http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13160-josh-larson-at-the-2012-vail-world-cup http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13160-josh-larson-at-the-2012-vail-world-cup The 2012 Vail World Cup experience was amazing! When one thinks of Vail they might think of skiing and fur coat shops, when I think of Vail I think of rad competitive climbing and expensive pasta. Last year the wall was at a prime location near the center of the village and at the foot of the mountain, (Mt. unknown) and this year it was near the end of the village next to a soccer field….not ideal for spectating but it all worked out perfect in the end. Good job to all the setters, USA Climbing and comp coordinators... ]]> Sat, 16 Jun 2012 00:20:00 -0400 13160 2012-06-16 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_7339757932-9381a6bc0e-b-1339806030.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_7154556267-fe36bec9de-b-1339806030.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_7325774972-08e871b428-o-1339806031.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13156-the-saison-never-ends-bernd-zangerl http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13156-the-saison-never-ends-bernd-zangerl The bouldering saison never ends. It just goes from one place to another:-) in search of good conditions and dry Boulders. After trying some hard projects in Ticino this winter, I went back to the north side of the alps. Also there I had some „unfinished business“. It felt so good to try something different after such a long time. With no expectations, the moves felt much better than months before and one week later I opened a new great problem: „THE NORMOPATH“.Motivation was back, and just a few days later I opened another problem in the area. In... ]]> Thu, 14 Jun 2012 10:06:00 -0400 13156 2012-06-14 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_ragtime-4-1339668416.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_ragtime-3-sw-1339668416.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_der-normopath-5-sw-1339668416.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13139-malniu-new-spot-new-openings-ferran-guerrero-hervas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13139-malniu-new-spot-new-openings-ferran-guerrero-hervas Malniu is paradise for the boulder, I personally like much more than Targasonne, the type of climbing I like more, the possibility of new openings is immense and every week we discover new areas, new stones, new projects are, no week leave anything pending for the next visit, I look forward to come spring / summer to start making regular trips, is a luxury to be living right now in this wonderful place, I again crushed to make openings bear and friends rope, crash pads, camera, etc., to enjoy this place years ago I fell in love and sharing... ]]> Mon, 11 Jun 2012 06:54:00 -0400 13139 2012-06-11 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13139_valkiria-1339452427.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13139_valkiria-00-1339452427.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13139_004-1339452427.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13139_laia-1339452427.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13132-bishop-and-big-chief-nick-bradley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13132-bishop-and-big-chief-nick-bradley So last week I headed out to Bishop for my 4th time going there with some friends of mine. On my first day at the Happy's, I blew myself away with sending another v10 called Acid Wash, Acid Wash Right Sit v9, Dove Direct V9, Rave v7, and on-sighting Action Figure V6 all in one day. When I first got there I warmed up, and did Rave second go from the start. Acid Wash went down within about two hours of work, which was surprising to me because of how height-dependent the problem seemed, but I felt too good... ]]> Thu, 07 Jun 2012 00:04:00 -0400 13132 2012-06-07 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bishop1-1339027468.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13110-alpine-season-emily-dudley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13110-alpine-season-emily-dudley Alpine season is finally here. Say hello to long hikes, high elevation, and the best bouldering of the year. Last year I only went to Rocky Mountain National Park once. This year the park was climbable pretty early thanks to a fairly dry winter. On my one trip to the park last year I tried Outta Season_V8, established by my good friend and fellow Miramont route-setter Brian “BC” Camp. I did all the moves and linked it in two sections. So, on my first trip this season I had some unfinished business. Paul and I hiked up to the... ]]> Thu, 31 May 2012 16:24:00 -0400 13110 2012-05-31 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_joes-valley-2011-2-1338481474.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13100-heading-into-yosemite-steve-richert http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13100-heading-into-yosemite-steve-richert I first visited Yosemite Valley in 2008 on the tail end of my first climbing trip--which ended with Stefanie and I getting married in San Diego. It was my first ride through the valley and I was still green as a climber, so I could accept the chills that shot down my spine when I looked up into the cold stone face of El Capitan and imagined what it would be like to be adrift on that sea of granite. ]]> Wed, 30 May 2012 02:08:00 -0400 13100 2012-05-30 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-7223-1338343688.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-7303-1338343690.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-7193-1338343692.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13077-colorado-trip-and-limestone-cave-bouldering-in-vermont-sam-hayden http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13077-colorado-trip-and-limestone-cave-bouldering-in-vermont-sam-hayden Colorado trip and a fantastic day bouldering at the recently found limestone cave in central Vermont! A little slow getting to this post spring has been busy! The trip out to Colorado in April was a blast! Climbed at the Kluttergarden in Redcliff, Boulder Canyon, Wolcott, and Unaweep. Got closer on my projects in Boulder Canyon...but couldn't quite get them in the one day we had there. The Kluttergarden was amazing in Redcliff! Fantastic stone, nice movement, secluded beautiful climbs! If you are heading down I70 west then make a... ]]> Sun, 20 May 2012 12:24:00 -0400 13077 2012-05-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_imgp4104-1337516677.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_575168-3709952918800-1574931524-32820469-948215271-n-1337516678.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0062-1337516678.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_imgp4128-1337516678.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0068-1337516678.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13071-on-putting-a-nemesis-to-rest-melissa-lipani http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13071-on-putting-a-nemesis-to-rest-melissa-lipani Every climber, no matter how long you have been climbing, knows what it is like to have a nemesis. That one route or boulder problem that you just can’t seem to finish for some reason, usually that reason being more mental than physical. Quite often, you have worked out every move and just can’t for the life of you, seem to connect the dots. Rarely is it even the hardest thing numerically speaking you’ve ever done, and often it surprises your climbing buddies who can’t believe you haven’t put the thing to rest. ]]> Fri, 18 May 2012 19:00:00 -0400 13071 2012-05-18 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13071_olivefrenchie1329-1337618025.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13069-getting-the-valley-experience-jessa-goebel http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13069-getting-the-valley-experience-jessa-goebel The first time I visited Yosemite was on a road trip with my climbing team, Team Texas, summer 2000. We were just passing through on our way from Nationals in Portland, OR to Bishop, CA. As soon as Nationals were done we all packed into the van (16 people and a large dog in a 15 passenger van) and started our drive through the night. We arrived just as the sun was rising and spent the day bouldering in the historical Camp 4. I had never been anywhere like the Valley and at that age and was very overwhelmed... ]]> Thu, 17 May 2012 21:46:00 -0400 13069 2012-05-17 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_valley-1337291199.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13028-canadian-bouldering-nationals-tour-de-bloc-2012-alex-david-johnson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13028-canadian-bouldering-nationals-tour-de-bloc-2012-alex-david-johnson For the second year in a row I was able to head on up to Canada to compete within the Canadian Nationals, this year held in Montreal. Yet again the Tour De Bloc crew did an amazing job of putting together a great competition. QualifiersThe qualifying round began April 15th very early in the morning compared to most comps in the US. It took a little while for my body to get used to the early morning climb as I had just arrived just a little before midnight, from Denver, the night before. Thankfully, I... ]]> Thu, 03 May 2012 06:46:00 -0400 13028 2012-05-03 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_148713-3782014789713-1257253525-33683070-1892610808-n-1336027614.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_319793-10150689797088857-505458856-9640683-202710125-n-1336027614.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_383512-3739927937568-1257253525-33665749-1019157301-n-1336027614.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_548559-3739928097572-1257253525-33665750-466662116-n-1336027614.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_574876-3739926137523-1257253525-33665740-1210376453-n-1336027614.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_574955-3782011629634-1257253525-33683062-1524728017-n-1336027615.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_577382-3782019469830-1257253525-33683081-63031730-n-1336027615.jpeg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13012-spring-in-the-poudre-emily-dudley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13012-spring-in-the-poudre-emily-dudley This winter was weird in Colorado. There was not that much snow and the weather was pretty warm. I was able to climb in Poudre Canyon almost every weekend. After several failed trips trying Public Property in which I was doing the crux but simply letting go of the crimp I found I was “over it” for the time being. The first weekend in April the weather forecast looked good again. I had some friends in town that had never been to the Poudre. While giving a grand overview of the problems I realized I hadn’t done a lot... ]]> Mon, 30 Apr 2012 03:07:00 -0400 13012 2012-04-30 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_public-property-1335755238.jpeg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13006-2012-canadian-nationals-and-season-wrap-up-sebastien-lazure http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13006-2012-canadian-nationals-and-season-wrap-up-sebastien-lazure April 14th-April 15th was the 9th TDB Canadian Nationals.  It has been my 6th Nationals and Approximately my 85th comp since I began competing at the end of 2004. ]]> Fri, 27 Apr 2012 04:09:00 -0400 13006 2012-04-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_528061-3782006669510-1210031931-n-1335499774.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_562617-3718281516421-1257253525-33660671-544152900-n-1335499774.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-9609-1335499774.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_380343-3739929417605-1257253525-33665756-2111206625-n-1335499775.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_523813-3724984683996-1257253525-33663161-144111877-n-1335499775.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_538783-3782009229574-1257253525-33683055-6373059-n-1335499776.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12998-busy-as-always-school-climbing-and-life-isabelle-faus http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12998-busy-as-always-school-climbing-and-life-isabelle-faus Its been very spazzy weather out here, 90 degree weather last week, raining and cold this week. Not the greatest for climbing, but I have been keeping my self busy with gym sessions and doing school work (or trying to). I have been to a few places out here, the hide away, happy valley, and farley are all super cool spots. Im real excited to do Y2K9, speed of life, and Im really psyched to check out Great Barrington. Anyone know anything about the fire at farley???This past weekend was Central Rock Gyms pro comp. They did a great... ]]> Tue, 24 Apr 2012 20:18:00 -0400 12998 2012-04-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_578062-794638775368-705045-35282152-468574926-n-1335298703.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12987-beautiful-northern-scotland-alan-cassidy http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12987-beautiful-northern-scotland-alan-cassidy One of the things that is truly great about British climbing is the vast variety of climbing styles that are practiced on this one island. The variety of rocks that we have here are absolutely incredible and nowhere is the variety of geology more profound than in North West Scotland. This is the most beautiful corner of the UK. Bays of silver sand beaches look out to archipelagos of small islands in one direction. In the other, heather clad rolling hills turn into dramatic mountains that climb steeply up from sea level to 1000m. ... ]]> Sat, 21 Apr 2012 06:33:00 -0400 12987 2012-04-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12987_alan-personal-blog-1-1--1335281793.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12987_alan-personal-blog-7-1335281793.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12987_alan-personal-blog-13-1335281793.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12987_alan-personal-blog-2-1--1335281793.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12981-canadian-bouldering-national-2012-in-montreal-melissa-lacasse http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12981-canadian-bouldering-national-2012-in-montreal-melissa-lacasse I have been competing for a long time. I have taken breaks throughout the years but I always get back to it because I enjoy it. I have always liked to have a direction or a goal to work towards. This is how I get myself motivated for the 6 months winter we have in Montreal. Comps allow me to keep training, see my weakness and it is such a good challenge. The hard part is staying injury free. I have only gotten hurt at bouldering comps. Basically, I go one comp at the time. If I am too... ]]> Fri, 20 Apr 2012 14:05:00 -0400 12981 2012-04-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_vertical-team-1334930728.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_qualifiers-1334930728.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12851-austrian-bouldering-nationals-2012-emi-moosburger http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12851-austrian-bouldering-nationals-2012-emi-moosburger This year I decided to take a break of the comp scene because I am doing my diploma at Uni besides working half time so there would not be much room and time flexibility for comps and I'd rather spend my free time on the rock than on comp walls. But the nationals were one of the events I wanted to attend anyway so I was well excited when the day came and we drove to the comp site.I trained a lot indoors the past months and felt in good shape, but had no clue what to expect, just... ]]> Sun, 15 Apr 2012 13:35:00 -0400 12851 2012-04-15 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_flomurnig-worst-enemy-1334496939.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_flomurnig-time-check-1334496939.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_flomurnig-problem-3-1334496940.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_flomurnig-problem-3-2-1334496940.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_flomurnig-volume-wrestling-on-problem-4-1334496940.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_flomurnig-curious-looks-after-the-last-bloc-1334496940.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12826-orange-wall-super-star-first-ascent-ferran-guerrero-hervas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12826-orange-wall-super-star-first-ascent-ferran-guerrero-hervas More and more discoveries, after a few days without being able to climb, the rain and the imminent arrival of our daughter's future was not the thing to go very far, so todaywe've finally been able to go take a look at some rocks that had controlled, and not been disappointed, so much to do here that I do not move in a while.We started with Oscar and Leti to clean up some lines clear and easy, allowing you toheat up nicely and already followed each was seeing future thanks to lines that we have not stopped craving without... ]]> Mon, 09 Apr 2012 17:18:00 -0400 12826 2012-04-09 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12826_000-1334075665.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12826_001-1334075665.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12826_002-1334075665.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12826_003-1334075665.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12826_004-1334075665.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12826_005-1334075665.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12826_006-1334075665.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12805-project-365-at-joshua-tree-and-new-shoes-steve-richert http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12805-project-365-at-joshua-tree-and-new-shoes-steve-richert We are 75 days into our 365 day climbing day challenge and have climbed 20,935 feet so far. Recently we visited the Five Ten outlet in Redlands CA en route to some climbing in Joshua Tree National Park... We have been looking forward to getting our new shoes from FiveTen and visiting Joshua Tree again (this time with warmer weather!) and so we chose to combine the two and hit up the outlet as we traveled from San Diego to JTNP. We were so excited to get our grubby mitts on some new climbing and approach shoes... ]]> Sun, 01 Apr 2012 22:35:00 -0400 12805 2012-04-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_5-1333319703.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_5-2-1333319703.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_joshuatree-1333319703.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_5-4-1333319704.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_-5-1333319705.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_cholla-1333319707.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12803-working-projects-and-heading-to-colorado-sam-hayden http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12803-working-projects-and-heading-to-colorado-sam-hayden Typical mixed March weather in Vermont! 80 degrees last week and 20 degrees this week. The snow is melted off all of my projects and I've been making progress on a couple. A few new FA's last week at the DEKD boulders and one at a new area we discovered. We've been finding ton's of new boulders within a few miles of our house...all gneiss...solid well featured stone! I'm posting some pics of the new finds and a video of a couple FA's and some work on a project.On Tuesday we head out to... ]]> Sun, 01 Apr 2012 01:41:00 -0400 12803 2012-04-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_imgp3738-1333244480.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_wp-000524-1333244481.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12792-life-is-just-so-swede-sasha-digiulian http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12792-life-is-just-so-swede-sasha-digiulian This past week I traveled to Stockholm, Sweden for the Tierra Boulder Battle and to climb some Swedish Granite. I could not have anticipated how cool and friendly all the Swedish people are and how great of a time I had! I was staying with one of my best friends, Mathilda Soderlund, who I have known previously through competitions. She is a great competitor and climber, but she also knows how to have fun. It was easy to have a lot of fun because we have very similar interests and hobbies… shopping, baking, watching movies, painting our nails... ]]> Thu, 29 Mar 2012 17:31:00 -0400 12792 2012-03-29 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0962-1333042293.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0877-1333042294.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0964-1333042295.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_cover-usa-climbing-1333042296.jpg