I’ve returned to civilized society. For the first time in 6 years I made it home in time to join my family for Thanksgiving. In between the alternating rounds of voracious food annihilation and family banter I took some time to reflect on where the last few months of 2012 have taken me. ]]> Tue, 27 Nov 2012 18:07:00 -0500 13654 2012-11-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_p1020037-copy-1354039636.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_imgp2553-copy-1354039638.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_scan-2-copy-1354039639.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_scan-1-copy-1354039639.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_scan-13-copy-1354039639.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13616-squamish-2-the-reckoning-flannery-shay-nemirow http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13616-squamish-2-the-reckoning-flannery-shay-nemirow I'm long past being 'in' Squamish, that infernal rain has started, and the climbing season there has come to it's yearly close. Squamish holds a dear place in my heart, the destination of my first international climbing trip, the first hard boulder problems I flashed, the start of my first solo road trip. The forest didn't disappoint this go around, either. It was my third time there and most extended visit yet.  ]]> Sat, 10 Nov 2012 02:45:00 -0500 13616 2012-11-10 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0461-1352515554.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_paul-sir-le-twat-1352515554.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_flann-frontside-1352515554.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0511-1352515556.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_reckoning-stand-so-1352515556.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13084-joes-valley-wrap-up-chris-sinatra http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13084-joes-valley-wrap-up-chris-sinatra Joe's Valley is one of the most gym-like areas I've ever visited. While the problems can vary widely from boulder to boulder, most share a common theme- long moves between generally positive holds on an otherwise blank sea of gorgeous sandstone. In this way, Joe's lends itself to a very dynamic style of climbing. Luckily for me, this is one of the forms of climbing that I'm least accustomed to, at least outdoors. My first week in Joe's was an abrupt adjustment, especially after my past month on the very static, precise granite of Bishop.... ]]> Wed, 23 May 2012 00:48:00 -0400 13084 2012-05-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_521425-10101107419529213-3201918-60454499-372249947-n-1337734099.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_051812-joes-wrap-up-1337734099.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_533341-440972255915423-400460629966586-1745695-1777284552-n-1337734099.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_545890-3774421435528-1126577758-33677672-895239862-n-1337734099.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_149715-440972949248687-400460629966586-1745704-230436617-n-1337734099.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13067-bishop-2012-photo-dump-bryan-boyko http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13067-bishop-2012-photo-dump-bryan-boyko Here are some of my favorite photos from my time in Bishop this winter. I initially travelled down with my friends Bret Johnston and Kevin Carhart to stay in Bishop for about two weeks and then I returned after about a month in Hueco to stay for another couple weeks with Jesse Warren and Chris Sinatra, as well as some other friends already in Bishop (Yea Jon Thompson, Joel Zerr, and Colin Barnes!!!). I had come quite close to Buttermilker Sit and Mandala sit on previous trips and was capable of climbing through the crux... ]]> Thu, 17 May 2012 14:37:00 -0400 13067 2012-05-17 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_11white-sands-nm-1337265434.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_1me-under-the-swarm-1337265435.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_1bret-1337265436.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_1chris-sinatra-on-social-distortion-1337265436.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_1jesse-on-spectre-1337265438.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_1jesse-warren-on-jedi-mind-tricks-1337265439.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_black-velvet-canyon-1337265441.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12984-life-on-the-road-chris-sinatra http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12984-life-on-the-road-chris-sinatra Most of my posts up to now have focused purely on aspects of my trip relating to climbing. While climbing has taken up a significant share of my focus, it’s not the sole purpose for this journey and isn’t the only area where I’ve felt I’ve been able to mature and grow.I’ve now been living on the road for the past two months and while I was only planning on the trip lasting another month I’m thinking I’ll try to keep it going as long as possible. This trip has been providing some much needed perspective as... ]]> Fri, 20 Apr 2012 21:03:00 -0400 12984 2012-04-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_041612-brain-drain-1334955814.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0563-1334955814.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_563183-10150649678967809-561567808-9211624-151397162-n-1334955816.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12709-chris-sinatras-hueco-wrap-up http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12709-chris-sinatras-hueco-wrap-up I was initially struck by the beauty of the area, an oasis in the deserts of greater El Paso, as much as the fun, gymnastic style of movement. This area put my foot trickery to the test, forcing me to expand my heel-toe cam skills like never before. Hueco was everything I had hoped it would be and more, which is a lot to say considering I’ve been hearing about this place for over a decade. With Hueco as my first stop I’m feeling stronger than ever and with sends of my first and second V13s behind me my... ]]> Wed, 07 Mar 2012 18:51:00 -0500 12709 2012-03-07 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-4792-1331146281.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-4864-1331146282.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-4900-1331146284.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12703-chris-sinatra-sends-crown-of-aragorn-v13-chris-sinatra http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12703-chris-sinatra-sends-crown-of-aragorn-v13-chris-sinatra Latching the ear, my body listed dangerously to the left, my foot miraculously finding its berth on the long, thin edge. With a split grip that was far from ideal, I struggled to readjust and salvage the attempt. It crossed my mind to abandon this go, but this was my first time sticking the crux move from the start and I was not going to give up without a fight. Swapping feet and latching the next crimp, then transitioning into the beginning sequence of Better Eat Your Wheaties, the send was anything but a given. It would be a... ]]> Tue, 06 Mar 2012 19:45:00 -0500 12703 2012-03-06 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-4955-resize-1331063115.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-4957-resize-1331063117.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-4958-resize-1331063118.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-4966-resize-1331063120.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12548-wet-dream-in-black-velvet-canyon-chris-sinatra http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12548-wet-dream-in-black-velvet-canyon-chris-sinatra A couple weekends back a few friends and I ventured out to Red Rocks to spend some time projecting Wet Dream (V12), a stellar roof problem out in Black Velvet Canyon. This was my first time laying eyes on the boulders out there and I was not disappointed. With some good height, tricky technical movement, and a healthy dose of burl Wet Dream was everything the guidebook photos made it out to be and more. Our group quickly pieced together the bottom cruxes early in the day but were stymied by the top section, with its... ]]> Mon, 23 Jan 2012 23:29:00 -0500 12548 2012-01-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-2134-1327361372.JPG