http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14011-a-tale-of-a-finger-hueco-and-abs-mirko-caballero http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14011-a-tale-of-a-finger-hueco-and-abs-mirko-caballero Packing for Hueco was, to say the least, a little stressful for me. Not knowing whether or not I could climb or not… Would I be able to compete at Nationals the following week? Even if I did, would I have a chance to win? Ok, let's rewind a little... ]]> Wed, 10 Apr 2013 07:25:00 -0400 14011 2013-04-10 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0032-1365578711.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0448-1365578712.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0226-1365578712.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0459-1365578713.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0247-1365578713.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0473-1365578713.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0351-1365578714.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13942-abs-14-youth-nationals-greig-seitz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13942-abs-14-youth-nationals-greig-seitz Last weekend I competed in my first ABS national competition. This was the first national bouldering competition I had attended. Going into this competition, I knew that it would be a great experience. I also learned about what I need to improve for next year. The qualifying round as well as semi-finals went fairly well. I was trying to conserve as much energy as I could. This strategy seemed to work since I made finals with plenty of skin and energy. The finals problems were amazing. The first boulder problem was a technical slab climb. Every hold... ]]> Fri, 08 Mar 2013 18:38:00 -0500 13942 2013-03-08 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0013-1362767914.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0032-1362767916.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0012-1362767917.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0062-1362767919.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13925-keeping-it-going-in-2013 http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13925-keeping-it-going-in-2013 Well, my bouldering season has ended (sort of) but on so many high notes and with much more potential to achieve. The last day of my Hueco vacation in January produced a flash of Rubber Chicken aka Van Dame (V10), bringing the trip damage to two V11’s and six V10’s over the course of three weeks. I took a break for another couple of weeks before returning to Texas for the Hueco Rock Rodeo, and then geared myself up for ABS Nationals the weekend after! ]]> Fri, 01 Mar 2013 19:45:00 -0500 13925 2013-03-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_five-ten-blog-pic-1-1362167158.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_five-ten-blog-pic-4-1362167158.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_five-ten-blog-pic-2-1362167158.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_five-ten-blog-pic-5-1362167158.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_five-ten-blog-pic-3-1362167158.jpeg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13920-abs-14-open-nationals-nicholas-milburn http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13920-abs-14-open-nationals-nicholas-milburn ABS Open Nationals came to an exciting close this past weekend!!! Congratulations to Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio for an impressive win once again. This was my second adult competition. Last year I barely missed qualifying for semifinals in 22nd place. This time I knew I had it in me to make it to semi’s, but I always shoot for finals!!! Anyway, first off was qualifiers. I climbed about midway through the pack which turned out a great thing. Colin Bauer and I were chair buddies which was fun. I ended up sending four of the five... ]]> Tue, 26 Feb 2013 20:00:00 -0500 13920 2013-02-26 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nats-1-of-16-1361908823.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nats-12-of-16-1361908823.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nats-3-of-16-1361908823.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nats-5-of-16-1361908823.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nats-8-of-16-1361908824.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13914-janfeb-2013-climbing-the-rising-sport-will-roderick http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13914-janfeb-2013-climbing-the-rising-sport-will-roderick ABS 14 open nationals was this weekend, and the whole event was very well organized and a lot of fun! In qualifiers, I flashed the first two climbs – both were fairly straightforward and gymnastic. I had a bit more trouble with the next two – there was a big move on the third one, which I tried to static, and in hindsight I probably should have just gone for it. The fourth climb was a technical problem, on which I got about halfway. When I turned to face the last qualifier, I found that it was essentially what... ]]> Mon, 25 Feb 2013 00:14:00 -0500 13914 2013-02-25 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_will-roderick-stanford-daily-1361751273.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_will-roderick-nationals-2013-1361751274.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_will-roderick-abs-nationals-2013-1361751275.jpeg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13909-abs-14-national-qualifiers-alex-fritz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13909-abs-14-national-qualifiers-alex-fritz The Qualification round for the ABS14 Adult Nationals was yesterday. I went out first in the running order which I believe gave me a bit of an advantage over some other competitors because all of the holds were freshly chalked and had not been climbed yet. After a slow warm up period on possible the coolest warm-up area ever (CityRock expanded and had 5 brand new systems boards), I went out and climbed at my first ever ABS Adult Nationals!The first problem was a pretty chill and extremely fun slab route. Starting out on the arete, you worked your... ]]> Sat, 23 Feb 2013 23:53:00 -0500 13909 2013-02-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3215-1361663627.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3026-1361663629.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13907-competition-nutrition-abs-nationals-14-aicacia-young http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13907-competition-nutrition-abs-nationals-14-aicacia-young Although bouldering is a high-intensity power sport, bouldering competitions often also require a great deal of endurance. For this reason, it’s best to prepare for bouldering comps the same way you would for a marathon or triathlon, via carbohydrate loading. The main things to consider before any sporting event are what to eat before, during and after exercise. ]]> Thu, 21 Feb 2013 21:17:00 -0500 13907 2013-02-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-20120523-101654-1361481435.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13793-2013-goals-alex-fritz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13793-2013-goals-alex-fritz 2013 is a new year which means new goals for climbing! I have a lot of hopeful plans for this year and I am excited to see how they unfold. Next month I am headed to Colorado Springs for the ABS Open Nationals, where I will be in both Colorado Springs and Boulder for about a week each. This is my first adult bouldering nationals and I am very excited to see how I do! My goal for the event is Top 16 or to make Semi-Finals! Lately I've been working full time coaching... ]]> Fri, 01 Feb 2013 05:56:00 -0500 13793 2013-02-01 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-20121207-162408-1359698165.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-20121213-144348-1359698165.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13764-bend-endurance-academy-climbers-advance-to-abs-youth-nationals http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13764-bend-endurance-academy-climbers-advance-to-abs-youth-nationals Bend Endurance Academy climbers Walker Davis and Tristan Helmich  both qualified to compete at the American Bouldering Series Youth National Championships to be held in March in Colorado Springs, CO.  ]]> Tue, 15 Jan 2013 21:25:00 -0500 13764 2013-01-15 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13764_img-0284-1358895684.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13294-abs-season-just-around-the-corner-riley-joyce http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13294-abs-season-just-around-the-corner-riley-joyce Getting ready for that time of year again. What time is it? ABS season just around the corner! This year I am feeling more existed then ever! I am not to sure why, but no need it question it, its a great feeling! I am trying to get into the climbing gym at least 3 times a week to begin the season ready to crush! To train for ABS season its not only climbing, I also take a few runs each week with and additional I do arial silks once a week. These are great exercises... ]]> Mon, 23 Jul 2012 16:22:00 -0400 13294 2012-07-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-5930-1343060560.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-5994-1343060561.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12820-abs-nationals-joseph-gifford http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12820-abs-nationals-joseph-gifford I recently competed in ABS nationals both youth and adult. They were both super fun and I had a great time climbing the routes that were set for both competitions.First I competed in adult ABS, The routes were difficult but really cool. I completed two out of the five routs in qualifiers, my first climb was a slabby route that wasn’t too hard and I flashed it, the second was a slopery ball hold climb. I got to the top of the climb and just popped off because I got way too exhausted, the third climb was really crimpy... ]]> Wed, 04 Apr 2012 23:12:00 -0400 12820 2012-04-04 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_422726-3540949762994-1249945189-33593731-287462593-n-1333581146.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_431549-3540949482987-1249945189-33593730-769969855-n-1333581146.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_424166-3540928762469-1249945189-33593688-346619793-n-1333581146.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_417622-3104841212777-1016652802-3001660-721068456-n-1333581146.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_429725-3540947202930-1249945189-33593726-2038519211-n-1333581147.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12775-abs-nationals-adventures-francesca-metcalf http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12775-abs-nationals-adventures-francesca-metcalf ABS Nationals this year were a bit more hectic than I am used to. It was a great and fun competition as always, but things just didn’t go as well for me as I would have liked. It started out Thursday night. I had a big biology test that I could not miss that ended at seven, so I booked a flight to Denver that left at nine. With that short of a time to catch my plane, even if things went smoothly, it was going to be close. The test took the full hour, and we started late,... ]]> Fri, 23 Mar 2012 15:53:00 -0400 12775 2012-03-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_100-1476-2-1332518022.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12765-youth-bouldering-nationals-2012-francesca-metcalf http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12765-youth-bouldering-nationals-2012-francesca-metcalf My last Youth Bouldering Nationals were held a few weeks ago, and I have to say that I am so sad it’s over. I’ve looked forward to going to this competition every year since I was 11. It’s pretty sad, and a little scary, saying goodbye to that stage of my life. ]]> Wed, 21 Mar 2012 15:53:00 -0400 12765 2012-03-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nats-1332345226.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12756-abs-nationals-2012-michaela-kiersch http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12756-abs-nationals-2012-michaela-kiersch I'm a little late on the update, ABS Nationals was a little more than 2 weeks ago. I was really psyched to compete at this competition and to see all of my great friends in USAC. The qualifying round was interesting for me. I woke up early that morning, due to nerves and excitement; but because of this, I was left anxiously waiting around the lobby until I could finally head over to ISO. After a good warm up, it was my turn to climb. The first two problems went really well, I flashed both of... ]]> Tue, 20 Mar 2012 01:54:00 -0400 12756 2012-03-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_64987-2640797193824-1672394256-1631216-1565965881-n-1332208469.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_423853-10150593716103994-622023993-9065456-785245428-n-1332208469.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_429190-10150826028161102-788821101-12271914-1158592041-n-1332208469.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12743-2012-abs-youth-national-championships-mike-rougeux http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12743-2012-abs-youth-national-championships-mike-rougeux It's been over a week since the 2012 ABS 13 Youth National Championships in Colorado Springs so it's probably a good time to post something about it. This was the fourth ABS Nationals that I've coached at and I can say hands down it was the best one yet! For the second year in a row we had really nice comp style walls and I'm happy to see the events being held in bigger non-climbing gym venues. This years walls were built by our hometown companyEntreprises. The walls looked great and I'm still digging the inclusion of slab in... ]]> Fri, 16 Mar 2012 01:12:00 -0400 12743 2012-03-16 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_wall-shot-1331860354.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_lukas-2012abs-nats-photo-bob-1331860354.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_abs13-us-team-photo-bob-1331860354.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12740-2012-abs13-youth-national-championships-alex-fritz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12740-2012-abs13-youth-national-championships-alex-fritz Two weekends ago was the 2012 ABS13 Youth National Championships. I headed to Colorado Springs with Sidney, Chris, and Di for the competition that concludes this last bouldering season. I was really excited for this competition because this is the first year that I had fun training bouldering and felt good, too. It sounds bad to say that I've never felt good because I've placed well the last few years, but I've never felt like I was climbing my best. Because of this, I would go to nationals just hoping that I climbed my best, which should be everyone's... ]]> Thu, 15 Mar 2012 04:56:00 -0400 12740 2012-03-15 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12740_podium-1332194181.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12740_quali4-1332194181.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12740_semi2-1332194181.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12722-2012-abs-13-youth-boudering-nationals-mirko-caballero http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12722-2012-abs-13-youth-boudering-nationals-mirko-caballero This past weekend I participated in the 2012 USAC ABS 13 Youth Bouldering National Championships. My Dad had to work in Colorado all week, so my Mom and I traveled with him. On Tuesday I went to train at the Movement gym in Boulder, and we met Lynn Hill. We talked for a while, and then she bouldered with me. It was just awesome meeting her, and Lynn was really nice! I also met Matty Hong and Jamie Emerson. Wednesday I trained for a couple of hours with Justen Sjong, who gave me lots of good advice, and Thursday... ]]> Sun, 11 Mar 2012 03:06:00 -0400 12722 2012-03-11 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_36558068-abs12-04-111954-1331435160.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-5902-1331435162.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_national-champion-1331435162.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_zero-gravity-1331435163.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_usa-team-1331435164.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12710-abs-13-youth-nationals-noah-ridge http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12710-abs-13-youth-nationals-noah-ridge I just got back from ABS youth nationals in Colorado springs, I had a blast at this comp. I placed 7th at the competition, this was a great improvement over my 17th place at ABS nationals last year but I’m not super happy with my result since I think I climbed pretty poorly in finals, but this is just more motivation to start training hard for the next comp. The format of the comp was a 4 problem qualifier on the first day and then a 3 problem semi -final and final on the second and... ]]> Thu, 08 Mar 2012 00:38:00 -0500 12710 2012-03-08 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0343-1331167088.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-0671-1331167089.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_one-inch-pinch-1331167090.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12706-youth-nationals-and-training-sierra-carroll http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12706-youth-nationals-and-training-sierra-carroll Just finished a good training session at the Boulder Rock Club today after taking a week to rest as a result of being in so much pain following the ABS Nationals Citizen Competition a week ago. I had a good time training on some of the problems that were new for me at the Boulder Rock Club as well as finishing some other problem I had been working on over the past few weeks. Two Sunday's ago I decided last minute that I thought my shoulder was feeling well enough for me to compete at CityRock for the citizens... ]]> Wed, 07 Mar 2012 07:04:00 -0500 12706 2012-03-07 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_abs-nationals-venue-1331103865.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12705-abs-13-national-michael-bautista http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/12705-abs-13-national-michael-bautista This past weekend I competed at the ABS 13 Adult National Championships in Colorado Springs. It’s been two years since I’ve competed at ABS Nationals. The day after sending my project, The Buttermilker, I decided to buy my plane ticket and register for the comp that was only two weeks away. During this time I trained weekdays at my home gym, Rock City, and trained in Bishop on the weekend in between. While in Bishop I attempted many hard boulder problems back to back to replicate a bouldering competition. Check out some of the sends that weekend on video... ]]> Wed, 07 Mar 2012 03:33:00 -0500 12705 2012-03-07 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_scott-neel-1331091206.jpg