http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/images/stories/NewBox_black.png http://fiveten.com/ http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13922-the-sads-make-me-happy-seth-rogers http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13922-the-sads-make-me-happy-seth-rogers My Zero Gravity buddies and I took a couple of trips to Bishop over the last month. On Presidents Weekend, we camped at a place called Pleasant Valley Campgrounds, because the Pit was full. Luckily, it was much warmer than the time before when we camped and climbed in the snow. We found some really fun problems to climb, mostly in the Sads.We started in the Happys where I finally got Son of Claudius Rufus (V5). It's a fun traverse with a mantel finish. Most climbers prefer the Happys or the Buttermilks, but my... ]]> Wed, 27 Feb 2013 09:18:00 -0500 13922 2013-02-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_climbing-1361956713.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_sleeping-1361956714.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_group-1361956716.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_pensive-1361956717.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_shirt-1361956719.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13921-checking-out-awesome-new-bouldering-gym-dogpatch-seth-rogers http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13921-checking-out-awesome-new-bouldering-gym-dogpatch-seth-rogers Last week my Zero Gravity teammates and I had the opportunity to go to DogPatch Boulders for a team-only open house. DogPatch is located in San Francisco in the Dog Patch neighborhood. It is a brand new bouldering gym that is not yet open to the public. When I first got there, my breath was taken away. The gym was massive in size, and the walls were 18 feet high with lots of fun angles!! Every time any of us climbed, we made sure we had a spotter. We got to climb for around 3 hours, and... ]]> Wed, 27 Feb 2013 07:47:00 -0500 13921 2013-02-27 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_team-dogpatch-1361951250.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_seth-1-1361951250.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_seth-hanging-1361951251.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13920-abs-14-open-nationals-nicholas-milburn http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13920-abs-14-open-nationals-nicholas-milburn ABS Open Nationals came to an exciting close this past weekend!!! Congratulations to Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio for an impressive win once again. This was my second adult competition. Last year I barely missed qualifying for semifinals in 22nd place. This time I knew I had it in me to make it to semi’s, but I always shoot for finals!!! Anyway, first off was qualifiers. I climbed about midway through the pack which turned out a great thing. Colin Bauer and I were chair buddies which was fun. I ended up sending four of the five... ]]> Tue, 26 Feb 2013 20:00:00 -0500 13920 2013-02-26 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nats-1-of-16-1361908823.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nats-12-of-16-1361908823.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nats-3-of-16-1361908823.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nats-5-of-16-1361908823.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_nats-8-of-16-1361908824.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13919-abs-national-2013-isabelle-faus http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13919-abs-national-2013-isabelle-faus This past weekend was ABS Nationals in Colorado Springs. It was held in the same venue as last year, and this being my first time competing in the city auditorium, i thought it was amazing. Having City Rock Climbing Gym right next door was huge perk, because it gave the competitors a nice place to warm up. I flew out of Boston on Thursday afternoon, and arrived in the Springs around midnight the night before the comp. ]]> Tue, 26 Feb 2013 17:11:00 -0500 13919 2013-02-26 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_559890-506408946071482-1363884834-n-1361898686.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_13921-4479914601507-1569441791-n-1361898687.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_577140-506408939404816-493413443-n-1361898687.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-2227-1361898687.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_482321-506409979404712-1173242416-n-1361898687.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_307422-4479915081519-1178207633-n-1361898687.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_31455-506408249404885-1145284531-n-1361898687.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13918-weather-or-not-tim-rose http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13918-weather-or-not-tim-rose Sunday was supposed to be sunny, 48, blue bird and it was at 8am. I left MD early to blue skies, 50-degree temperatures and only grabbed my jacket to be safe. Our plan was to make the 4hr drive west to check out Coles cove. The temperature gauge in Brian’s car doesn’t work exactly, but it does measure some form of temperature, even if it’s not the temperature outside. The closer we got to our destination the lower the temperature was dropping. 30, 20, 18, 13, and finally stopped somewhere around 8. We... ]]> Tue, 26 Feb 2013 16:09:00 -0500 13918 2013-02-26 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_screen-shot-small-1361894951.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_screen-small-2-1361894951.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13917-edyta-ropek-will-start-at-the-2013-world-games http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13917-edyta-ropek-will-start-at-the-2013-world-games Edyta Ropek, athlete supported by Five Ten, will take part in prestigious World Games competitions, which will take place in late July and early August in Cali, Colombia. Champion of speed climbing is awarded a qualification from the International Federation of Sport Climbing.  ]]> Mon, 25 Feb 2013 20:07:00 -0500 13917 2013-02-25 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20130225-01-1361822842.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20130225-02-1361822843.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_20130225-03-1361822843.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13916-training-and-desert-towers-mayan-smith-gobat http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13916-training-and-desert-towers-mayan-smith-gobat Living in a true winter this year has made me realize how much I really do dislike the cold... It was snowy, with daytime temperatures well below freezing for almost a month straight. I struggled with short days, very little sunshine and it simply being too cold to go play outdoors. This made me realize how much I love and how much my general happiness depends on being outside in nature. However, the positive aspect of this was that it really forced me to focus on training and spend time climbing at the gym, which I know is... ]]> Mon, 25 Feb 2013 19:06:00 -0500 13916 2013-02-25 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13916_img-0193-1361989910.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13916_img-0190-1361989910.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13916_img-0186-1361989911.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13916_img-0181-1361989911.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/13916_img-0173-1361989911.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13915-new-areas-new-experiences-nick-bradley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13915-new-areas-new-experiences-nick-bradley Recently I went out to some nice boulders out in Mount Tamalpais, that have been long overlooked due to a more popular climbing area right of the beach about 10 minutes farther down the mountain. The boulders at Mount Tam are of surprisingly good quality, with many bulges and blocky pinches everywhere. A lot like a sport climbing area called Jailhouse up in the Table Mountains, the problems have tricky and complex sequences that make it hard to do each quickly. I was psyched to go to a new area and try out all the nicest lines there, as... ]]> Mon, 25 Feb 2013 05:32:00 -0500 13915 2013-02-25 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_photo1-1361770336.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13914-janfeb-2013-climbing-the-rising-sport-will-roderick http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13914-janfeb-2013-climbing-the-rising-sport-will-roderick ABS 14 open nationals was this weekend, and the whole event was very well organized and a lot of fun! In qualifiers, I flashed the first two climbs – both were fairly straightforward and gymnastic. I had a bit more trouble with the next two – there was a big move on the third one, which I tried to static, and in hindsight I probably should have just gone for it. The fourth climb was a technical problem, on which I got about halfway. When I turned to face the last qualifier, I found that it was essentially what... ]]> Mon, 25 Feb 2013 00:14:00 -0500 13914 2013-02-25 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_will-roderick-stanford-daily-1361751273.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_will-roderick-nationals-2013-1361751274.jpeg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_will-roderick-abs-nationals-2013-1361751275.jpeg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13913-winter-in-the-northeast-zoe-steinberg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13913-winter-in-the-northeast-zoe-steinberg I think that the best part of the past month has been the combination of the amount of snow that New Jersey has gotten and how fast it has melted. It’s enough that I have not had a full week of school since early January, but then in the next day or two after it hits like 60 degrees outside, so the snow all melts before it gets nasty and gray from all the smog. This has gone on in a cycle for about five solid weeks, and it means more time off school to get to... ]]> Mon, 25 Feb 2013 00:01:00 -0500 13913 2013-02-25 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_45730-10151427989562768-1590372317-n-1361750484.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_climbing-47-the-edge-1361750484.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_65202-10151427989537768-11205726-n-1361750484.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_climbing-45-the-edge-1361750484.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_climbing-46-the-edge-1361750485.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13910-life-is-better-with-climbing-2-markus-eder http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13910-life-is-better-with-climbing-2-markus-eder The last two month my focus switched from rock climbing to skiing due to the coverage of my beloved rocks with the powder, which came in perfectly timed intervals, and buried the thoughts of my climbing projects. So powder instead of rock was the program. The past few years I couldn’t imagine making a longer break from climbing. This year it wasn’t that hard, maybe because of the long and very intense road trip and the incredible send of the ‘Balkonprojekt’ in autum. This winter I got addicted by the feeling of flying down a mountain in the finest... ]]> Sun, 24 Feb 2013 09:27:00 -0500 13910 2013-02-24 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc03419-1361698024.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_pluto2-1361698025.jpeg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13909-abs-14-national-qualifiers-alex-fritz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13909-abs-14-national-qualifiers-alex-fritz The Qualification round for the ABS14 Adult Nationals was yesterday. I went out first in the running order which I believe gave me a bit of an advantage over some other competitors because all of the holds were freshly chalked and had not been climbed yet. After a slow warm up period on possible the coolest warm-up area ever (CityRock expanded and had 5 brand new systems boards), I went out and climbed at my first ever ABS Adult Nationals!The first problem was a pretty chill and extremely fun slab route. Starting out on the arete, you worked your... ]]> Sat, 23 Feb 2013 23:53:00 -0500 13909 2013-02-23 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3215-1361663627.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-3026-1361663629.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13908-rope-season-nick-bradley http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13908-rope-season-nick-bradley The best part of the year is back: Rope season. It's finally time to start training for sport to get out to this year's IFSC World Youth Championships. This year should be good because last year was such an improvement, and I'm a lot more motivated to take back my National Champion title. This year I have decided to take more effort in trying actual routes at local crags, and hop on some 14's whether they look possible or not, just to help with sequencing on harder routes. A local crag called Jailhouse is about 2 hours away from... ]]> Fri, 22 Feb 2013 06:51:00 -0500 13908 2013-02-22 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_665639-435922116464281-1718176446-o-1361515867.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13907-competition-nutrition-abs-nationals-14-aicacia-young http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13907-competition-nutrition-abs-nationals-14-aicacia-young Although bouldering is a high-intensity power sport, bouldering competitions often also require a great deal of endurance. For this reason, it’s best to prepare for bouldering comps the same way you would for a marathon or triathlon, via carbohydrate loading. The main things to consider before any sporting event are what to eat before, during and after exercise. ]]> Thu, 21 Feb 2013 21:17:00 -0500 13907 2013-02-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-20120523-101654-1361481435.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13906-not-crazy-just-pigtales-mariann-saether http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13906-not-crazy-just-pigtales-mariann-saether I just got asked again if I am crazy. I am not crazy. I was not born with big balls, I was born with no balls! I do not believe that anybody was born with a “tough”- gene. Everybody that run class five have all worked hard to gain confidence and to build courage. The truth is that nothing comes for free in this world. Not even big balls.What I have found in kayaking is an element in which I can play to such an extent that the fuzz of the world around me goes quiet. What you find... ]]> Thu, 21 Feb 2013 17:29:00 -0500 13906 2013-02-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_godafoss-1361467756.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_msblackwhite-1361467756.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_flip-1361467758.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_mariannhopp-1361467759.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13905-bernd-zangerl-same-samebut-different http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13905-bernd-zangerl-same-samebut-different Wanderlust… it is a strange concept. The desire to discover the unknown Same, same....but different Wanderlust… it is a strange concept. The desire to discover the unknown… far away places…What is this? It is an attraction to distant, random places on our Planet. This is an emotion that I am very familiar with. Yet, I am on the search for something very specific in these distant places. Maybe it is my inquisitive nature that is the catalyst to this desire. I am repeatedly pushed to these wonderful and alluring places. What am I really searching... ]]> Thu, 21 Feb 2013 14:14:00 -0500 13905 2013-02-21 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_rd-120923-bzi-009348-1361456051.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_rd-120903-bzi-000389-1-1361456051.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13904-fontana-winter-series-race-3-graeme-pitts http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13904-fontana-winter-series-race-3-graeme-pitts With a full San Diego riding tour before the Fontana Winter Series race #3, I had plenty of time to see the awesome trails around the area. Saturday practice went awesome, I got my lines dialed, tested my gear selection for The Wall and had more fun riding Fontana than should be allowed! Sunday morning started great with some solid practice and a nice warm up. My race run went great - I hit the top section clean and nailed The Wall as good as ever. In the end, I pulled off a 5th place.... ]]> Wed, 20 Feb 2013 06:25:00 -0500 13904 2013-02-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_podium-blog-5ten-1361341536.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_5ten-blog-post-2-1361341536.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13903-greig-seitz-climbs-bambi-8av12-greig-seitz http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13903-greig-seitz-climbs-bambi-8av12-greig-seitz Recently, I went up to Matthew’s Winter Park. The area up there has mainly two boulders; the Hillside Boulder and the Millennium Boulder. As I went up to this new area, I only had one boulder in mind. This boulder is called Bambi. Bambi is an amazing roof in Matthew’s Winter Park. This boulder consists of multiple big moves through a steep roof. The redpoint crux is a long move to a fairly shallow two finger pocket. After I climbed through the pocket, I climbed through a technical slab to top it out. I was super psyched... ]]> Wed, 20 Feb 2013 03:10:00 -0500 13903 2013-02-20 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bambi-v12-2-1361329844.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_bambi-v12-1-1361329844.jpg http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13902-getting-out-claire-bell http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13902-getting-out-claire-bell Wiley and Romany, my two children had birthdays this week. When Wiley turned 4 a few years ago I got a glimmer of how much easier going climbing as a family would be once the kids were older. Ro was still a baby then so we still had a few years to go before the fun could really start. We made it! Romany just turned 4 and Wiley 8. To celebrate we started with a birthday trip to Stone Fort and a quick gym session thrown in for me. Here's... ]]> Tue, 19 Feb 2013 18:40:00 -0500 13902 2013-02-19 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc01648-1361299208.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-2139-1361299209.jpg http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc01584-1361299211.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc01640-1361299211.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc01604-1361299212.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc01663-1361299213.JPG http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_img-2113-1361299214.JPG http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13901-second-8c-andrea-cartas http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/13901-second-8c-andrea-cartas Was so nice... the wind was cold, temperature was perfect, the sun coming down...and I flew on this route, like warming up...so easy...I love this feeling!! I've fallen in the last crux many times, six times exactly, but this time, my mind was relaxed and I did the crux like floating... Few minutes after, Adam Ondra sends his proyect, La Dura Dura, so easy too. Nice job Dud!! We were having dinner in a Restaurant in Oliana, with a lot of wine and good friends. Great week after this, sending very fast nice routes like... ]]> Mon, 18 Feb 2013 17:36:00 -0500 13901 2013-02-18 http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/_dsc-0195-1361208978.jpg