I just arrived in the States after a three week stint in South America. There were two plans layed out for this trip, the first being the 10th annual Petzl Roc Trip. I was fortunate enough to have been part of developing the Piedra Parada for the event back in March. I joined a small group from Petzl and others from Argentina to discover, bolt and clean new lines in the various rock formations that surround the Piedra. That first trip, even though not my first visit to South America, taught me a lot about myself and the unique...

Well, we've climbed in the majestic Red River Gorge for almost two weeks now and my first impressions have only been superseded. The wonderful change of the leaves from vibrant greens to deep reds, yellows and oranges is a sight I had yet to see and is almost as impressive as the climbing.As far as the climbing goes, it goes well. I have sampled numerous rigs from the famous Mother Load to smaller cliffs like the Gold Coast, Bob Marley, Drive By and The Dark Side. Some of the nicer rigs that stand out are black...

The Red River Gorge has been looming in my mind for years now. I got my first guide book to the gorge probably 6 years ago for Christmas and since then I have scoured every page religiously but still, resisted a trip. It wasn't intentional, however, after being here for about a week now its crazy to think I haven't climbed here before! We started out at The Motherload, perhaps on of the most famous cliffs in the Red. Naturally, we began on the right side (under tow wall) and started making our way left. ...

Last March Jamie Emerson and I were invited to conduct the initial route setting at new climbing gym in St. Louis. David Chancellor, along with a group of talented partners teamed up to create what I like to call an interactive art project. Climb Soill is, in my opinion in a league of its own when it comes to climbing facilities. The colors are vibrant, the building is rustic on the outside, a skeleton of an old power plant, yet the gym inside is clean. When we first entered, I felt like a young child,...

Last weekend I was in Irvine, California to participate in the first competition at the new Aesthetic Climbing Gym in Lake Forest. I was asked to participate in this event by a great team of organizers about a month ago and decided that it would be well worth the trip. The event took place on Sunday, the grand opening of the gym itself. There would be two rounds, a semi final in the morning (which ended up to more a qualifier) and a finals round in the evening beginning at 5 p.m. I was fresh...

This is sort of a double take but it didn't make sense to post more than one, right!? Lung Fish is a legend route for Rifle. Its know for its intense bouldery sequences on bullet white limestone. It stood the test of time and was even upgraded since the first ascent by Utah climber Jeff Webb. In 2011 Joe Kinder bolted a climbed a direct start which tacks in a dynamic 7C boulder start into the original crux. Last weekend I took a trip out to Rifle with the Movement youth climbing team. Coaching has recently become...