http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12439-its-beginning-to-look-a-lot-like-christmas-literally-emily-dudley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12439-its-beginning-to-look-a-lot-like-christmas-literally-emily-dudley Snow, snow, snow! It is snowing in Colorado. Which makes sense, it is December. However, I am always surprised by the weather; it can be sunny and 50 degrees one week and the next 7 degrees with ten inches of snow. The arrival of snow here means one thing. It is training time because Hueco season is upon us.I have been putting mad time in at the gym, getting my crimp on! I have unfinished business in Hueco, last year I fell off the top of It’s a Good Day for Swiss Crisp Mix_V10, twice. I can’t wait to... ]]> Sat, 24 Dec 2011 19:33:00 -0500 12439 2011-12-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_gym-sesh-1324755195.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12438-motivation-from-all-the-right-places-emily-dudley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12438-motivation-from-all-the-right-places-emily-dudley December is a busy time for everyone with finals, the holidays, and the height of competition season.On December 10th we hosted the ABS13 Youth Regionals at Miramont Lifestyle Fitness. I love setting for youth competitions. All the problems fit me perfectly and the kids are amazing. I can’t believe how good the competitors are. From the youngest kids to the 18 year olds, the talent is unbelievable. The future of our sport is in capable hands. The next generation is going to do things we did not think possible. All the kids are so psyched! It is very inspiring.... ]]> Sat, 24 Dec 2011 19:30:00 -0500 12438 2011-12-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_can-opener-v11-1324755033.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12437-regionals-delaney-miller http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12437-regionals-delaney-miller Two weeks ago was bouldering regionals. I took first, but I had made quite a few mistakes. I suppose that's what competitions are really about- efficiency. Everybody makes mistakes, everybody is usually strong and capable of the climbs as well. But in most cases, especially at higher level competitions, the climbers that are most efficient and minimizes their mistakes are the ones that take first. I'm glad this competition was not nationals because there would have been even more strong climbers trying to be the most efficient. Two weeks ago there were seven girls in my category. At divisionals,... ]]> Sat, 24 Dec 2011 16:36:00 -0500 12437 2011-12-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_delaney-regionals-1324744572.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12433-winter-in-california-mayan-smith-gobat http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12433-winter-in-california-mayan-smith-gobat After five weeks in New Zealand, it felt like high time to leave... The weather had changed to a nasty Easterly flow. Low-lying cloud rolls in off the sea, leaving Christchurch damp and miserable. "The Cave" is worst of all - It is the one place left to climb, and faces due east, therefore immediately becoming a nasty spooge bowl! A week before I left I came very close to climbing one of the few climbs which I have not climbed in the Cave, but the Easterly made a send impossible. A little frustrating, yet it made leaving NZ... ]]> Wed, 21 Dec 2011 18:49:00 -0500 12433 2011-12-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1422-1324493379.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1399-1324493379.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12430-joes-valley-2011-ian-dory http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12430-joes-valley-2011-ian-dory Fixing the CamperWith October on the farm being so busy and life’s demands increase it’s a hard time to fit in little things like fixing a destroyed 1963 camper from the mob of teenage boys who have been “chilling” in it while I was away on my last trip. So Jes & I had to kick it into high gear to prep for the up coming road trip with our friends Amy Langemore from Australia and Nalle Hukkataival from Finland. Ripping the back end of the camper off, replacing all the rotten wood, adding new insulation, and revamping... ]]> Tue, 20 Dec 2011 04:27:00 -0500 12430 2011-12-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-4929-1324355234.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-4838-1324355234.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12428-no-bolts-no-holds-new-project-ferran-guerrero-hervas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12428-no-bolts-no-holds-new-project-ferran-guerrero-hervas As has become common, traditional climbing, doses, and do homework while I have pending, among other things, teach the way of the Clean Met, which is gradually engaging, if we return to the Peak must practice and better than our earth, rock uncertain, pending other duties, clean finish line bolts not as welldefined No Holds Dominic, there is little dams, the feeling is the solution ... ]]> Mon, 19 Dec 2011 17:08:00 -0500 12428 2011-12-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12428_013-1324398946.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12413-sonnie-trotter-ascends-ambrosia-v12 http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12413-sonnie-trotter-ascends-ambrosia-v12 Yesterday, Sonnie Trotter made a rare (5th) ascent of Ambrosia V12?  Being the second climber to do it since a major foothold broke,  the first being Enzo Oddo, who claimed the 4th ascent at the tender age of 15 just last year.  The 40 foot super highball was first established by Five Ten athlete Kevin Jorgeson and climbs directly up the south face of the Grandpa peabody boulder.  Here's what Sonnie said in an email today.... ]]> Wed, 14 Dec 2011 17:41:48 -0500 12413 2011-12-14 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12413_image0031_1323885321.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12413_image0041_1323885321.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12413_image0051_1323885321.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12413_image006_1323885321.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12410-dark-horse-series-sebastien-lazure http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12410-dark-horse-series-sebastien-lazure We did the 5 hours drive to Everett, MA near Boston. It was my first time in a Dark Horse Comp and I had plenty of fun! there was some nice problems and every one were super friendly! Actually, I feel in pretty good shape! and I think I climbed really well that day! I made it to finals being 2nd in qualification. Unfortunately, I didn't feel the first problem in any way.. we had to turn the corner of the wall and reach for two holds on a volume, I tried it a couple ways but none felt... ]]> Mon, 12 Dec 2011 20:21:00 -0500 12410 2011-12-12 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bagleyDH20122loresselect1782copy_1323721265.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bagleyDH20122loresselect1761copy_1323721265.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bagleyDH20122loresselect1557copy_1323721265.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bagleyDH20122loresselect1405copy_1323721265.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bagleyDH20122loresselect1616copy_1323721265.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12388-targasonne-returns-ferran-guerrero-hervas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12388-targasonne-returns-ferran-guerrero-hervas With the excuse that it was the anniversary of Laia and Leti, we decided to rent a house in the middle of the town of Targasonne, where at other times we were treated very well, so where we would be better and incidentally was an excuse to celebrate and climbing toward Targasonne for two days. ]]> Mon, 05 Dec 2011 17:16:00 -0500 12388 2011-12-05 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12388_039_1323126585.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12345-mint-vermont-weather-an-fa-and-a-trip-to-arkansas-with-brian-bittner http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12345-mint-vermont-weather-an-fa-and-a-trip-to-arkansas-with-brian-bittner This year has been a much different one in my climbing career. It started off as recent year's have with a trip South, some local spring climbing and regular training in the gym. As the weather got warmer and the climbing got a bit lack luster, work starting picking up. I run a business as an antique dealer and travel to shows throughout the Northeast to setup at shows. I found myself especially busy this year. I had more house calls, found more merchandise and went to more antique shows to sell. The result of this was significantly less... ]]> Sun, 27 Nov 2011 18:39:00 -0500 12345 2011-11-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_OGE_1322419151.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12335-setting-in-kansas-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12335-setting-in-kansas-jon-cardwell Last weekend I was invited to a small gym in Wichita, Kansas to set a small bouldering comp and for some coaching. I took off early Friday morning. I was particularly worked from setting for an ABS comp the day before in Fort Collins and a week of hard work at the gym + recovering from a bout of food poisoning in Hueco…excuses… However, Ryan Sewell, fellow setter and coworker at Movement is perpetually psyched on making things happen. I know a lot of people are like this, but Ryan really, really wants to get things done. Thus, I... ]]> Thu, 24 Nov 2011 02:54:00 -0500 12335 2011-11-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0431_1322103243.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0432_1322103244.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0433_1322103245.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0434_1322103245.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0435_1322103246.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0434_1322103247.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0437_1322103247.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12302-china-wrap-up-and-hueco-jon-cardwell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12302-china-wrap-up-and-hueco-jon-cardwell I’m officially back in Boulder now, my home base in the us. Well, not officially, I’m leaving in a couple days to Wichita, Kansas to reset a climbing wall with my friend and coworker at Movement Climbing and Fitness, Ryan Sewell. I’ll be gone through the weekend setting and doing bit of coaching for the local climbers. After that, I will finally be at home for bit. The last month has been a whirlwind of traveling, climbing and work. It all started in California where I met up with Kevin Newell and Beau Khaler en route to China for... ]]> Wed, 16 Nov 2011 20:30:00 -0500 12302 2011-11-16 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0351_1321475446.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0356_1321475447.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0395_1321475447.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0407_1321475448.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_IMG0424_1321475449.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12300-comp-season-is-starting-sebastien-lazure http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12300-comp-season-is-starting-sebastien-lazure Outdoor season here is slowly disappearing under fallen leaves! At least comps are there to keep us motivated! Last week, Joe Rockhead's Rock Gym in Toronto held the first TDB comp of the year! It went pretty well for me, especially in finals! I was confident and felt good! I finished 3rd in qualification and 1st in finals!! Route setter did an amazing job, with a slightly different style then usual.. maybe cause of the clinic they had we Tonde! more volumes!! ]]> Wed, 16 Nov 2011 04:28:00 -0500 12300 2011-11-16 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_201111050186bonuel1024x680_1321417713.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12280-two-more-classics-magic-wood-tobias-haller http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12280-two-more-classics-magic-wood-tobias-haller I wrote about the "Astronautenfieber" in my last blog when I unfortunately didn't have the time to finish it off. I wouldn't call this one a proper highball but the 5 meter overhanging arete sure is high enough to pump up some adrenalin once you reach the crux. Anyways, motivation was high and I couldn't wait to get back on the rock again. A few days later I found myself just around the corner warming up on that classic slopy traverse. A couple of people were already trying the first moves of Astronautenfieber, so I couldn't resist the perfectly... ]]> Thu, 10 Nov 2011 14:04:00 -0500 12280 2011-11-10 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12280_img1_1321033874.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12280_img2_1321033874.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12260-carlo-traversi-featured-on-discovery-channels-adrenaline-lab http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12260-carlo-traversi-featured-on-discovery-channels-adrenaline-lab Five Ten Elite Athlete Carlo Traversi is featured in the latest video from the Degree Men Adrenaline Lab. This kid is going places and we are happy he is part of the Five Ten family. ]]> Fri, 04 Nov 2011 18:09:06 -0400 12260 2011-11-04 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12260_carlo1_1320430720.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12259-fall-temps-in-the-poudre-emily-dudley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12259-fall-temps-in-the-poudre-emily-dudley It's finally fall in Colorado, and with cooler temperatures comes sendage! As a Colorado native and a resident of Fort Collins, I am lucky enough to climb year round. Now is the prime season in Poudre Canyon. On my first trip of the season I realized there is still so much I haven't even seen yet. So right now I am working on the first female ascent of Public Property V9, previously V11 until the start hold broke and became even bigger. Psyched for the send! ]]> Fri, 04 Nov 2011 17:41:00 -0400 12259 2011-11-04 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_PublicProperty_1320428501.jpeg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12235-northern-beatsan-arctic-boulder-adventure http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12235-northern-beatsan-arctic-boulder-adventure In May 2010 a highly motivated Boulder team met in Trondheim. My friends Justin Hawkins, Torstein Eide, Belinda Weiss and new “Newcomer” Therese Johansen and myself wanted to check the Norways best Bouldering Spots and moreover we wanted explore new areas along Norways never ending Coastlines. ]]> Tue, 01 Nov 2011 19:35:17 -0400 12235 2011-11-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12235_bernd1_1320177775.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12235_nb1_1320177775.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12235_nb2_1320177775.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12220-last-two-months-fabian-christof http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12220-last-two-months-fabian-christof The last couple of months One was for sure: After such great climbing in the Rocklands over six weeks there were two possibilities to go on. The first was to take a period of resting and just get over the really bad months in the Frankenjura while doing nothing! Especially doing nothing what has to do with rocks. Maybe you have some bbq, go a bit swimming and yes, relaxing! The alternative could have been trying to fight the bad conditions and to start a daily little war against creasy and wet rocks or boulders, tons of... ]]> Thu, 27 Oct 2011 16:43:00 -0400 12220 2011-10-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_CharityFlirsch_1319733826.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_CharityBoulder8B_1319733826.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_CharityBoulder28B_1319733826.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_Orange9mm8A_1319733826.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_PressureDrop8A_1319733826.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_ProblemValDaone_1319733827.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12207-nina-williams-sends-two-v10s-in-a-day http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12207-nina-williams-sends-two-v10s-in-a-day A couple weekends ago I traveled to Joe's Valley with intention to forget the real world for awhile in the desert. We were a little worried at first since the weather called for snow and rain, but we lucked out big time with just chilly - I mean, SENDING temps! The sandstone was at perfect grip-to-skin ratio, the sun said hello but didn't bake our motivation away, and the Food Ranch donuts were incredible as always. In fact I could probably credit the donuts for my sends of Resident Evil and Fingerhut, both in a day and my firsts... ]]> Tue, 25 Oct 2011 16:32:52 -0400 12207 2011-10-25 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12207_nw1_1319560651.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12163-september-october-update-kyle-francis http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12163-september-october-update-kyle-francis Sun, 16 Oct 2011 01:52:00 -0400 12163 2011-10-16