http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13719-finals-regionals-and-an-old-classic-matt-lubar http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13719-finals-regionals-and-an-old-classic-matt-lubar The last two weeks have been pretty insane. I've always thought that I do more schoolwork in the last two weeks of the semester than I do all year, and this year it felt no different. Studying for finals, writing papers, starting (and finishing) projects the night before they're due, it all gets pretty exhausting. Somehow though I've made it through, but not before coming down with an evil little cold. Luckily I've got a couple weeks to kick back, relax, and recover through Mom's delicious Christmas cookies. ]]> Sun, 23 Dec 2012 22:27:00 -0500 13719 2012-12-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0281-1356301678.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0283-1356301678.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0285-1356301678.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13718-hueco-bro-part-1-of-2-emily-dudley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13718-hueco-bro-part-1-of-2-emily-dudley Over Thanksgiving I decided to forgo football and over-eating to go to the desert and climb in Hueco Tanks, TX. Paul and I packed up the Prius and drove down, stopping on the way at the Hard Rock Casino to eat lunch and gamble. Let me just put it out there, I don’t like camping on a climbing trip. I like camping but only for about two days. Any longer and I feel achy, tired, dirty, and just plain gross. Thus I was relieved when we pulled into the Hueco Hacienda. ( http://www.huecohacienda.com/) The Hacienda is... ]]> Sun, 23 Dec 2012 20:31:00 -0500 13718 2012-12-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_hueco-think-tank-1356294706.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13706-bouldering-in-varazze-and-donnas-ita-niccolo-ceria http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13706-bouldering-in-varazze-and-donnas-ita-niccolo-ceria Hi there! After a month and over my blog reborn with new words about my bouldering adventures. The main topic is about the first half of December, since in November no important things happened. In fact November was a month of training except some little rock times with poor results. I had three weeks really full of mixed training sessions, with 6/7 sessions per week, by using different kind of trainings like fingerboard, pan gullich, climbing gym, a bit of rock and in addition of these things also three or four hours of stretching per week. After this period... ]]> Sun, 16 Dec 2012 14:33:00 -0500 13706 2012-12-16 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_alphacentauri-8a-varazze-3-fileminimizer-1355668387.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_klettermachine-8a-donnas-foto-max-buovli-2-fileminimizer-1355668387.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_klettermachine-8a-donnas-foto-max-buovli-4-fileminimizer-1355668388.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_niccol-ceria-raptor-standing-start-8a-varazze-f-c-core02-fileminimizer-1355668388.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_niccol-ceria-raptor-standing-start-8a-varazze-f-c-core01-fileminimizer-1355668388.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13681-video-big-worm-v14-by-lt11-with-dave-wetmore http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13681-video-big-worm-v14-by-lt11-with-dave-wetmore In 2008, Dave Wetmore suffered a debilitating finger injury that has plagued his climbing career. After fully rupturing the A2 pulley on his left ring finger and having a rarely done reconstructive surgery, his doctor told him that climbing would be nearly impossible, especially at a professional level. After a year of rehabilitation Dave hit the bouldering scene with a new found drive. Dave set his sights on a V14 in Colorado called BIG WORM and never looked back. This is the story of Dave's experience with BIG WORM. ]]> Fri, 07 Dec 2012 01:32:00 -0500 13681 2012-12-07 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_big-w-title-plate-vimeo-1354843973.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13665-a-hueco-thanksgiving-matt-lubar http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13665-a-hueco-thanksgiving-matt-lubar When November in Colorado rolls around, the leaves have fallen and the rockies are permanently white. It also means that the single greatest holiday is right around the corner: Thanksgiving. What could be better than a day devoted solely to the mass consumption of turkey and pumpkin pie? Well, actually, a day devoted solely to the mass consumption of turkey and pumpkin pie spent in Hueco Tanks, Texas! ]]> Thu, 29 Nov 2012 00:23:00 -0500 13665 2012-11-29 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_62508-10152297119625556-811572879-n-1354148623.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0106-1354148624.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13664-winter-recess-climbing-patrick-krieger http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13664-winter-recess-climbing-patrick-krieger While I write this, thousands of files are being transferred in a rush as late payments skim the loan deadline; the dollars transferred determining admittance into my local community college.  And, while I write this, new projects and searching for climbing fills my mind, pushing structured education out of thought.  I am finding within my mixed lifestyle the best way to balance school and climbing is total devotion to each in its respect, denying any mixing between the two passions, the rigor and repetition of junior college courses being absolutely anathema to climbing’s electricity. ]]> Wed, 28 Nov 2012 21:55:00 -0500 13664 2012-11-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-5212-800x533-1354139740.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_cave-800x533-1354139740.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_comp-533x800-1354139740.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_arete-1579x2560-493x800-1354139740.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_egg-800x533-1354139740.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13663-si-se-puede-nicholas-milburn http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13663-si-se-puede-nicholas-milburn I meant to write a blog part of the way through my trip, so that I could provide maximum detail, but I was pretty busy and lazy, so that never happened. On the plane ride home I ended up writing it, so it all worked out. ]]> Wed, 28 Nov 2012 21:55:00 -0500 13663 2012-11-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_chile-1-of-7-1354139717.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_chile-4-of-7-1354139718.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_chile-6-of-7-1354139718.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_chile-2-of-7-1354139718.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_chile-5-of-7-1354139718.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_chile-7-of-7-1354139718.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_chile-3-of-7-1354139718.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13661-the-return-carlo-traversi http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13661-the-return-carlo-traversi It's been nearly 6 months since I've stepped foot on US soil and it's been a wild ride to say the least. I would love to continue the adventure, but if there is one thing I've learned on this journey it's that other countries don't want you sticking around for more than 3 months. I barely escaped before the visa cutoff in South Africa and in a few days I will be doing the same in Europe when I jump on a plane for San Francisco. Better to be safe and bail than get fined and... ]]> Wed, 28 Nov 2012 20:11:00 -0500 13661 2012-11-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13661_-picture-3-1354133466-2-1354217404.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_picture-3-1354133466.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_picture-2-1354133466.png http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13643-competition-lessons-erica-carlson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13643-competition-lessons-erica-carlson I’m two comps into the season so far and have done a lot of learning so far (or at least I feel I have, hopefully the lessons stick). It’s quite different having comps start this early for those of us in Western Canada. Typically at this point, we’ve only had 1-2 fun comps. Mentally, I don’t think I’ve been quite ready for it but the plus to that is that I haven’t focused so much on my week leading up to comp routine/prep. I’ve been able to pinpoint a few things that work for me and a few that... ]]> Thu, 22 Nov 2012 04:16:00 -0500 13643 2012-11-22 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_funny-face-1353557788.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_funny-face-2-1353557789.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_177013-10151248788093421-856326001-o-1353557789.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13637-fear-and-loathing http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13637-fear-and-loathing A couple of months back I was bouldering in Magic Wood, Switzerland. I jumped off a boulder and landed totally normally onto relatively flat mats. As I hit the ground I heard a little snap in my leg.. It was broken. 3 months off spent training, a month just climbing on rope and I am now back bouldering. Its been a hard journey and it's still not over.... ]]> Tue, 20 Nov 2012 13:16:00 -0500 13637 2012-11-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1606small-1353417373.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-1677-editsmall-1353417373.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13628-the-big-country-little-big-country-and-everything-in-between-ryan-silven http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13628-the-big-country-little-big-country-and-everything-in-between-ryan-silven I've never been one for sitting still. Staying in one place bores me, makes me antsy. I'm never content to just climb in the gym waiting for the next big trip. Every opportunity I have I want to be out climbing, exploring, brushing, hiking, driving, MOVING. The itch to move was especially strong this October. I finally got the opportunity to check out a new, amazing area that my friends, Jamie Emerson, Collin Horvat, and Jesse Brown, had been raving about and traveling to: Devil's Kitchen. The Kitchen lies smack dab in the middle of Wyoming's Big Country and... ]]> Fri, 16 Nov 2012 05:56:00 -0500 13628 2012-11-16 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bigcountry2-1353045414.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bigcountry1-1353045414.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13623-pan-american-games-2012-francesca-metcalf http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13623-pan-american-games-2012-francesca-metcalf I just got back to the USA from spending a few days in San Juan de los Morros in Venezuela for the Adult Pan-American Games. I had a great time- Venezuela was definitely a crazy new experience for me. The town was apparently pretty dangerous- especially for Americans- so I wasn't able to do much sightseeing, but the hotel and competition area were enough of a culture shock for me. No one spoke any English- which was expected, and I was excited to practice my Spanish- but also, no one understood my American accent, so it was extremely difficult... ]]> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 05:32:00 -0500 13623 2012-11-13 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_photo-2-1352784743.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_image-5-1352784743.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_image-2-1352784743.jpeg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13614-the-all-colored-colorless-white-jamie-emerson http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13614-the-all-colored-colorless-white-jamie-emerson Light drains itself from sky, and the world closes itself upon us. Mist hangs dark among the trees, their black trunks slumber in silence in the diaphanous murk. Fog creeps. Beyond our beams of electric light, flickers of darkness, black pug-faced bats flit and dart in the gloaming. There are unimaginable creatures of the wood. The imagined matted and furry smear of evolution gone awry hulks and sobs in the bowels of a dripping cave. My mind has liquified. We walk past the portent tracks of a puma, and my hearts beats heavy. ThumpThump. What brings us... ]]> Fri, 09 Nov 2012 03:15:00 -0500 13614 2012-11-09 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13614_untitled-1-1352479184.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13613-dark-horse-1-josh-levin http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13613-dark-horse-1-josh-levin Is the Dark Horse the most epic bouldering competition ever created? Absolutely. For the past couple years, I've been watching videos of bouldering competitions on the east coast, (namely Dark Horse and Heart of Steel) fantasizing about one day being able to travel out there to compete.Although the Heart of Steel has since been cancelled, the Dark Horse is still in full swing in New England, put on every year by head setters Josh Larson and Dave Wetmore. Watching the highlight reels made the events look insane - big dynos, drop-down moves, backwards mantles, swinging on non-climbing holds, you... ]]> Fri, 09 Nov 2012 02:45:00 -0500 13613 2012-11-09 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_p2-pinch-1352429109.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_rest-1352429110.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_preparing-for-dyno-1352429110.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dark-horse-1352429110.png http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_double-heel-1352429111.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_right-heel-1352429111.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_cross-1352429111.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13606-new-personal-blog-and-first-stop-tdb-rockheads-sebastien-lazure http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13606-new-personal-blog-and-first-stop-tdb-rockheads-sebastien-lazure Just came back from Toronto and the first TDB comp of the season! It was a super great comp! Props to Ayo, Dave and the crew for the routesetting! It was cool to get problems of different styles with a lot of technical stuff! I was entering Joe Rockhead’s facility with no expectations and surprised myself doing a very good qualifier. I was feeling good and my climbing flowed pretty well, which is good to give you confidence and keep you climb well through all of the 6 problems you have to complete. I finished the first... ]]> Tue, 06 Nov 2012 21:23:00 -0500 13606 2012-11-06 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_rubyphoto-joerh-1-1352236986.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13588-competition-season-emily-dudley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13588-competition-season-emily-dudley In September the ABS competition season started. I kicked off the year setting for a local competition at Miramont Lifestyle Fitness. As one of the route-setters I love comp season. ]]> Wed, 31 Oct 2012 03:24:00 -0400 13588 2012-10-31 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_crush-festa-1351653846.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dscn0914a-1351653846.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13585-comp-season-aicacia-young http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13585-comp-season-aicacia-young Comp season has officially begun! A couple weeks ago, I participated in a bouldering and sport climbing comp at UTSA. It’s a fairly small gym, but one of the walls is 54 feet tall, so it’s a nice opportunity for some endurance training. They dedicated a whole week to climbing, calling it Climbapalooza. It was a 4-day competition with about 35 routes/problems, and a complimentary showing of Reel Rock 7 halfway through the week. It was an absolute blast, and I really surprised myself with some of the problems. I’m not exceptionally dynamic or capable of utilizing slopers, but... ]]> Sun, 28 Oct 2012 22:04:00 -0400 13585 2012-10-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_665236-4869316579427-1288210707-o-1351461885.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_133248-4869644947636-459600420-o-1351461886.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13582-portland-boulder-rally-riley-joyce http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13582-portland-boulder-rally-riley-joyce Waking you knowing you are going to have the time of your life. First stop was coffee. Then off to The Portland Boulder Rally; a local competition at the Circuit climbing gym in Portland Oregon. As a team member I hoped into the team bus to be greated by all my other teammates. We were all very excited about this competition. One, because it was the first competition of the season for us. Two, there were going to very well known climbers there that we can interact with. But most importantly, it sounded like it was... ]]> Sun, 28 Oct 2012 16:37:00 -0400 13582 2012-10-28 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_1-1351442273.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_2-1351442273.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_3-1351442273.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_4-1351442273.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13565-psychedelia-matt-lubar http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13565-psychedelia-matt-lubar Fall is here in Colorado. The leaves are changing and a chilly breeze inhabits the air. This can only mean one thing: Psychedelia is on it's way! For those of you who don't know, Psychedelia is The Spot Gym's annual halloween themed glow in the dark black light bouldering competition and the second of four comps in the Spot Bouldering Series. Every year The Spot replaces all the regular light bulbs with black lights and begins painting hundreds of holds with fluorescent paint. They also bring in a handful of people to create tape art. It's amazing what people... ]]> Wed, 24 Oct 2012 04:25:00 -0400 13565 2012-10-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_spot-psychadelia-1351052750.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_psychadelia-3-1351052750.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13541-growing-up-alex-fritz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13541-growing-up-alex-fritz September and October have been busy months for me! Back in September I competed in the Unified Bouldering Championships competition at Stone Gardens here in my city of Seattle. It was such an exciting step up for the PNW competition scene to be able to host such a high level competition, and an exciting step up for me to be able to compete in it! I was incredibly stoked going into the competition because I finally felt like I was ready to do it. After all the years of competing in youth and never venturing out into the adult... ]]> Sun, 14 Oct 2012 22:16:00 -0400 13541 2012-10-14 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0147-1350253001.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0162-1350253003.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0261-1350253004.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_fritzbeaupbr-1350253005.jpg