(Click on image to enlarge)He's done it! Gabriele Moroni has climbed Action Direct, the route which perhaps more than any other represents the dream and the non-plus-ultra of sport climbing. The 23 year old from Novara in Northern Italy managed to send this fierce sequence of monodoigts and two-finger pockets in Germany's Frankenjura on 17 April after having courted it (if this is the right definition) since 2008.
With all my required USAC competitions to compete at Regionals, I have about a month until comp date. This last week was Spring Break for me, meaning lots and lots of climbing. I went to Smith, spent a lot of time setting in the gym, and sent my hardest sport route to date – along with some other various hard boulder problems. I plan on as much time as possible outside until then, and even more this summer.
For my spring break, March 30th – April 4th, my buddy, Eric Monson, and I cruised on down to the Red River Gorge. We arrived Tuesday the 30th of March around 5 o’clock. Since we had some time to kill, we decided to go to Drive by Craig. I hopped on the classic Ro-Shampo 5.12a. The next day, Wednesday, I headed on over to The Gallery. I warmed up on Mosaic 5.12c, a very cool route, and then went over to Calm like a Bomb 5.13b, which I on sighted. It was a...
"I have just arrived spontaneously in Bishop California, the cause..... work, and as always some climbing as well. I've been out here already for 4 days slowly building skin, power and technique for bouldering. I always forget why Bishop is such an amazing place aside from the great climbing, the people, town and surroundings never fail to impress me, not to mention the delicious pastries from Schats bakery!
The Future of Climbing… in Atlanta? In the past five years I’ve traveled to a lot of climbing walls in North America… over two hundred of them. So, I’ve seen all kinds of gyms – from old school wood walls to the newest generation of monster gyms. I’ve worked around the US as a commercial routesetter, spent weeks living in climbing wall angles creating routes for competitions, and often spend a day or two each month instructing routesetting clinics to new and experienced setters alike.
Just got back today from the Pan Am Championships in Guatemala. I crashed twice and beat up my equiptment, while finishing a disappointing 31st. I did gain enough UCI points to race World Cups in 2010 so at least that is taken care of.