Well, I do not have any exciting news this time… It has been a frustrating couple of weeks for me. All my preparations have been made, I know the pitches, the gear necessary and have stashed water for an ascent, yet unfortunately I have been lacking two vital things: a good enough weather and a climbing partner. There have been short windows of opportunity, and time when in retrospect I could maybe have climbed, but after my last experience I have been hesitant to start with a marginal forecast.
Yup, I've finally experienced my very first hiatus, my temporary separation from my rock, my girlfriend - climbing. The time spent away filled with hours and hours and hours of work stacked up like I never thought possible, with stress, with some mild success and namely excitement - and at times, of course, disappointment. My life realized as a physician in-training. What's worse? A separation would not be complete if not both physical and mental. I lost some desire to climb.
Check out this video of Five Ten sponsored athlete Adam Henry climbing at HorsePens 40 in the new Blackwing.
Between July and August 4 Portuguese climbers went to Pakistan to open new big wall routes in Charakusa Valley. During a year in which this country had the worst floods in the last 90 years, just reaching the mountain was a big adventure! Because of that they need to reorganize the expedition and open a new route in Karakorum.
After the bad weather hit Magic Wood, crushing my hopes of finishing off Practice of the Wild V15 (I’ve never been so close to a boulder, and not been able to finish it!), I was psyched to find a new project close to home. Cresciano provided the answer: The Dagger V14. I finished off The Dagger V14 today on my 3rd day of effort. So f***ing psyched! Very intense on the core and the toe-hooks.
Setting For The Best and Climbing With The Best: An Infinitely Complex World Seen From Both Sides of The Wall Over the past two months, I have had the opportunity to participate as both a route setter and competitor in the Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour. This professional climbing series—serving as one of the largest media platforms for competitive climbing and unparalleled production value in North America—has armed me with two powerful tools: perspective and humility.